of great importance here. In some of these windmills a peculiar kind of sandstone brought from the neighbourhood of Bremen is reduced into dust, solely to furnish the Dutch housewife with sand for her floor. Far more important are those mills in which the volcanic trass, brought from the borders of the Rhine near Andernach, are ground to powder, to supply, when mixed with lime and sand, that valuable cement used in constructing locks, sluices, and dykes, name is written in letters so much larger than the former, as to throw some doubt as to which of the two it is meant should confer, and which receive, the honour. The period of Peter's stay at Saardam was much more limited than is generally supposed: it did not exceed three days. He suffered so much inconvenience from the concourse of idle gazers who assembled to look at him, that he preferred retiring to Amsterdam, where he could work in which has the property of hardening | comparative privacy within the walls under water. of the dockyard of the East India Company. Large ships are no longer built at Saardam. ROUTE IV. HAARLEM TO THE HELDER, AND BACK Saardam is, secondly, remarkable for the cottage or hut in which Peter the Great lived in 1696, while working as a common shipwright in the shipyards of Mynheer Calf, a rich merchant, in order to enable himself to instruct his subjects in the art of building ships. He went by the name of By Alkmaar Peter Baas, or Master Peter, among his fellow-labourers; wore a common carpenter's dress, and was seen in that costume hard at work by the Great Duke of Marlborough. The building is of rough planks, and inclined much on one side, from the foundation having given way. It has been bought by the Princess of Orange, sister of the Emperor Alexander, who, in order to protect so venerable a relic from the destroying effects of the weather, has caused a case to be built over it, which can be closed with shutters. It consists of two small rooms: in one of them is Peter's bed, which is nothing better than a cupboard, closed in front with doors: above is a loft, which can only be entered by a ladder. The walls of the two rooms are so covered with names from all countries of the world, in pen, pencil, ink, or cut with a knife, that it is hardly possible to lay your finger upon a vacant inch. Among the rest is that of the Emperor Alexander, who has caused a marble tablet to be let into the wall with the words "Petro Magno - Alexander; " but, if we recollect right, the latter het Zand het Nieuwe Diep 2 Helder 12 3 8 4 3414 There is a daily coach from Haar lem to Alkmaar. This excursion may be made in 31 or 4 days, though it deserves a longer time to be devoted to it. Alkmaar, which is only half a day's journey from Haarlem, may be the first halting place; thence to the Helder is a journey of 8 hours. From Helder to Hoorn will occupy the next day; and by starting early on the 4th the village of Broek and Saardam may be visited on the way, and Amsterdam be reached in the evening. The post extends no further than Sand; but good horses may be hired from thence to the Helder. North Holland, lying as it does out of the great route between Amsterdam and Rotterdam, is but rarely visited by travellers. The inhabitants, from living so far removed from intercourse with strangers, retain more of the old customs and habits, as well as dress, of their forefathers, than is found in South Holland. In this respect it is the most singular province in the country; but it is, besides, physically interesting, from its position and the nature of the soil. It is a peninsula, projecting into the midst of the sea: the borders of it contiguous to the ocean consist of sand; the rest is clay and fens: its length is about 20 leagues, and its greatest breadth 5 or 6. The land lies, almost everywhere, below the level of the ocean, and is protected from its inroads, from Kykduin along the coast of the Zuider Zee to Zaandam and Beverwyk, by large dykes, which, in the neighbourhood of the Helder, surpass in size and strength all that are to be met with in the whole of Holland, except those of West Kappel, in Zealand; so stupendous are they, that, on their account alone, this corner of Europe deserves to be explored. It is intersected in its entire length by the Great North Holland canal (see p. 52.), through which almost the whole commerce of Amsterdam now passes. A short distance off its shores were fought some very memorable engagements between the Dutch and English, especially that of Camperdown, gained by Lord Duncan. The fortress of the Helder, rising out of sand and waves, and the roads of the Texel, lie at the termination of it. The cattle fed upon this tongue of land are famed for their beauty and the abundance and richness of the milk and cheese which they yield; the sheep for the fineness of their fleeces and the excellence of their mutton. Those who take an interest in hydraulics will find many objects worthy of their attention; and the works along the New Diep will not be passed unnoticed by those who can appreciate the objects in view, and the means by which they have been attained. Last of all, we must especially observe, that the females of North Holland are particularly distinguished by their beauty, by the remarkable clearness of their complexions, and by the neatness and gracefulness of their costume, which is almost peculiar to the district. The back of the head is encircled by a broad fillet of pure gold, shaped like a horse-shoe, which confines the hair, and terminates on each side of the temple in 2 large rosettes, also of pure gold, suspended somewhat likė blinkers before the eyes of a horse; over this is worn a cap or veil of the finest and richest lace, with lappets hanging down the neck; and a pair of enormous gold ear-rings. It is a very graceful head-dress, particularly when the features which it conceals are pretty. These ornaments are almost always, even among the lower classes, of real gold, and the cost of them is considerable. Great sacrifices are made to purchase them, and they are considered heir-looms