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undulating table-land than of isolated summits. Near a solitary posthouse, called Krum Schiltach, the division of the waters, flowing on the one side to the Danube and on the other to the Rhine, might be observed.

The new line of route, finished 1837-8, avoids this wearisome ascent and uninteresting country, being carried from Hornberg up the valley of the Gutach, one of the most sequestered and beautiful in the Black Forest, to

2 Tryburg, (Inn: Löwe; tolerable,) a village of 800 inhabitants, in a very romantic situation, hemmed in by high precipices; from one of which, opposite the inn, a pretty waterfall descends. Tryburg is the centre of a manufacture peculiar, to the Black Forest, that of wooden time-pieces, exported to the number, it is said, of 180,000 yearly, under the name of Dutch clocks, not only throughout Europe, but even to America and China. The sulphur-coloured straw hats, worn by the peasantry, are also made here.

The Brege and the Briegach, the two head-waters of the Danube, rise within a few miles of Tryburg. The road now crosses the hills, and, at the commencement of the descent, the road falls in with the Briegach.

2 Villingen. A market town, of 3600 inhabitants, surrounded by bleak hills.

to the German Ocean, others, which reached the ground within a few feet of them, take an opposite course, and fall into the Black Sea.

It is an almost continued descent to 11⁄2 Donaueschingen.-Inns: Schütze; Poste (Falke), very comfortable. The town of 2800 inhabitants. The principal building is the Palace of the mediatised prince of Fürstenberg, a plain modern edifice.

In a corner of the garden, and between the walls of the palace and the church is a round basin filled with clear sparkling water, which may be seen bubbling up from the bottom. Its waters, running out of the basin, are conducted for about 50 yards, in a subterranean channel, into the Briegach, which from that point receives the name of the Danube. This little basin, under the castle window, goes by the name of the source of the Danube. The real origin of that river seems to have been involved in a portion of the same mystery which conceals the source of the Nile. The claims which the basin in the court-yard has to be considered the source are, that the name of Danube is not given to the river until the waters of this little basin are received into it, and that the two upper streams, the Briegach, rising near the convent of St. George, 20 miles off, and the Brege, whose fountain-head is in the hill of Hausebene, 25 miles from Donaueschingen, in spite of the pre

About 4 miles east of Villingen, near a village called Swenningen, is the source of the Neckar. This is in-vious length of their course, are both

deed a land of fountains and of water

courses; and though the height of the mountains is not great, and they have no glaciers or perpetual snow, yet the reservoirs of the Black Forest feed with large supplies the two principal rivers of Europe. The flakes of winter snow, which descend upon some of the ridges of the Black Forest, nay, even the drops of rain falling on opposite sides of a house, in some situations, are destined to end their career at the two opposite extremities of a continent; and, while part find their way

liable to be exhausted by drought, until supplied by the rill from the castle garden of Prince Fürstenberg.

The whole country round Donaueschingen may be compared to a wet sponge, so abundant and numerous are the sources of water in springs, rills, ponds, and marshes, all of which go to swell the tide of the Danube. About a mile out of Donaueschingen, at the village of Hüttingen, the road crosses the Brege, another head-water of the Danube, which joins the main stream about a mile further on.

There is a post-road direct from Donaueschingen by Geisingen (1) Germ. miles.) Engen (2), where Moreau beat the Austrians, in 1800, with a loss of 7000 men on either side. The height of Howenhowen, an extinct volcano, once more vomited forth flames, but, in spite of the tremendous fire of the Austrian artillery planted on it, it was carried by the French. Rudolfzell (3). Constance (2).

In the midst of a bare open country, interspersed with tufts of firs, a village is seen on a hill, at a little distance to the left of the road. This is Fürstenberg, which gives its name to the principality now mediatised. Riesbohringen is a small village.

2 Blomberg.

This stage is almost entirely occupied in the ascent and descent of a steep hill, called the Rande. The view from the top, near a wooden crucifix, is charming. On the left are seen 3 singular mountains, which, from their shape, may at once be known as extinct volcanos: they are called Hohen Stoffeln, Hohen Krähe, and Hohentwiel. Further on, in the distance, a wide expanse of the Lake of Constance, backed by the snowy mountains of Switzerland, with the towers of Constance itself, rises to view. Half way down the hill is a row of small houses; these are the douane of the Baden frontier. (§ 30.) Immediately beyond them the traveller reaches Swiss ground, and the road passes through a little valley, completely Swiss in aspect as well as situation, to 3 SCHAFFHAUSEN. (See the Handbook for Travellers in SWITZERLAND.)

