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under-glass, blow naturally at all seasons; but those varieties which we only see in summer, especially the Provence, red Provence, moss Provence, and white Provence. A few plants of the maiden's blush, damask rose, red rose, and York and Lancaster may be admitted after January, but they do not succeed

sooner.

Take off strong suckers about the end of October or beginning of November, with all the fibres they may have formed, which can only be well done by digging up the parent stock. Plant these suckers in pots only about four inches diameter at the top, winding the sucker three, four, or five times round the inside of the pot, and prune it more or less according to its length, so as to leave no more than two buds, or three at most, above ground. Fill the pots with hazel loam, mixed with one third of vegetable mould, pressing it firmly down to keep the sucker from starting, and plunge them to the brim close to one another, quincunx fashion, in an open bed, fully exposed to the sun and air. The small size of these pots may surprise many gardeners, but the plant will produce stronger blossoms in them than might be supposed, even the first year, if the suckers are large; and as they are to be shifted annually, it is absolutely necessary to begin with small pots. To have a plentiful supply of blossoms during the months of December, January, February, March, April, and May, from 100 to 300 suckers must be thus prepared. For the plants to be forced

from December to March, a small frame should be devoted, about twelve feet long, five feet wide, seven feet high behind, and only six or eight inches in front (fig. 21.); this pitch I have found h long experience to admit the rays of the sun or light, at that period, to strike upon the plants to the greatest advantage. I prefer a flue running through the whole floor from one end to the other, which, if built thick, and the fire-place as well as chimney-top be wellclosed up, after the heat has penetrated the flue, the air within will be sufficiently

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heated, with very little fuel, and require no attendance at night, except in very severe frost. The back of this frame may consist of wood, or a narrow brick, at pleasure, and should have a door in the middle, just sufficiently large to admit the gardener to creep in and water the plants by reaching over them from one side to the other, without any walk inside. A strong latticed floor must be fixed six inches above the flue, on which the pots must be placed when introduced, and these must have a pan or receiver under each, not only to catch any of the manured water, which I recommend, but to prevent the heat of the flue, which will now and then be smart, notwithstanding every precaution, from striking directly on the pots themselves. After the month of March, roses may be advantageously forced in other houses and situations, but hardly sooner, except on the front flue of a pine-stove; and a small frame like this is not only built and maintained at a small cost, but the lights may be used for other crops, especially melons, after June.

The plants, to be forced into blossom by Christmas day, should be placed in this frame on the 1st day of October, lighting fires gradually, so as to keep the temperature in the day time rather increasing than decreasing from 60 degrees of Fahrenheit to 80, but at night much lower; if the plants meet with one frosty night or two in the beginning of October, so much the better, for they will push more vigorously after the heat is applied. The first year, none of the crop will come in so early as afterwards, and I advise all the young suckers to be forced in succession the first year, not waiting till they have had one year's growth in the open air; moreover if the suckers are strong, they will produce more blossoms than might be expected.

If the second crop of plants be introduced on the 1st of November, they will blossom from the middle of January to the middle of February; those of the third crop, introduced on the 1st of December, from the middle of February to the middle of March; those of the fourth crop, introduced on the 1st of January, from the middle of March to the middle of April ; those of the fifth crop, introduced on the 1st of February, from the middle of April to the middle of May; those of the sixth and last crop, introduced on the 1st of March, from the middle of May till the middle of June; when several varieties in the open ground begin to blossom.

As soon as the plants begin to push their buds, whether any aphides appear upon the young shoots or not, fill the frame with tobacco-smoke, and do not fail to repeat this every third week till the flowers appear, smoking for the last time

just before any red tints appear on the earliest buds. No unpleasant smell of the tobacco will remain upon the plants after a day or two. The young shoots must also be carefully examined when only half an inch long, and any grubs feeding upon them destroyed.

After the blossoms are gathered, the plants must not be removed to a back shed, but kept in the frame, or brought back into it, if they have been taken into the apartments of the owner, permitting them to grow as they do in summer in the open air, for at least two or three months. They must then be placed in a shady situation, and kept rather dry than moist, to throw them into a state of rest; after the month of May, I prefer inverting them, especially the earlier crops, between two planks raised upon tressels, high enough to prevent the branches from touching the earth, as in the annexed sketch (fig. 22.); having for twentyfive years experienced the utility of this treatment, and suspecting that it strengthens the future blossoms by retaining sap in the branches, which

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would otherwise descend to the root or form suckers.

While the plants are growing they must be constantly supplied with moisture; that which I employed with great advantage consisted of water and pigeon's dung infused in it a few days before, in the proportion of one ounce to a gallon of water. Where pigeon's dung cannot be had, two ounces of sheep or deer's dung may be substituted to each gallon of

water.

