of country from Treponti to Terracina was drained, and the Via Appia completely restored in the third consulate of that Emperor. This event is commemorated in three inscriptions, one of which may be seen on a marble slab at the village of Treponti ; another more explicit was found near the forty-second mile stone on the Via Appia; and the third exists on a stone in one of the angles of the wall of the cathedral at Terracina. During the convulsions of the following centuries the marshes were again overflowed, and again drained by Cecilius Decius in the reign of Theodoric. The commencement of this work is announced in an epistle drawn up in the declamatory style of the times, and addressed by the Gothic prince to the senate. Its success is acknowledged in another to Decius, containing a grant of the lands drained by him free from taxes for ever. 1 Of the different popes who have revived this useful enterprise, Boniface II., Martin V., and Sixtus Quintus carried it on with a vigor adequate to its importance, and a magnificence worthy of the ancient Romans. But the short reigns of these benevolent and enterprising sovereigns did not permit them to accomplish their grand designs, and their successors of less genius or less activity contented themselves with issuing briefs and imposing obligations on the communities and proprietors to support and repair the drains. The glory of finally terminating this grand undertaking, so often attempted and so often frustrated, was reserved for the late pontiff Pius VI. who immediately on his elevation to the papal throne turned his attention to the Pomptine marshes. The level was taken with precision, the depth of the different canals and outlets sounded, the degree of declivity in the beds of the rivers ascertained, and at length the work begun in the year 1778. It was carried on with incredible ardor and vast expense for the space of ten years, and at length crowned with complete success and closed in the year 1788. The impartial reader will readily acknowledge that much praise is due to the pontiff who, in spite of every difficulty, and many occurred not only from the nature of the work, but from the petty interests, intrigues, and manœuvres of the parties concerned, had the courage to commence, and the perseverance to complete, an undertaking of such magnitude. The unproductive marsh forced to bear the plough and maintain the neighbouring cities, the river restrained from inundations and taught a better course, are considered by Horace* as the most glorious of Augustus's achievements, and with reason, if glory be the result of utility. Yet Augustus had the immense resources of the Roman empire at his command; he had idle legions to employ instead of laborers, and his success was partial only and temporary. In truth the draining of the Pomptine marshes is one of the most useful as well as most difficult works ever executed, and reflects more lustre on the reign of Pius VI. than the dome of the Vatican, all glorious as it is, can confer on the memory of Sixtus Quintus. I have said that the success was complete; it is however understood that the canals of communication be kept open, and * Art. Poet. 64. + It is fortunate for the Pope, and indeed for catholics in general, that there is such clear and frequent mention of the Pomptine marshes in ancient authors; otherwise these destructive swamps would undoubtedly have been attributed by such travellers as Burnet, Addison, Misson, &c. to the genius of the papal government, and the nature of the catholic religion, to indolence, superstition, ignorance, &c. the beds of the streams cleared*. The difference between the latter and all preceding attempts is this; on former occasions the level was not taken in all parts with sufficient accuracy, and of course the declivity necessary for the flow of the waters not every where equally secured. This essential defect has been carefully guarded against on the late occasion, and the emissarii or great drains so conducted as to insure a constant current. The principal fault at present is said to be in the distribution of the land drained, the greater part of which having been purchased by the Camera Apostolica was given over to the Duke of Braschi. The Roman noblemen have never been remarkable for their attention to agriculture, and the duke content probably with the present profit is not likely to lay out much in repairs, particularly in times so distressing as the present. Had the land been divided into lesser portions, and given to industrious families, it might have been cultivated better, and the drains cleansed and preserved with more attention. The government indeed ought to have charged itself with that concern, but in governments where the people have no influence, public interests are seldom attended to, with zeal, constancy, and effect. When we crossed the Pomptine marshes, fine crops of corn covered the country on our left, and seemed to wave to the very foot of the mountains; while on the right numerous herds of cattle and horses grazed in extensive and luxuriant pastures. Nor indeed is the reader to imagine, that when the marshes were in their worst state they presented in every direction a dreary and * It is reported that since the last French invasion these necessary precautions have been neglected, and that the waters begin to stagnate again. forbidding aspect to the traveller or sportsman who ranged over them. On the side towards the sea they are covered with extensive forests, that enclose and shade the lakes which border the coasts. These forests extend with little interruption from Ostia to the promontory of Circe, and consist of oak, ilex, bay, and numberless flowering shrubs. To the north, rises Monte Albano with all its tumuli, and all the towns and cities glittering on their summits. To the south, towers the promontory of Circe on one side, and the shining rock of Anxur on the other; while the Volscian mountains, sweeping from north to south in a bold semicircle, close the view to the east. On their sides the traveller beholds Cora, Sezza, Piperno, like aerial palaces shining in contrast with the brown rugged rock that supports them. These towns are all ancient, and nearly retain their ancient names. The walls and two Doric temples still attest the magnificence of Cora. Setia is characteristically described in the well known lines of Martial, which point out at once both its situation and principal advantage. Quæ paludes delicata Pomptinas Ex arce clivi spectat uva Setini. The town is still as anciently little, but it no longer possesses the delicate and wholesome wines which it anciently boasted; for although vineyards still cover the hills around and spread even over the plains below, yet the grape is supposed to have lost much of its flavor. Piperno is the Priverni antiqua urbs of Virgil, whence the father of Camilla was expelled. The road from Rome to Naples passed through these towns before the late restoration of the Via Appia, and the draining of the marshes. To continue our route. The post-house called Mesa was the ancient Admedias Paludes. At the extremity of the marshes we crossed the Amasenus, now united with the Ufens, and falling with it into the canal on the right. The bridge is handsome and graced with an inscription, in a very classical style, relative to the change made in the bed of the former river. It runs as follows: Qua leni resonans prius susurro Ut Sexto gereret Pio jubenti Morem, neu sibi ut ante jure possit Viator male dicere aut colonus. The Amasenus is indeed here a deep and rapid stream, and was when we passed it clear, though it carried with it such a mass of water from the marshes. The scenery around the bridge is wooded, cool, and was to us particularly refreshing. The stream was full and rapid as when Metabus reached its banks. Ecce fugæ medio summis Amasenus abundans Virgil Æn. x1. The woods and thickets around seem to present the same scenery as anciently, and correspond well with the rest of the history, the solitary education and half-savage life of Camilla. We were now about to emerge from these marshes, the only of the kind ever dignified by classic celebrity. They have at length laid aside their horrors, and appeared to us clothed with harvest, and likely again to become what they were in the early ages of the Roman republic, the granary of Latium. Livy relates that the Romans under the apprehension of scarcity had recourse to the Pomptine territory for corn. Now the hilly part of that territory produced much wine indeed, but little corn; the latter |