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nature of an Austrian minister on the passport before commencing this jour

ney.

The mining district of the Erzgebirge (ore mountains) displays few of the beauties of nature on its surface. Her bounty has here been expended below ground, where she has stored away, for the use of man, vast supplies of silver, lead, tin, iron, cobalt, and coal. The soil is poor, vegetation is scanty, and is further checked in the vicinity of the mines by the vapours from smelting-furnaces; and the face of the country is disfigured by hillocks of rubbish and heaps of slag.

3 Borna. - Inn, Post.

2 Altenburg. Inns: Stadt Gotha; -Hirsch. The capital of the duchy of Saxe Altenburg, has 13,000 inhabitants. The Palace (Schloss), on a height, consists of 2 parts: the older was built in the XIIIth century: out of one of its apartments the Robber Knights, Kunz of Kaufungen, and William von Mosen, stole the two young Saxon princes, Ernest and Albert, in 1445. The Gothic church is worth notice. The ducal family reside in the modern part, built in the XVIIth centry. The Damm is the name of an agreeable promenade.

The inhabitants of Altenburg are distinguished by their very peculiar and old-fashioned costumes handed down to them by their ancestors. The petticoats of the women reach no further than the knee, and their heads are surmounted by a conical cap of portentous dimensions. Near Altenburg and Gera the Saxon tin-mines are situated.

4 Zwickau, on the high road from Dresden to Nuremberg, p. 419.

2 Schneeberg.-Inns: Sächsischer Hof;-Der Ring; - Goldene Sonne. An important mining town of 6000 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the mines, and in preparing the ores of silver, cobalt, &c. obtained from them. There is also a considerable manufactory of smalt here. The Parish Church is a very fine building, and

contains some ancient paintings. Schneeberg snuff, a preparation of herbs found on the mountains of the Erzgebirge, taken as common snuff, is said to be good for sore eyes, and to cure headaches. In the neighbourhood are the picturesque castles of Stein, Eisenberg, and Wiesenburg.

14 Eibenstock. A mining town of 4400 inhabitants; in and about it are furnaces, founderies and tin mines.

12 Johann Georgenstadt (vulgarly called Hansgörgenstadt). Inns: Rathskeller;-Schiesshaus. A mining town, named after the Elector John George, in whose reign it was built as an asylum for the protestants driven out of Bohemia by Ferdinand II., 1654. It has about 3400 inhabitants. It stands in a rough and very elevated district, a sort of Saxon Siberia, whose produce lies beneath the barren surface, and consists of silver, tin, lead, iron, cobalt, bismuth, uranium, &c. The men are chiefly miners, the women employ themselves in making bobbinet. The distance from this to the Bohemian frontier is not more than a mile.

4 Carlsbad is described in the Handbook for South Germany (Route CCLX). The nearest road from Carlsbad to Dresden is by Joachimsthal, Annaberg, and Freiberg.

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the opposite descent lies Wilhelmsthal, a château of the Duke of Saxe Weimar.

At Gumpelstadt a road turns off to the l. to the Baths of Liebenstein, charmingly situated on the skirts of the Thuringian Forest. Travellers may be well accommodated, in the Badhaus or Herzogliche Gasthaus, and in the Neubau. The court of Saxe Meinengen passes a portion of the bath season here, in the building called Fürstenhaus. The spring furnishes one of the strongest chalybeate waters in Germany, more used for bathing than drinking. Liebenstein affords the usual amusements of a watering-place, daily music on the walks, balls, concerts, gaming-tables, and theatrical performances during the season.

A little way behind the baths is the Erdfall, a deep recess in the mountain side, piled round with masses of rock, somewhat resembling a colossal Cyclopean wall, overgrown at the top with trees, so as to form an agreeable retreat in hot weather. Pleasant walks lead from thence along the heights to the Old Castle of Liebenstein, the cradle of the family of Saxe Meiningen. It is founded on the rock, and parts of its foundation walls fill up the chasms in the limestone. Its towers command a delightful view over the forests of Thuringia, along the vale of the Werra, and as far as the Rhöngebirge.

About 3 miles from Liebenstein is the Duke of Saxe Meiningen's chateau Altenstein, very finely situated on the brow of a hill, with a grass plat and fountain in front, and surrounded by a beautiful park. A crucifix is planted on a projecting rock, marking, according to tradition, the spot from which St. Boniface, the apostle of Germany, preached Christianity to the pagan inhabitants of the country. Half an hour's walk from the castle, in the midst of the forest, but not far from the road, stands "Luther's Buche," (Luther's beech,) so called from the tradition that it

was beneath it that the bold Reformer, on his return from Worms, after the Papal bull had been uttered against him, was surprised by a party of armed men in masks, who mounted him on their horses, and carried him away a prisoner to the castle of Wartburg. This surprise was concerted by his friend and patron the Elector Frederick the Wise of Saxony. It is a magnificent tree, 6 ft. in diameter, overtopping all the rest of the forest.

