MODERN COOKERY.

CHAPTER I.

SOUPS.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

THE art of preparing good, wholesome, palatable soups, without great expense, which is so well understood in France, and in other countries where they form part of the daily food of all classes of the people, has hitherto been very much neglected in England; it is one, therefore, to which we would particularly direct the attention of the cook, who will find, we think, on a careful perusal of the present chapter, that it presents no difficulties which a common degree of care and skill will not easily overcome. The reader, who may be desirous to excel in it, should study the instructions given under the article Bouillon, where the principles of this branch of cookery are fully explained.

The spices and other condiments used to give flavour to soups and gravies should be so nicely proportioned that none predominate nor overpower the rest; and this delicate blending of savours is perhaps the most difficult part of a cook's task: it is an art, moreover, not easily acquired, except by long experience, unless great attention be combined with some natural refinement of the palate.

A zealous servant will take all possible pains on her first entrance into a family, to ascertain the particular tastes of the individuals she serves; and will be guided entirely by them in the preparation of her dishes, however much they may be opposed to her own ideas, or to her previous practice.

Exceeding cleanliness, both in her personal habits and appearnce, and in every department of her work, is so essential in a cook, that no degree of skill, nor any other good qualities which she may possess, can ever atone for the want of it. The very idea of a dirty cook is so revolting, that few people will be

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induced to tolerate the reality; and we would therefore most strongly urge all* employed in the culinary department of a household, who may be anxious for their own success in life, or solicitous to obtain the respect and approbation of their employers, to strive to the utmost against any tendency to slovenliness of which they may be conscious, or which may be pointed out to them by others.

So.

Modern Copper Stock-Pot.

A FEW DIRECTIONS TO THE COOK.

In whatever vessel soup is boiled, see that it be perfectly clean, and let the inside of the cover and the rim be equally Wash the meat, and prepare the vegetables with great nicety before they are laid into it; and be careful to keep it always closely shut when it is on the fire. Never, on any account, set the soup by in it, but strain it off at once into a clean pan, and fill the stock-pot immediately with water: pursue the same plan with all stewpans and saucepans directly they are emptied.

Skim the soup thoroughly when it first begins to boil, or it can never afterwards be rendered clear; throw in some salt, which will assist to bring the scum to the surface, and when it has all been taken off, add the herbs and vegetables; for if not long stewed in the soup, their flavour will prevail too strongly. Remember, that the trimmings, and especially the bones of fresh meat, the necks of poultry, the liquor in which a joint has been boiled, and the shank-bones of mutton, are all excellent additions to the stock-pot, and should be carefully reserved for it.

* An active, cleanly, and attentive kitchen-maid will generally become an admirable cook.