seems to have been transferred at once from the north of Italy to the banks of the Rhine; many of the buildings here display it in its utmost purity, and equal, if they do not surpass, in elegance of proportion and decorations, those of England and Normandy; such are The Apostles' church in the square called the Neumarkt, built about the year 1200. Its exterior is in the highest degree elegant; its numerous towers and semicircular projections group admirably, from whatever point it is seen;altogether it may be deemed a perfect specimen of the Romanesque style. Mr. Hope says it reminded him of some of the oldest Greek churches in Asia Minor, now converted into mosques; and on beholding the east end, he almost thought himself at Constantinople. St. Gereon's Kirche, another ossuary, as it is lined with the bones of the Theban Legion of Martyrs, slain, according to the legend, during the persecution by Diocletian, is one of the finest as well as the most ancient churches in Cologne; the circular portion, or rather the decagon, was not finished till 1227, but the crypt between it and the towers, and the walls of the choir above it, date from the x. century. The churches of St. Pantaleon, of St. Martin, and St. Cunibert, though they may be past over by the ordinary traveller, will highly interest the antiquary and student of Gothic architecture. St. Cunibert, finished 1248 (the year the Dom was begun), has an elegant portal, thrown down a few years ago by the fall of the tower. The tower is not destined to rise again. St. Pantaleon is, perhaps, the oldest Christian structure in Cologne, since the lower part of the great tower, and the walls connected with it, are probably not later than 980. It was built by Archbishop Bruno, with the materials of the Roman bridge, and Castle of Deutz. It is now used as a protestant place of worship, and its tower supports a telegraph. The tomb of Duns Scotus is in the Chapel of the Minorites. It is traditionally related that he was buried prematurely; and having awakened from his trance, burst out of his coffin, but failing in forcing his way out of the vault, was found, when it was opened some time afterwards, lying on the steps near the entry; the fingers of one hand were entirely gone, having been gnawed off, it is supposed, in the agonies of hunger. Albertus Magnus or De Groot, the alchemist and magician, was buried in the Church of the Dominicans, which is now removed, and an artillery barrack built in its place. The Museum contains a large collection of pictures, principally of the old German school, many of which have only their antiquity to recommend them. Among the more remarkable paintings may be mentioned the Last Judgment, by Master Stephan, of Cologne, (the angels are painted of the brightest ultra-marine by this master and others of the same school.) The Death of the Virgin, by Schoreel, and a Descent from the Cross, by Israel of Mechlen (1488). Also a Virgin and Child, and several others, by Master William, of Cologne. These pictures deserve some attention, however, as the monuments of a school of art, whose very existence was, in a manner, unknown till the commencement of the present century. We are now aware that in the xiv., xv., and xvi. centuries, simultaneously with the revival of painting in Italy, there sprung up a race of artists on the banks of the Rhine, and in the Netherlands, who, without borrowing from the Italians, without any assistance from ancient works of art, but by the study of nature alone, succeeded in raising the art of painting from the degradation into which it had fallen in the hands of the Byzantine painters, to a comparative state of excellence and maintained that peculiar style which they had formed for themselves, and which is seen in the greatest perfection in the works of Van Eyck, Hemling, and Schoreel. It was not till a later period that the painters of the school of the Netherlands began to imitate the works of the Italians. In order to appreciate thoroughly the works of the early German painters, it is necessary to see the Boisserèe Collection, now in the Munich Gallery, which was itself formed at Cologne. Among the pictures by modern artists, in the museum, particular attention may be invited to the Captive Jews at Babylon, by a young artist named Bendemann, " no less remarkable for the simple beauty of the composition, than for the depth and earnestness of feeling it expresses." theatre, provided with ball and reading rooms, where newspapers are taken in. The Regierungs Gebaude is also a handsome edifice. Eau de Cologne, so renowned all over the world, is an article of considerable commerce for the city. There are 24 manufacturers, and several who bear the same name, but the original Jean