CHAP. VI. CREMONA RIVER ADDUA-PLACENTIA-THE TREBIA-PARMAREGGIO-MODENA-ITS LIBRARY, AND CELEBRATED LIBRARI ANS-MURATORI-TIRABOSCHI. CREMONA is rendered interesting to the classic reader, by the well-known verse of Virgil, Mantua væ miseræ nimium vicina Cremona. Eclog. 1x. 28. And the accurate observation of Tacitus. Hunc exitum Cremona habuit bellis externis intacta, civilibus infelix. In fact, these few words contain the whole history of this city, which, founded by one of the Celtic tribes that occupied the northern parts of Italy, was colonized and fortified by the Romans, about the commencement of the second Punic war, as a rampart against the approaching attack of Hannibal. The strength of its walls, or the courage of its inhabitants, preserved it from the fury of this formidable invader, and it went on increasing in numbers, size, and opulence, till by its attachment to the cause of the senate, and of liberty, it drew down upon itself the vengeance of the Triumvirs, and incurred forfeiture and confiscation.* Its fidelity to Vitellius, or its mistaken prudence, calculating on the supposed superiority of his interest, exposed it to the rage of Vespasian's partisans, who besieged, took, plundered, and reduced it to a heap of ashes. Shortly after it rose from its ruins; but rose to experience the disasters of war and revolution, and share the long and painful agonies of the expiring empire. However, it survived all its reverses, and after having been the prey of Goths and Lombards, French and Germans; after having enjoyed a precarious liberty, and then borne the light yoke of the sovereigns of Milan; it is, for the present, annexed to that sickly abortion of French influence, misnamed the Italian Republic. Cremona is a large and well-built city, adorned with many noble edifices, and advantageously situated on the northern bank of the Po. Its cathedral, of Gothic, or rather mixed architecture, was begun in the year 1107, and continued, at different periods, but not completely finished, till the fourteenth century. Its front is lined with white and red marble, and highly ornamented, though in a singular and fanciful style. It contains several beautiful altars and fine paintings. One chapel in particular merits attention. It is that which is set apart for the preservation of the relics of the primitive martyrs. Its decorations are simple and chaste, its colors soft and pleasing. The ashes of the "sainted dead" repose in urns and sarcophagi, placed in niches in the wall, regularly disposed on each side of the chapel, after the manner of the ancient Roman sepulchres. It is small, but its proportions, form, and furniture, are so appropriate and well * The consequences of this confiscation reached the Mantuan territory, and occasioned, as is well known, the flight and the successive fame of Virgil. combined, that they produce a very beautiful and perfect whole. The Baptistery, which, according to the ancient manner still preserved in many of the great towns of Italy, is a separate building near the cathedral, contains in the centre a font of curious form and workmanship, cut out of one immense block of party-coloured marble. The tower is of great height and singular architecture. The view from it is extensive, taking in the town with its streets; the roads that cross the country in strait lines, in various directions; the Po, winding along almost close to the walls, and intersecting the immense plains of the Milanese; the Alps to the north, and the Apennines to the south-west, both covered with snow, and occasionally half veiled with passing clouds. Such was the prospect we beheld from the top of the Torazzo. The public palace, for so the town-hall is, not improperly, called in Italy, and most of the churches, but particularly that of St. Pietro al Po, are worthy the attention of the traveller; since, with several objects which correct taste must blame, they contain many which it will admire. Cremona has produced her proportion of genius and talent, both in ancient and modern times, but among all her sons, none have contributed more to her reputation than Marcus Hieronymus Vida, the first poet of the second Augustan age of Roman literature, and sometimes not undeservedly styled, by his admirers, the Christian Virgil. Every reader is acquainted with the poetical tribute, which Pope has paid to his memory, in his Essay on Criticism; and all, who peruse Vida's works, will acknowledge that the compliment is not misplaced. But literary excellence was neither the sole, nor the principal, merit of Vida: piety and purity of morals, unsullied even by suspi cion, graced his early years, and a zealous discharge of every episcopal duty employed him from the middle to the close of life. He was buried in his cathedral at Alba; and a cenotaph is said to have been erected to his honor, in the cathedral at Cremona; though we used much research and enquiry in vain endeavours to discover it. I shall conclude this account of Cremona, with some verses, taken from a hymn of this poet, which, with the passage of Tacitus inserted above, will suffice to give the reader some notion both of the history and territory of Cremona. The verses are addressed to our Blessed Saviour, and express a Christian sentiment in the purest language of Heathen poetry. Tum veri, Graium obliti mendacia, vates Funera per gentes referent tua, carmine verso, Atque tuis omnes resonabunt laudibus urbes, Præsertim lætam Italiæ felicis ad oram, Addua ubi vagus, et muscoso Serius amne Ut sibi jam tectis vix temperet unda caducis.-Christiados v1.885-890. If the reader wishes to see the history of Cremona, the beauties of its district, and the achievements and talents of its inhabitants, set off in the most splendid colors of partial eloquence, he may read the pleadings or Actiones tres, attributed to this author, and supposed to have been pronounced before competent judges, at Milan, on a question of precedency, between Cremona and Pavia. From Cremona, to the fortress of Pizzighitone, are two short stages. We there passed the Adda, a very noble river, on a flying bridge. This river is represented, by Claudian, as re markable for the cerulean tints of its waves, and is united to the Tesino, in a very pretty verse. Colla lavant pulcher Ticinus et Addua visu The country continues populous and fertile, but displays more forest wood. Castiglione, with various little towns and villages, appears rich and beautiful. Thence the roads were deep and bad, owing to the late inundations. Towards sunset, we arrived at the Po, and passing it on a flying bridge, entered Placentia, March 23d. This city, as well as Cremona, was built and colonized by the Romans, about two hundred and eighteen years before Christ, and, not long after, served as an asylum to the Roman army, when defeated by Hannibal, at the Trebia. It was afterwards assaulted by that Carthaginian, but in vain; and like Cremona, was destined to suffer more from the madness of citizens, than from the fury of invaders. More fortunate, however, than the latter, though attacked by a party of Vitellians, it resisted with success, and in the bloody contest, had only to lament the loss of its amphitheatre, remarkable, it seems, for its capaciousness and architecture. This edifice, like that of Verona, stood without the walls, and was of course exposed to the fury of the assailants. It seems to have been principally of wood, as it was consumed by fire, a circumstance which, in our ideas, must take away much of its pretended splendor: but, whatever were its materials, its extent was, at that time, unequalled; and it stood, the pride of Placentia, and the envy of the neighbouring cities. It was set on fire when Cæcina assaulted the town, either by chance, which is more probable, or perhaps, as the Placentians suspected, by the malice of some incendiaries, who took advantage of the confu |