The post-house is in the town of Schaffhausen, but the innkeepers (as usual) try to keep it a secret, and to persuade you that you can only trust voituriers. The cost of posting is 6 franks less than the voiturier's fare. The relays are,

2 Singen. Near this place you pass at the foot of Hohentwiel. The castle is now dismantled. The lofty

rock upon which it stands gives it the appearance of an Indian hill fort.

1 Rudolfszell. A desolate town, with a fine church, in the true German Gothic style.

The sweet scenery throughout the whole of this road is exceedingly agreeable, often striking. The woods abound in most splendid butterflies. Collections of these insects may be bought at Singen, and also at Rudolfszell.

The Inn at Rudolfszell, the " Posthaus," is very good; that at Singen poor, and extortionate.

The Rhine here, suddenly contracted from a lake to a river, is crossed by a wooden bridge, in order to reach

2 CONSTANCE. - Inns: "The Hecht or Brocket, and the Couronne Imperiale, both good; but the latter is to be preferred as the posting-house. The other is in the voiturier connection; and they do all they can to advise travellers to adopt that mode of transport, saying that you cannot rely upon finding horses, and the like."-Р.

Constance, a decayed city, of 4500 inhabitants instead of 40,000, which it once possessed, is remarkable for its antiquity, since its streets and many of its buildings remain unaltered since Ithe XVth century. Although situated on the l. or Swiss bank of the Rhine, it belongs to Baden. It is connected with the opposite shore by a long wooden covered bridge, and occupies a projecting angle of ground at the w. extremity of the Bodensee or Lake of Constance; its agreeable position, and interesting historical associations, make amends for the want of life perceptible within its venerable walls.

The Minster is a handsome Gothic structure, begun in 1052: the doors of the main portal, between the two towers, are of oak, curiously carved with a representation of the Passion of our Lord, executed in 1470 by one Simon Bainder. The choir is supported by 16 pillars, each of a single

block, and dates from the XIIIth century. The pulpit is supported by a statue of the " Arch-heretic Huss;" and the spot where he stood, as sentence of death by burning was pronounced on him by his unrighteous judges, is marked by a brass plate let into the pavement. Robert Hallam, Bishop of Salisbury, who presided over the English deputation to the council, is buried here, in front of the high altar, "under a tomb which is very remarkable as being of English brass, which is fully proved by the workmanship. It was probably sent over from England by his executors. Two sides of the ancient cloisters, whose arches are filled-in with exquisitely beautiful tracery, are yet standing. The other sides were not long since destroyed by fire. By the side of the cathedral is a curious circular chapel, perhaps a baptistry, in the centre of which is a Gothic model of the Holy Sepulchre. The chambers on the cloister portion of the ancient Episcopal palace contain many curious vestments and dusty relics of the past grandeur of the See."

P.

"The Dominican Convent, now a cotton factory, is very interesting. The church forms a most picturesque ruin, in the earliest style of German Gothic. The cloisters are perfect. The little island upon which this building stands was fortified by the Romans, and a portion of the wall, towards the lake, can yet be discerned."-P.

In a Hall of the Kaufhaus (an ancient edifice, dating from 1388), looking towards the lake, the Great Council of Constance held its sittings, 1414-18, in a large room supported by wooden pillars. That

famous assembly, composed, not of bishops alone, like the ancient councils, but of deputies, civil and ecclesiastical, from the whole of Christendom, including princes, cardinals (30), patriarchs (4), archbishops (20), bishops (150), professors of universities and doctors of theology (200),

| beside a host of ambassadors, inferior prelates, abbots, priors, &c., was convened for the purpose of remedying the abuses of the church; and, as those abuses began with its head, the proceedings were prefaced by a declaration, that a council of the church has received, by Divine right, an authority in religious matters, even over that of the Pope. It exerted its influence in curbing the Papal power, by deposing the infamous John XXIII. and Benedict XIII., and by electing in their place Martin V. But there is one act of this council which fixes more lasting and odious celebrity than all the rest treacherous seizure and cruel murder of John Huss and Jerome of Prague, in spite of the safe conduct granted to the former by the Emperor Sigismund, the president of the assembly.

the

The chairs occupied by the emperor and pope, the Bible of Huss, the door of the dungeon, now destroyed, in which he was confined, the hurdle on which he was dragged to execution, and some other relics of the council, still remain in the hall, besides a collection of Roman and German antiquities, dug up in the neighbourhood.

The house in which Huss lodged, bearing a rude likeness of him, is pointed out in the Paul's strasse, near the Schnetzthor. He was thrown into prison soon after his arrival, in the Franciscan Convent, now a ruin, whence he was removed to a more irksome dungeon below ground, affording scarcely room to move, in the before mentioned Dominican Convent.

