my Lord Stanhope Letters from the Abbot, afterwards the Cardinal, du Bois, acquainting my Lord of Cardinal Alberoni's Difgrace. M. de Seiffan, who knew nothing of the Change that had been made at the Court of Madrid while he was buffeted and tofs'd about by the Winds and Waves, went in to my Lord Stanhope, and told him, That he was come to furrender himfelf his Prisoner, because he came from Spain without a Paffport, unless he wou'd receive the Carte blanche he brought him for Peace, inftead of fuch Paffport. At the fame time he produc'd to the English Minifter the Full Power which he had from Cardinal Alberoni to treat of a Peace. My Lord Stanhope did not interrupt him; but when he had done fpeaking, he ask'd him if it had been long fince he left Madrid: M. de Seiffan telling him all the Delays that had happen'd in his Voyage, my Lord gave him the Abbot Du Bois's Letter to read. The Envoy of Spain was Thunder-ftruck when he ready this Letter, and faid thereupon to my Lord, That he had nothing to fay to all this, and that he refign'd himfelf to his Difcretion, to deal with him as he thought fit. My Lord anfwer'd him very civilly, That he fhould be forry to abuse the Confidence he had repos'd in him, by coming to him without a Paffport, and that he would leave him at his Liberty to return to Spain: which he did accordingly, without Delay.

'Twas faid that Cardinal Alberoni was fo piqu'd against the King and Queen of Spain, that he ftudy'd Revenge; and that therefore as foon as he was got out of the Kingdom, he wrote to the Regent, to defire his Frotection, and to affure him, that if he would be fo good as to give him Shelter at Paris, he would let him

into the Detail of the moft fecret Affairs of the Spanish Court. I do not think that any Credit ought to be given to Reports of this Nature, invented for no other End but to blacken the Reputation of a Minister in Difgrace. Be this as it will, the Hiftory of thefe Times, whether True or Falfe, does Honour to the Regent; for they fay that this Prince rejected the Cardinal's Offers, and contented himself with fending him a Paffport, that he might go to Italy. I faw him actually arrive there: He landed in the Dominions of Genoa, where his Eminency, depending on the Public Faith, and upon the gracious Reception he had from the Republic, which fent a Deputation to meet him, thought himself perfectly fecure. But Fortune, who was in full Cry after him to run him down, was not content with his being difgrac'd by the King of Spain; for the Pope wrote to the Doge and Senate, demanding that the Cardinal might be arrested; which was no fooner faid than done. Thus, in lefs than two Months, this unfortunate Cardinal faw himself banifh'd from a Court where he was the Difpencer of Favours, pillag'd upon the Road, and depriv'd of all his Papers, in danger of being murder'd by the Miquelets, and at laft arrested in his own Country, where he arriv'd in Confidence that the Public Faith would have been his Safeguard. If any Events require Courage to fupport them, fuch as thefe do; but of this Virtue Cardinal Alberoni had an eminent Share, and I was always aftonifh'd to fee with what Intrepidity he behav'd in his Adverfity.

After I had ftay'd a while at Genoa, I went to Sarzana †, and from thence to PISA §, which + See Vol. II. p. 143. § Se: Vol. II p. 141.

is a City in the Dominions of Tuscany, with a University and an Archbishoprick, and was formerly a Republic of no finall Confequence in the Mediterranean, till it was conquer'd by the Dukes of Tuscany of the Family of the Medicis, who have ever fince remain'd Mafters of it. The City of Pifa has pompous Buildings: The Metropolitan Church call'd the Dome, is of admirable Beauty: "Tis built in the Gothic Order, and its Roof is fupported by 76 Marble Pillars: The Dome and Roof of the Choir are alfo painted in the Gothic Style. This great Church is hung all over with Crimson Velvet, adorn'd with broad Gold Lace: In this Church is a Chapel with a very magnificent Altar, the Antipendium of which, and the Tabernacle, are folid Silver of admirable Workmanship. Great Notice is alfo taken of the Gates of this Church, which are all of caft Iron, with very fine BaffoRelievo's upon them, reprefenting Historical Paffages of the old Old Teftament. Near this Church is the great Church-yard, which is encompafs'd with a Gallery, whofe Walls painted in Fresco represent the Hiftory of the City of Pifa. At a fmall Distance from this Churchyard is the Baptiftery, which is a Chapel built of a round Figure, in the Form of a Dome, fupported by Pillars of Oriental Granite, bigger and higher than ufual: The Pavement and Steps of the Altar are of very curious Stones inlaid in the Mofaic Manner; and the Preacher's Pulpit is an admirable Piece of Work of white Marble.

