indeed almost the only inconveniencies, arise from the equinoctial rains and the summer heats. The influence of both is felt over all Italy: that of the former is particularly inconvenient and even sometimes dangerous, especially in the northern provinces and along the eastern coast. The immense number of considerable rivers, such as the Tanaro, the Tesino, the Bormida, the Adda, &c. that pour their tributary waters into the Po, while with it they contribute so largely to the luxuriancy and beauty of the plains through which they glide, yet, when swelled with continued rains, like it they overflow their banks and inundate the level surface of the surrounding country. On these occasions the roads are covered with mud, the fords rendered impassable, bridges not unfrequently swept away, and communication between different towns and provinces entirely suspended. Nor do these inundations always subside as soon as might be expected from the general heat and dryness of the climate; their pernicious effects are sometimes felt for months afterwards, and I recollect to have myself observed in March 1802, in the neighbourhood of Mantua, or rather about ten miles lower down, between the Mincio and the Po, vast sheets of water, and whole fields immerged, the effects of an inundation some months before. Virgil, whose farm bordered upon the Mincius, seems to have had a particular apprehension of the consequences of inundations, if we may judge from the accurate details which he gives of the signs of approaching rain, and the picture which

he draws of their disastrous consequences.

The traveller

therefore, who may be surprized by these periodical showers, if in compliance with the advice given above, he establish himself in the first commodious inn, will not find such accidental delays either useless or unpleasant.

But to return to the principal object of this paragraph. Though the sun in Italy have, even in the cooler seasons, a sufficient degree of warmth to incommode a foreigner, yet the heat can scarcely be considered as an obstacle to travelling, except in the months of July and August; then indeed it is intense, and it is considered imprudent to expose oneself to the beams of the sun for any time; though Englishmen frequently seem insensible of the danger, and brave alike the rigours of a Russian winter and the heats of an Italian or even of an Egyptian summer. Fevers and untimely deaths are sometimes the consequences of this rashness, and more than one traveller has had reason to regret his imprudence. To avoid these dangers, persons who are obliged to travel during the hot months generally proceed by night, and repose during the sultry hours of the day. By this method, without doubt, they guard sufficiently against the inconveniences and dangers of the weather, but at the same time they sacrifice one of the principal objects, the scenery of the country; and this sacrifice in Italy can, in

my opinion, be compensated by no advantages. The best method, therefore, is to set out a full hour before sun-rise, to stop at ten, and repose till four, then travel till eight at the latest: by this arrangement of time the traveller will enjoy the prospect of the country, the freshness of the morning, and the coolness of the evening, and devote to rest those hours only which heat renders unfit for any purpose of excursion or of enjoyment.

ACCOMMODATIONS.

A few words upon the inns and accommodations in Italy will be sufficient. An English traveller must, the very instant he embarks for the Continent, resign many of the comforts and conveniencies which he enjoys at home, and which he does not sufficiently prize, because he is seldom in the way of learning their value by privation. Great will be his disappointment if, on his arrival, he expects a warm room, a newspaper, and a well stored larder. These advantages are common enough at home, but they are not to be found in any inn on the Continent, not even Dessennes at Calais or the Maison Rouge at Frankfort. But the principal and most offensive defect abroad is the

want of cleanliness, a defect in a greater or lesser degree com

mon to all parts of the Continent. In Italy, to which these observations are confined, the little country inns are dirty, but the greater inns, particular in Rome, Naples, Florence, and Venice, are good, and in general the linen is clean, and the beds are excellent. As for diet, in country towns, the traveller will find plenty of provisions, though seldom prepared according to his taste. But, "il faut bien," says Mr. De la Lande, "racheter par quelque chose les agrémens de l'Italie.”

This representation of Italian accommodations, which it is hoped, will be found on experience tolerably accurate, is not on the whole discouraging, and our traveller may commence his journey without the apprehension of any very serious or distressing inconvenience. In fact, he who can content himself with plain food and a good bed, will find abundant compensation for the absence of the supernumerary pleasures of accommodation, in the indulgence of rational curiosity, and the acquisition of elegant knowledge. classical reader will console himself in the assurance, that accommodations in the worst Italian inns at present, are far better than what they seem to have been in Horace's time, if at least, we may be allowed to form conjectures about the state of inns in general from that of Beneventum in particular.

The

The inconvenience of which the poet complains at Trevicus

is at present very general at the inns both of France and Italy, where the shivering traveller finds himself, if he happens to travel in cold weather, like Horace, often ushered into a damp room, and placed before a newly lighted fire, diffusing a half smothered flame, lacrimoso non sine fumo.

OBJECTS OF ATTENTION.

XIV. It may not be deemed superfluous to enumerate the principal objects which deserve a traveller's attention, and to point out, at the same time, the best method of satisfying his curiosity. The manners, customs, and opinions, together with the different lights which religion, government, and climate throw upon the characters of nations and individuals, without doubt, claim our first attention. To converse with the natives of the country, to frequent public assemblies and courts, and, on the other hand, to take an occasional range in the humble walks of life, is the proper method of acquiring this useful information. The introduction to the higher class in Italy is not very difficult; they meet in evening parties, either at particular houses, where such assemblies are called conversazzioni; or at the casino, a sort of fashionable club established in most towns in Italy. A good letter of introduction to any person of rank will open all such assemblies to a stranger. But the traveller, who really wishes to know the