the French, their principles, and measures; and on this subject he acknowledges that his expressions, if they correspond with his feelings, must be strong, because his abhorrence of that government and its whole system is deep and unqualified. Neither the patriot who recollects the vindictive spirit with which the Ruler of France carries on hostilities against Great Britain, the only bulwark of Europe, and the asylum of the Independence of Nations, because he knows where Freedom makes her last stand, Libertas ultima mundi Quo steterit ferienda loco, Lucan VII. nor the philosopher who considers the wide wasting war which the French government has been so long carrying on against the liberties and happiness of mankind, will probably condemn the author's feelings as intemperate, or require any apology for the harshness of his expressions. As long as religion and literature, civilization and independence are objects of estimation among men, so long must revolutionary France be beheld with horror and with detestation. It now only remains to inform the reader, that the Tour sketched out in the following pages was undertaken in company with PHILIP ROCHE, Esq. a young gentleman of fortune, who, while he spared no expence to render it instructive, con tributed much to its pleasures by his gentle manners, and by his many mild and benevolent virtues; virtues which, as it was hoped, would have extended their influence through a long and prosperous life, and contributed to the happiness, not of his family only, but of an extensive circle of friends and acquaintance. But these hopes were vain, and the Author is destined to pay this unavailing tribute to the memory of his friend and companion. The two gentlemen who, with the Author and his fellow traveller, formed the party often alluded to in the following pages, were the Honourable Mr. CUST, now Lord BROWNLOW, and ROBERT RUSH BROKE, of Rushbroke Hall, Esq. The information, the constant politeness, and good humour of the former, with the liveliness, the mirth, and the accomplishments of the latter, heightened the pleasures of the journey, and, by supplying a continual fund of incident and conversation, rendered even Italy itself more delightful. To Lord BROWNLOW, the Author must acknowledge another obligation, as he is indebted to his Lordship for several useful observations during the course of this work, and particularly for the details of the excursion to the island of Ischia, and the account of the solitudes of Camaldoli and of Alvernia. The publication of these volumes has been delayed by frequent avocations, and particularly by a more extensive and scarcely less interesting excursion to parts of Dalmatia, the Western Coasts of Greece, the Ionian Islands, to Sicily, Malta, &c. &c. The details of this latter Tour may, perhaps, be presented to the public if the following pages shall seem to meet its approbation. Great Chesterford, Essex, Sept. 14, 1812. PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Jam mens prætrepidans avet vagari O dulces comitum valete cœtus Longè quos simul à domo profectos Catul. XLIV. THE degree of preparation necessary for travelling dopends upon the motives which induce us to travel. He who goes from home merely to change the scene and to seek for novelty; who makes amusement his sole object, and has no other view but to fill up a few months that must otherwise remain unemployed, has no need of mental preparation for his excursion. A convenient post-chaise, a good letter of credit, and a well-furnished trunk are all that such a loiterer can possibly wish for; for occupation he will have recourse to inns, to coffee-houses, and to theatres, with their appurtenances, which cannot fail to supply him with incidents, anecdote, and pastime in abundance. But he who believes with Cicero that it becomes a man of a liberal and active mind to visit countries ennobled by the birth and the residence of the Great; who, with the same Roman, finds himself disposed by the contemplation of such scenes to virtuous and honourable pursuits; he who, like Titus Quintius employing the first days of leisure after his glorious achievements in visiting the celebrated monuments of Greece, embraces the earliest opportunity of visiting the classic regions of Italy, such a traveller will easily comprehend the necessity of providing before-hand the information necessary to enable him to traverse the country without constant difficulty, doubt, and inquiry. And indeed, if there be a Tour in which such preparation is more peculiarly necessary than in any other, it is that which I allude to: as Italy owes more to history than even to nature; and he who visits it merely with his eyes open to its embellishments, and his mind intent on observation, though he may see much and learn much also, will yet, with all his curiosity and diligence, discover one-half only of its beauties. Even those travellers who have made some efforts to qualify themselves by previous application, will find many occasions to regret that they have not extended their researches still farther, and |