in a family. It is necessary to put the traveller on his guard against the landladies of the inns in North Holland; they are very extortionate, if indeed they are not great cheats: in two instances, at Alkmaar, in the Castle, and at the Helder, the author of that valuable little book of travels, "Dates and Distances," was absolutely fleeced by a regularly laid plan of systematic imposition. Though he had made a bargain on entering these inns, in neither instance was the slightest respect shown to the agreement; but, when the bills were produced, the charges were found double the amount stipulated. It is proper to warn travellers of this, though they will scarcely find means of putting a stop to the evil. The immediate neighbourhood of Haarlem is pleasing; not far from the road, and backed by trees, stood the Castle of Brederode, now a picturesque ruin: beyond this come the Dunes, from whose ridges a view extends on the right over the Wyker meer, covered with shipping, even to the windmills of Saardam, which may be discerned on a clear day. Near Velsen botanists may view a splendid collection of exotic plants at the villa of Mr. Vander Hoop. Admittance is gained by applying to the gardener. After passing Velsen we arrive at - BEVERWYK BEVERWYK. Inn, Heerenlogement. A considerable town, a pattern of Dutch purity and neatness, in its clean streets, villa-like houses, with fresh painted jalousies and windowsills, and its rows of trees clipped like hedges. At Prinzens Bosch, or Kruidberg, near Beverwyk, a country seat of William III., the expedition to England, which led to the dethronement of James II., and the Revolution of 1688, was planned, and decided on. At Beverwyk, the road leaves the shore of the Wyker meer. The country beyond is almost entirely devoted to pasture, and is covered over with beautiful herds of cattle, which here compose the wealth of the district. Except a few willows, trees have almost entirely disappeared; the country is one vast meadow. In 1799, an English expedition, which landed at the Helder, penetrated as far as the village called Castricum, where they were repulsed by the French under General Brune. Further on, to the left, stood Egmont, from which the noble family, so distinguished in the annals of Holland, derived its origin and name. It was destroyed by the Spaniards. A very small portion of the castle and abbey remains. Many counts of Holland were buried in the latter. The philosopher Descartes resided here for some time. 34. ALKMAAR. - Inns: The best is that kept by Coulon, where the charges are moderate and the accommodation good; the two daughters of mine host are both fair and graceful in their national costume; - the Doelen; - Heerenlogement. - The inn called the Castle (Burg) should be avoided, on account of the reprehensible conduct of its landlady, before alluded to. Alkmaar derives its name from the number of morasses and ponds, now dried up, which surrounded it in ancient times; it has 9000 inhabit ants, and is another example of Dutch neatness and good order, in its streets and houses, that to a traveller is very striking. The Hôtel de Ville is a highly ornamented edifice, with gothic tracery: it is said to resemble, on a small scale, that of Brussels. The Church of St. Lawrence is a handsome building of the XVth century. Here may be seen the tomb containing the heart of Count Floris V. of Holland. The town stands upon the great canal of the Texel; it carries on the most considerable commerce in cheese of any place in the world. A weekly market is held here, for the sale of it, to which the farmers and country people for many miles round resort, and dispose of the produce of their dairies to merchants, who export it to the extremities of the earth. Eight million lbs. of cheese are weighed annually in the town scales. Alkmaar has many nice walks around it, especially the Wood, similar to those of the Hague and Haarlem. Alkmaar endured, in 1573, a siege from the Spaniards, nearly equal in the severity with which it was urged on by the besiegers, and hardly inferior in the glorious example of bold resistance offered by the citizens, to those of Haarlem and Leyden. It was the first enterprize in which the Spaniards failed; it allowed the rest of Holland to draw breath, and gain confidence. The defence was the more noble since the resolution of adhering to the side of the Prince of Orange was not adopted by the men of Alkmaar until the enemy was at their gates. North of Alkmaar, upon the seashore, between Kamp and Pettena, is a place called Hondsbossche, the most dangerous spot along the whole Dutch coast, where the sea is constantly gaining upon the land. As there are no dunes here, the ocean is only kept out by artificial means, by building breakwaters, and throwing up jetties at right angles with the beach, which require unremitting care and attention. It is probable that one of the ancient mouths of the Rhine entered the sea at this point, previous to the formation of the Zuider Zee. (§ 9.) Among the villages seen on the way to Sand is Camperdown, off which was fought Admiral Duncan's action, in which he gained a complete victory over the Dutch, in 1797. The Dunes ($ 12.) near Camperdown are composed of sand, so very fine, and so extremely pure and white, that it is exported in large quantities to England, to supply some of our glass manufacturers. 3. Het ZAND.