At Glücksbrunn, a village half way between Liebenstein and Altenstein, is one of the most remarkable of the Caverns in which the limestone (dolomite) of this district abounds.

A good road leads from Liebenstein to Schmalkalden, about 10 miles distant. This ancient and unaltered town, of 5400 inhabitants, still preserves its double row of antique ramparts, and its fosse. Its houses are mostly built of wood, with timber framework, and, like those of Chester and Shrewsbury, have a highly picturesque character. Most of its inhabitants are smiths, and follow their trade in shops on the ground floor. In the Market-place stand the Gothic Church and the two chief innsAdler and Krone both very bad. In the latter the famous Protestant league of Schmalkald was signed, 1531. In the Sannersche Haus, the articles of the League were drawn up by Luther, Melancthon, Agricola, and other divines. That confederation was of the highest consequence to the cause of the Reformation, and proved so discouraging to its opponents, that no one dared mention Schmalkald in the presence of the Emperor Charles V. On a height above the town rises the old Electoral castle, Wilhelmsburg. The valley in which Schmalkald stands may be regarded as one great smithy; its inhabitants are chiefly workmen in metal, cutlers, makers of gimlets, &c. The iron ore is supplied from numerous mines in the vicinity. Below the town are extensive salt-works.

To return to the high road from

Eisenach. - The road from Gumpelstadt descends into the pretty valley of the Werra, on whose right bank lies

2 Barchfeld.

2 Schwallungen.

2 Meiningen. Inns: Sächsischer Hof; Hirsch. A town of 5500 inhabitants, built in the form of a harp, on the right bank of the Werra, and encircled by wooded hills. It is the capital of the Duchy of Saxe Meiningen, and residence of the Duke, who is brother of the Queen Dowager of England. The principal building is the Palace, containing various collections of art and natural history. There is an agreeable Park, and gardens attached to it.

2 Themar.-Inn, Post.

11⁄2 Hildburghausen. Inns: Englisches Haus; Sächsisches Haus. The Palace was, down to 1826, the restdence of the Dukes of Saxe Hildburghausen, until the extinction of the line of Gotha, when they removed to Altenburg, and Hildburghausen was united to Meiningen. The town contains about 4000 inhabitants, -many Jews. It is a lifeless place; the older quarter is of considerable antiquity.

11⁄2 Rodach.

2 Coburg. -Inn: Weisser Schwan. This is one of the residence towns of the Duke of Saxe. Coburg-Gotha; the other being Gotha. It numbers about 9500 inhabitants. The Palace called Ehrenburg, built 1549, contains a collection of pictures, and "some very handsome apartments. One suite of five rooms are adorned with figures, fruit, and flowers, in alto-relievo, white and gold. The finest of all, the Salle des Géantes, so called from some colossal caryatides which surround its walls, is now used as a state banqueting-room. These figures were formed by reducing a light wood to a thin saw-dust or powder, mixed with some kind of cement, and cast in a mould. These casts are so light, that they are attached

without difficulty to the walls and ceilings, giving a most extraordinary appearance of relief. There are some fine specimens of Marqueterie in the doors, and Coburg is to this day celebrated for that manufacture."

"In the Theatre, German operas and plays are acted on alternate nights; the establishment belongs to the Duke, under whose management it is extremely well conducted.

"The ancient Castle of the Dukes of Coburg is situated on a commanding eminence overhanging the town; the views from it extend over the Thuringerwald as far as the Franconian Switzerland. It is partly converted into a Prison and a House of Correction; but some of the chambers remain in their original condition. The rooms occupied by Luther, the bedstead he slept upon, during his concealment here, and the pulpit from which he preached in the curious old Chapel, are shown. There is much valuable armour here, that deserves to be arranged. The Castle was besieged by Wallenstein in the XXX. years He made the town of Coburg his head quarters for some time. Outside the walls may still be seen the remains of the chains to which the limbs of a traitor, who attempted to betray the place, were hung in full view of the besieging army; Wallenstein was at length compelled to raise the siege.

war.

"Among the many country-houses belonging to the Duke, the Hunting seats of Rosenau and Calemberg most deserve notice for the elegant style in which they are fitted up, and the beauty of their situation. The parks and forest around them abound in game of every description.

"The Court of Coburg and the whole of the Duke's establishment are maintained very handsomely, and Englishmen who have repaired thither recommended to his notice, have every reason to remember the kindness and hospitality which they have received."

w.

The Duke (it will be remembered)

is the elder brother of King Leopold | accommodate the numerous hunting and of H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent.

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2 Dingelstadt.

24 Mülhausen. - Inns: Schwan; König von Preussen. An ancient walled town of 10,000 inhabitants, pleasantly situated in the midst of a very fertile country on the Unstrut. It was anciently a free city of the empire. The Hauptkirche in the Oberstadt is the finest church. Münzer, the fanatic preacher, who excited the Thuringian peasants to revolt in 1524-25, made Mülhausen his head quarters, and collected around him a misguided host of 30,000 men, expelling the legitimate magistrates. His undisciplined bands, however, were soon dispersed in the battle of Frankenhausen, he himself was brought hither a prisoner, and after being tortured, was publicly executed. In his mad harangues he equally abused Luther and the Pope.