Marie Farina, the rightful heir of the inventor, the best fabricator of Eau de Cologne, is to be found at No. 23, Jülichs Platz. N. Β. A duty of 1s. a bottle is charged in England. The value of this manufacture cannot fail to be appreciated on the spot. One of the peculiarities of Cologne, its filthiness, will not long escape the attention, or the nose, of the stranger; it occasioned the following verses of Coleridge : Ye nymphs, who reign o'er sewers and sinks, In the lower story are many Roman antiquities, some of which are curious as having been found in or near Cologne; besides these are several busts and statues, and one specimen of sculpture, distinguished as a work of Grecian art, of great beauty and value-it is the Head of Medusa. It is larger, and is said to be even Cologne abounds in historical asfiner, than the famous Medusa Ron-sociations. The Romans have left ther Germanicus; Trajan here received the summons to assume the Imperial purple; Vitellius and Sylvanus were proclaimed Emperors of Rome on the spot, and the latter was murdered in the Capitol. At a later period, 508, Clovis was declared king of the Franks, at Cologne. During the middle ages, Cologne was the most flourishing city of Northern Europe, one of the chief emporiums of the Hanseatic League, concentrating all the trade of the East, and maintaining a direct and constant communication with Italy. From this connection, not only the productions, but also the arts, of the East, were at once transferred to the then remote West of Europe. The architecture of many of the oldest churches is identical with that of Italy, and there is some similarity between the paintings of the early Italian and Rhenish schools; it is even probable that the southern school of art was indebted to the artists of the North for some portion of its excellence. Another relic of the ancient alliance with Italy is the Carnival, which is celebrated here, and nowhere else in the North of danini. It formed part of the collection of Professor Wallraff, who bequeathed it, with the larger portion of the pictures now in this museum, to his native city. Those who take interest in the arts will find, on inquiry, many private collections of pictures here; they are, however, for the most part, limited to works of the old German masters. The Rathhaus (town-hall) is a curious old building; it was erected at different periods; the Gothic tower containing the Archives, in 1414-the portal or double arcade, in the Italian style, in 1571. The Hanse Saal, in which the Council of magistrates was held, is a splendid and interesting apartment. In another ancient edifice, the Kaufhaus, or Gürzenich, finished in 1474, several Diets of the Empire were held. It has a remarkably fine Gothic fireplace. The Casino is a handsome new building, near the The river Rhine, it is well known, traces of their possession of this city of the Ubii, not only in various fragments of edifices still remaining - as in the very perfect Roman Tower, originally part of the outer defences, though now far within the city, and in the numerous altars, inscriptions, coins, &c. which come to light almost wherever the ground is turned up; but even in the features and complexions of its inhabitants, who are said to betray their hereditary blood, and to differ considerably from their German neighbours. The inhabitants were so proud of their Roman origin, that, up to the time of the French revolution, the higher citizens styled themselves patricians - the two burgomasters wore the consular toga, and were attended by lictors-while the town banners bore the pompous inscription S. P. Q. C. Agrippina, mother of Nero, was born here in the camp of her fa could send forth 30,000 fighting men, came the season of decay. Commerce took a new route across the continent of Europe, and Cologne fell under the listless and unimproving domination of the priesthood. The uncontrolled sway of bigoted ecclesiastical rulers, on three occasions, marred its prosperity, and finally completed its downfal; the first injurious act of intolerance, was the persecution and expulsion of the Jews, 1425; the second, the banishment of the weavers; and the third, the expatriation of the Protestants, 1618. The injury done to the city by these arbitrary acts is best proved by the desolate condition to which they reduced it, contrasted with the increasing prosperity of Aix-laChapelle, Verviers, Elberfeld, Dusseldorf, Mühlheim, Solingen, and other cities in which the exiles, victims of these persecutions, who were almost invariably the most industrious and useful citizens, settled themselves. During this period the number of churches and convents multiplied enorinously. Cologne is said to have had as many steeples as there were