- Innkept by Hout. The name of the place will give the best idea of its situation; it lies in a dreary waste, all sand, in many places so loose as to be moved about by the wind. The road beyond traverses a complete desert, very wearisome to the eye, covered with scanty heaths intermixed with pools of water. The isthmus over which the road is carried is not more than 2 miles broad, and commands a view over the German Ocean on one side, and the Zuider Zee on the other. Here may be observed in summer large numbers of the seafowl (Anas tadorna), which builds its nest and lays its eggs in rabbit holes. - Inn. 21. Het NIEUWE DIEP. The inn is one of the most expensive in the country; the old lame landlady's charges are notorious; every one is equally fleeced by her. At the same time provisions are dearer here than any where else in Holland, and she very coolly replies to those who complain of her long bills, " Do you think I would pass my days in so miserable a hole, without some considerable recompence? If you do not like my charges you may go elsewhere?" The cunning woman knows that hers is the only tolerable inn in the place. Though in the midst of the sea, fish are very scarce here, but Bordeaux wine is cheap and good. lemsoord, the Portsmouth of Holland, about a mile from the Helder, has been entirely formed, by artificial means, within 80 years. It affords protection by means of piers and jetties stretching out from the shore, to all vessels entering the great canal, even to men-of-war, and merchantmen of large burthen. There is a steam-engine for emptying the dry dock; and the entrance of the basin is closed by a kind of sluice gate, called Fan Sluices, from their shape: by an ingenious contrivance, the force of the rising tide is directed against them in such a manner as to shut them, and effectually to exclude itself. The great North Holland canal terminates in the sea at Nieuwe Diep. The Helder is a strongly fortified town, with 2000 inhabitants; opposite the island of the Texel. The view from the extremity of the fortifications, looking towards it, and over the Mars Diep, or entrance into the Zuider Zee, is fine. Down to the end of the last century, the Helder was little more than a fishing village. Napoleon converted it into a fortress of first rank, capable of containing 10,000 men in its bomb-proof casemates, at an expense of many millions of francs. He called it his northern Gibraltar, but left the fortifications in a very unfinished state. Its batteries defend the roads of the Mars Diep, and the entrance of the harbour and grand canal. The extremity of the tongue of land which forms North Holland, being more exposed to the fury of tempests and the encroachments of the ocean than any other, is defended on all sides by a dyke of the very largest dimensions: within this rampart lies the town and fortress of the Helder. "The great dyke of the Helder, which is nearly 2 leagues in length, is 40 ft. broad at the summit, over which there is a very good road. It descends into the sea by a slope of 200 ft., inclining about 40 degrees. The highest The Port of Nieuwe Diep, or Wil-tides are far from covering the top; the lowest are equally far from showing the base. At certain distances enormous buttresses, broad and high in proportion to the rest, and constructed with still greater solidity, project several hundred toises into the sea. This artificial and gigantic coast is entirely composed of blocks of granite, all brought from Norway; and these masses, which look as if it were impossible to move them, are levelled and squared like a pavement. The number of rocks which are seen at one view are sufficient to confound the imagination: how much more when we think on the quantities buried beneath the waves to serve as the foundation of such mountains!" Journey in N. Holland. The Helder is almost the only spot on the coast of Holland where there is deep water close in-shore. The rush of the tide from the ocean into the Zuider Zee, through the narrow strait between Helder and the island of the Texel, constantly scours out the passage and keeps it clear. The British Forces sent to Holland under the command of the Duke of York, in 1799, landed here, and took possession of the Helder, but were compelled to re-embark a few weeks afterwards, having fruitlessly endeavoured to excite the Dutch to rise, and throw off the yoke of Buonaparte, and having suffered a severe repulse at Bergen. There is a wild dreariness and dull monotony in the aspect of this district, which would render a residence in it hardly endurable, a banishment, worse than death. It is a sand-bank, which man appears to have usurped from the sea-gulls, who have not yet abandoned their ancient territory, but flock to it in swarms, breaking the solitude by their incessant screaming cries. It is only when contrasting the barrenness of nature, and the threats of the sea, with the perseverance and successful ingenuity of man, that an interest is thrown over the whole scene, such as no other spot in Europe can be said to possess. The island of the Texel is inhabited by myriads of sea-birds, and by a primitive race of shepherds, whose flocks produce fleeces of remarkable length and fineness, which are highly prized. They are of a breed peculiar to the island: a sort of green-coloured cheese is made here of the ewes' milk. In returning from the Helder to Amsterdam, the old road must be retraced as far as het Zand; there a bye-road diverges to the east, through Schagen, a beautiful village, situated in a drained lake, called the Zype, the oldest drained land in North Holland. Flax of a very fine quality is cultivated in the neighbourhood, and Schágen is the market where it is sold. The country hereabouts, and all the way to Amsterdam, is the very opposite to that which has been left behind. It is clothed with the richest verdure, and supports numerous herds of cows, and large flocks of sheep, whose wool is famous, and the mutton highly prized; it abounds in old trees, and is sprinkled over with houses, affording, by their neatness, a sure indication of the owners' prosperity. The district is intersected in all directions by canals; and it is curious sometimes to observe the sails of the barges overtopping the roofs of the houses, and slowly moving along, to all appearance over the fields, as the canal itself is concealed from view. The road continues upon elevated dykes, and, after coasting along the Hugo-waard Polder, passes through the village of Rustemburgh, by the side of another polder, the Schermer meer. "In going along the Schermermeer, we arrive at the point where the 3 polders (§ 11.), the Hugoword, the Schermermeer, and the famous Beemster, meet. In the centre of this kind of triangle is built the pretty |