St. Stephen's Church is alfo worthy of the Attention of the curious Traveller, for its coftly Paintings, Gilding, Marble Statues, and particularly the rich Spoils taken from the Infidels. In this Church meets the Chapter of the Knights

of

of St. Stephen, which was inftituted by the Great Duke Cofmo I. Anno 1561, after he had obtain'd a Victory. The Knights of this Order must be Noble by four Defcents: They make a Vow of Conjugal Fidelity; and they wear a Red Cross. like the Crofs of Malta, which is faften'd to a Red Ribbon as the Golden Fleece is, and the Crofs is alfo embroider'd upon the Habit and Mantle. Without this Church, in the Square, is the Statue of the Great Duke Cofmo I. in Brass.

I carefully examin'd the famous Tower that leans to one Side: 'Tis round, and incompafs'd with white Marble Pillars that fupport the Galleries that run round it. I can fcarce believe that this Tower was built floping at firft, and am more apt to think it owing to fome violent Earthquake, which is a Misfortune very frequent in this Part of the World. They fay this Tower is 188 Foot in Height: There's an Afcent to the Platform or Terrafs, which is encompass'd with Banifters, by a Stair-cafe of 193 Steps.

The Country about Pifa is very pleasant: There's a Grove of Cyprefs at its Gates, whofe continual Verdure is delightful. You know, Madame, that at Pifa was concluded that famous Treaty between Alexander VII. and Lewis XIV. wherein the Satisfaction was fettled which the Holy Father was to give the King, for the Affront his Ambaffador the Duke of Crequy had receiv'd at Rome.

From Pifa I went in a Day to FLORENCE †, the Capital of Tuscany, and the ordinary Refidence of the Great Dukes. 'Tis call'd Florence

+ See Vol. I. p. 425. Vol. II. p. 130.
I 3

the

the Fair, and not without Reafon; for 'tis one of the largest and fineft Cities in Europe.

The Cathedral Church is a magnificent and moft fpacious Pile: The Outfide is fac'd all over with Marble of various Colours: The Infide contains immenfe Treafures, in Pictures, Statues, and other moft curious Pieces. Near the Cathe

dral is a Church commonly call'd the Chapel of the Baptiftery, which is alfo intirely fac'd with Marble. The Church of the Annunciade is another Structure in the high Stile; in every Part of which are ftately Paintings, Works in Gold, Brafs, &c. the whole of the utmost Delicacy: Yet notwithstanding the Richness of these Buildings, it may be faid without Aggravation, that they are trifling in Comparison with the ftately Church of St. Lawrence. 'Tis of a Hexagon Figure: In the Middle of every Front is a double Pilafter of Jafper, with a Chapiter of Brafs gilt, which fupports a Cornice and an Entablature of the fame, each Pilafter representing the Emblems of precious Stones. At the fix Angles there are fix Tombs of very coftly Marble, and over each a Cushion sprinkled with precious Stones, which fupports very rich Crowns plac'd at the Foot of the Statues of the Great Dukes: Thefe Statues, which are of Brafs gilt, and twice as big as the Life, are plac'd in Niches of black Marble. The Pedestals of the fix Tombs are overcaft with Porphyry and a fort of Agat call'd Chalcedony, on which are. infcrib'd, in Letters of Gold, the Epitaphs of the Princes whofe Bodies are therein contain'd. All the rest of the Wall is lin'd with the best Marble, and coftly Stones plac'd in Compartiments or Pannels, the Squares of which are of Brafs gilded: The High Altar is of Lapis Lazuli or

Azure