days in the year; 2500 of its inhabitants were ecclesiastics; and, as a Europe, in the same manner, and al-natural consequence, more than twice most with as much spirit and pomp of masquerading, &c., as in Rome or Venice. The King of Prussia tolerates the procession of masks, even in the streets here, and in one or two other towns of his Rhenish provinces. Another amusement common in Italy, but found nowhere in Germany but at Cologne, is the Puppet Theatre (Puppen Theater), where droll farces are performed by dolls; and the dialogue, spoken in the patois of the country, and full of satirical local allusions, is carried on by persons concealed. In 1259, Cologne obtained the staple right by which all vessels were compelled to unload here, and ship their cargoes in Cologne bottoms. After its period of prosperity and splendour, during which the city the improvements consequent upon increasing prosperity, and the wise regulations of the Prussian government, the town is beginning to lose some portion of the dirty and gloomy appearance, for which it is so notorious. Many of the streets have been widened and paved-new houses built, and old ones repaired; still a large portion of the space enclosed within the walls is occupied by fields, gardens, and dirty lanes, formerly attached to various conventual houses, which have disappeared. Though once, no doubt, well cultivated and productive, they lie half waste at present, and give a gloomy aspect to the place. Should the new rail-road from Antwerp to Cologne, which is already commenced, and that from Amsterdam to Cologne, which is contemplated, ever be completed, we shall probably see Cologne again raising her head high among the chief cities of Europe; and this huge carcase of ruined buildings and vacant enclosures, revived by increasing wealth, will swell out into its former proportions, and flourish both in population and industry. Without the walls, at regular distances, are seven half-buried towers, à la Montalembert, which form part of the defences of the place. (rt.) Deutz, (Hotel Bellevue,) on the right bank of the Rhine, connected by the bridge of boats, nearly 1400 feet long, with Cologne, and recently strongly fortified as a tête du pont, is a favourite place of resort in summer evenings. It has many inns and guinguettes, which afford the amusements of music, dancing, and beer-drinking to the citizens. A large barrack has been constructed here within a few years, with magazines of artillery. Deutz is said to owe its rise to a castle built here by Constantine the Great. From the extremity of the bridge, the finest view of Cologne and its ranges of buildings, extending for three miles along the opposite bank, is obtained. An exceedingly interesting excursion may be made from Cologne to the hitherto little known or visited Abbey of Altenberg, about 12 miles distant, a short way off the road to Schwelm and Minden. (Route LXV.) Steamers start twice every day, up the Rhine to Coblenz, a voyage of ten hours, and daily down the Rhine to Dusseldorf and Nymegen, a voyage of 14 hours (Route XXXIV.), and thence to Rotterdam in eight hours. (Route XII.) Diligences (schnellposts) (§ 46), go, morning and evening, to Bonn and Coblenz, (Route XXXVII.), and to Aix-la-Chapelle (Route XXXVI.), daily to Berlin by Elberfeld, (Route LXIV.) daily to XXXIV.) Dusseldorf, (Route Cleves and Nymegen, (Route XXXV.) once a week to Trèves. There was a day when they were young and proud, Banners on high, and battles pass'd below; But they who fought are in a bloody shroud, And those which waved are shredless dust ere now, And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow. To the above accurate description of the poet is added another in prose, from the pen of a German, because it serves to illustrate the feelings of pride and almost veneration with which the Rhine is regarded in Germany; it is indeed looked upon as the national river. "There are rivers, whose course is longer, and whose volume of water is greater, but none which unites almost every thing that can render an earthly object magnificent and charming, in the same degree as the Rhine. As it flows down from the distant ridges of the Alps, through fertile regions into the open sea, so it comes down from remote antiquity, associated in every age with momentous events in the history of the neighbouring nations. A river which presents so many historical recollections of Roman conquests and defeats, of the chivalric exploits in the feudal periods, of the wars and negotiations of modern times, of the coronations of emperors, whose bones repose by its side; on whose borders stand the two grandest monuments of the noble architecture of the middle ages; whose banks present every variety of wild |