21⁄2 Langensalza. Inns: Mohr; Sonne. An industrious manufacturing town, with a population of 7000.

About 2 miles out of the town, is a saline-sulphureous spring of some reputation, supplying Baths, much resorted to in summer.

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suite who annually accompany him to his hunting-seat near this. The forest here may almost be called primæval, the pines often attaining the height of 280 feet. It yields a yearly revenue of £100,000 in building-timber alone. Game of every description abounds; the red deer are of an enormous size; and that elsewhere rare bird the bustard occurs here in great numbers. Between 700 and 800 stags are killed every year. The Duke has other hunting lodges in the forest, he is allowed to have the finest chasse in Germany, and is greatly addicted to sporting, which he maintains in a very handsome style."- W.

Soon after leaving Oberhoff the road attains its highest elevation. The view here is truely magnificent, over a great extent of this noble forest, the dark abysses of its valleys, and its mountains clad with pines, except their often craggy summits. From this point we descend to

2 Suhl.-Inn, Krone. The principal town of the Prussian county of Henneberg; it contains a population of 7118 inhabitants, who are chiefly weavers of linen or woollen, or gunsmiths. The town is romantically situated in the valley of the Lauter, at the base of the Domberg, a peak of which, the Ottilienstein appears to overhang it, and commands a fine view.

:

2 Schleussingen. 1 Heldburghausen, Rodach.

This road is important as a line of communication between N. and S. Germany; and there is much trafficofmerchandise upon it. The ROUTE XCIV.

2
2 COBURG.

latter part of it is described in Route XCII.

LEIPZIG TO COBURG, BY JENA, RUDOLSTADT, AND SONNENBERG.

254 German miles = 120 English miles.

64 Naumburg, in Route LXXVI. 2 Kamburg, on the Saal. It was through the defile in the rear of the castle of Dornburg that the French marched to outflank the Prussians at the battle of Jena, 1806. Bad road.

11⁄2 Jena, in Route LXXXVI. The Route continues to follow the pretty valley of the Saal, ascending it along the left bank of that river.

2. Kahla. Inn, Stern. A town of 1200 inhabitants. On the opposite bank of the Saal stands the castle of Leuchtenberg. The next object worth mentioning is the ruined castle Orlamunde, on a hill beneath which the road passes.

2 Rudolstadt. - Inns: Löwe; Adler; Ritter. The chief town of the principality of Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt, with a population of 4000. On the summit of an eminence nearly 200 ft. above the river, stands the Residence of the prince, the Castle of Heidechsburg, containing some pictures and a library. It has a Park called Ham attached to it. The Ludwigsburg in the town, containing a cabinet of natural history, and the Rathhaus, are the buildings most deserving of mention.

At Schwarza, 3 miles above Rudolstadt, the river Schwarza joins the Saal. About 9 miles up this winding valley, on the summit of a bold precipitous rock, stands the Castle of Schwarzburg. The greater part of the building is modern, erected after a conflagration, 1726, but in the relic still preserved of the old castle, the Kaiser Saal is worth notice. It contains portraits of Roman emperors, from Julius Cæsar to Charles IV.! In the Arsenal is shown some ancient armour, including a suit attributed to the unfortunate Emperor Günther von Schwarzburg, who was an ances

tor of the reigning princes. He was born in the picturesque castle Greifenstein, above the town of Blankenburg. There is a cross road from hence to the ruins of the Abbey of Paulinzelle, about 10 miles distant. It was founded 1105, by Pauline, daughter of the cup-bearer of the Empress Henry IV. It is finely situated in the depths of a forest. The church is a very interesting monument of the Byzantine or Romanesque style.

1 Saalfeld.- Inns: Der Goldene Anker, one of the oldest inns in Germany; the Emperor Charles V. put up here along with his prisoner the Elector John Frederick, June 27, 1547; Rautenkranz, in the suburb.

Saalfeld is a very ancient walled town, in the midst of the Thuringian forest, and contains 4800 inhabitants. The Rathhaus in the market-place is a venerable Gothic edifice. The Gothic

Church of St. John was built 1212, out of funds produced by the neighbouring gold mines of Reichmansdorf; the painted glass, and a colossal wooden statue of St. John in the interior, deserve mention. Near the town wall at the side of the Saal, are the ruins of the Sorbenburg, a fort built, according to tradition, to defend the frontier from inroads of the Sclavic barbarians (the Serbians and Wends).

The old Ducal Castle, also within the town, is now the Mint.

In the suburb outside the walls, is the more modern Château or Palace of the dukes of the extinct line of Saxe Saalfeld. The road now quits the banks of the Saal, and begins to ascend the central ridge of the Thüringer Wald.

2 Grafenthal.-Inns: Post; Weisses Ross.

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