The field - outside of the town, in the suburb of Brühl, in which he suffered martyrdom, with a fortitude which moved even his judges and executioners to admiration-nay, even the place where the stake was planted, are still pointed out; and rude images of Huss and Jerome, formed of clay taken from the spot, are offered for sale to the stranger.

In 1474 a perpetual treaty of peace was concluded at Constance, between Sigismund of Austria and the Swiss Confederation, which put an end to the contests which had endured for more than a century and a half, beginning with the fights of Morgarten and Sempach. Constance belonged to the crown of Austria from 1549 to 1805, when, by the treaty of Presburg, it was transferred to Baden. Since 1802 it has ceased to be a bishopric.

Petershausen, on the opposite bank of the Rhine, was until 1803 a Benedictine monastery': it is now a château of the Grand Duke. It is still surrounded by its ancient fosse and ramparts. An excursion to the little island of Meinau, about 4 miles n. of Constance, will well repay the trouble: it is decidedly one of the prettiest spots on the borders of the Bodensee.

The lake of Constance is described in the Handbook for Switzerland. Two steamers run regularly, 5 times a week, between Constance and the different ports of the lake.

ROUTE CIX.

FREYBURG IN BREISGAU TO SCHAFF

HAUSEN, BY THE HOLLENTHAL.

11 Germ. miles=51 Eng. miles. An eilwagen goes once a week, in 14 hours. It does not, however, follow the shortest road, but makes a detour by Donaueschingen. Although the distance is so small, the stages are so very tedious and hilly that at least 13 hours are occupied on the road travelling post, exclusive of all stoppages, except the time spent in changing horses.

The valley of the Treisam, commonly known as the Höllenthal, or Valley of Hell, is, at its commencement near Freyburg, a level and fertile plain of considerable width, bounded by gently sloping wooded hills. As you ascend, it gradually contracts, and, about 9 miles from Freyburg, assumes a character of romantic beauty and grandeur. Its charm lies in the rich foliage of the

woods covering its steep sides, out of which project buttresses and pinnacles of bare rock, and at whose foot runs the Treisam, bordered with turf and studded with frequent water-mills. Even here its scenery, though wild, exhibits none of those horrors which its name would seem to imply; indeed it is more like Paradise than the place from which it takes its name. It extends to Steig. Perhaps the most remarkable spot is that called Hirschsprung. It was through this valley that Moreau executed his famous retreat of the Black Forest, with an army, in 1796, and gained by it as high a reputation for military talent as he would have acquired by a victory. The French Marshal Villars declined attempting this pass in 1702, saying he was "not Devil enough.

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2 Steig. The post is an inferior inn; but at the Stern (Star), a mile beyond it, clean accommodation and tolerable fare, including capital trout, may be procured at a cheap rate. Immediately behind the Star, the road begins to ascend a steep slope which carries it out of the Höllenthal, leaving behind it all the fine scenery. 1 fl. 12 kr. is paid for an extra horse up the Höllensteig. At the top the road divides into 2 branches; that on the left goes to Donaueschingen: we continue to follow the shortest and most direct. A small lake, called Titi See, is passed on the right, and another equally steep hill succeeds, which must be surmounted before reaching

2 Lenzkirch.

tolerable.

2 Bondorf. Inn: Post (Hirsch), This village was burnt down in 1827. About 18 miles from this, and the same distance from Stuhlingen, lies the magnificent Benedictine abbey of St. Blaize, now sequestrated and turned into a factory, where spinning-jennies and fire-arms are made. The church, a modern edifice, was built 1768, after the plan of the Pantheon at Rome. On the dissolution of the monastery the monks removed into Carinthia, taking with them the bones of some noble ancestors of the house of Habsburg, who had been buried in their abbey.

Near the end of this stage is the castle of Hohen Lupfen, belonging to Prince Furstenberg, but inhabited only by a peasant. It occupies a most commanding position on the brow of a hill, at whose foot lies

1 Stuhlingen, where there is no comfortable inn. A little further on a small stream is crossed, which forms the boundary of Switzerland.

14 Schaffhausen, p. 497. (Described in the Handbook for SWITZERLAND.)

The left-hand road, leading out of the Höllenthal, conducts from Steig to

1 post. Neustadt. A town of 1500 inhabitants on the Wutach. Here and in the neighbourhood are manufactured the wooden clocks for which the Black Forest is famous. The inhabitants, an industrious race, employ themselves also in polishing garnets and crystals; as well as in rearing singing birds. A very excellent cheese, sold as Swiss, is produced in this district.

14 post. Unadingen; - thence by 14 Donaueschingen. (Route CVIII.) to Schaffhausen.

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