It now only remains to add what is the most important point of all to attend to in forcing roses, and that is to mark all the plants, so that those introduced into the frame in October, the first year, may be introduced on the same day the second, and every succeeding year; and I know no method of doing this so effectually as to paint No. 1, 2, 3, &c. upon the pots themselves. Sticks and marks are liable to decay, or to be changed by accident or negligence. Every year, about a fortnight before the plants are forced, they must be shifted into larger pots, exactly one inch wider in diameter and not more, turning them out without breaking the ball or disturbing any of the fibres, and filling the pots with the same compost of hazel loam and vegetable earth. By this method the same plants may be forced for ten years without the inconvenience of using a very large pot, as the last season they will not want to be removed, or may be shifted into the same pot again. With respect to pruning, I have never been in the habit of leaving more than two buds on

each branch, and as the plants increase in size and number of branches, often only one bud upon the weaker branches; it is much better to have from ten to twenty strong blossoms than a larger number of weak ones, and the foliage is likewise more healthy.

ART. VII. History, Description, and Mode of Treatment of Bishop's Early Dwarf Pea. By Mr. DAVID BISHOP.

SIR,

I SEND you some seed of an early pea, which I believe is not at all known in England, and only to a few of my friends and acquaintance in Scotland; among whom, it has attracted considerable attention, and is known by the name of Bishop's Early Dwarf.

The following is a short historical notice and description, with an account of the manner of treatment; which, should you deem worthy of a place in the Gardener's Magazine, is at your disposal. I obtained this pea some years ago from a large sowing of the Spanish Dwarf. At that time it had nothing to recommend it to notice, but that of being dwarf and early. Indeed it had the appearance of a bad bearer, for upon the plant I found, were only two pods; but I considered it, even in that state, worthy my attention. I saved its seed,

and grew it in pots and boxes for two years, and each year it increased in productiveness. On the third year I sowed it in a warm border, and was happy to find, I had not only got an early, and dwarf pea, but at the same time a very productive one.

The height that it attains even in the richest soil, is seldom more than twelve inches; but as it produces a great number of branches it occupies a considerable breadth. The pods are of moderate size, and the peas they contain (fig. 23. a) are larger than the Early Frame (b) or even the Charlton. (c)

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The flowers are large, and a border or plot in bloom has a fine appearance. Respecting its productiveness it will be found fully to equal either of the above mentioned sorts, and in very good soil to surpass them. From its dwarf size, it will be found admirably adapted for small gardens; and for an early crop, it may be sown close to the bottom of a wall, where it may be easily protected from the Spring frosts, if found

necessary, by placing a board length-wise in front, with the upper edges resting on the wall, and the lower on the ground. Or, the upper edges may be fixed to the wall, by means of hinges, or thongs of leather, and kept tied up in good weather, and let down in bad. I have, however, in this country, without using any means of protection, gathered a dish of good peas on the 23d of May. I have likewise sown the produce of peas which came to maturity in June and July, and obtained a good crop in the Autumn of the same year. But what I consider most worthy of attention is, that its dwarfness and earliness point it out to be the only fit pea for forcing; and I consider it in the power of every gentleman who is possessed of a small pit or peach-house, to have young peas at his table, at least during the months of April and May.

When sown in the open ground, this pea should have nearly the same room given it as French beans have; that is, about eighteen or twenty inches between the rows, and from one inch to two inches between each pea: this will be found quite thick enough; and as a quart will go over as much ground as a peck does in common cropping, there will be found a great saving of seed.

New Scone, near Perth, 10th Dec. 1825.

I am, Sir, &c.

DAV. BISHOP.

P. S. The method of rearing peas in pots and boxes, in hot-beds, and hot-houses, and afterwards transplanting them out into the open ground, is a common practice with gardeners, and often succeeds very well; particularly if they are not too long in transplanting them; but I would recommend a method, not so well known, as far preferable to that of pots or boxes, particularly when they are to be raised in a hot-bed. This consists in having a quantity of turf cut into pieces, of about nine or ten inches long, and three or four broad, which are placed in a regular manner over the surface of the bed, grass side downwards, and a row of peas is sown upon each row of turf, and afterwards covered with soil; when they are fit for transplanting, no more is required, than to lift out the turf, piece by piece, with the peas growing upon it, and place them where they are to produce their crop. By this means the roots receive no injury; nor does the plants sustain the least check in transplanting. This method may be practised, with similar success, in the raising of potatoes, beans, &c.

Note by the Conductor.-We have distributed the peas sent us, among Messrs. Malcolm and Gray, Cormack, Son, and

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