THE LADY'S SAUCE.

(For Fish.)

Pound to a very smooth paste the inside coral of a lobster with a small slice of butter, and some cayenne; rub it through a hair-sieve, gather it together, and mix it very smoothly with from half to three quarters of a pint of sauce tournée, or of cream fish-sauce, previously well seasoned with cayenne and salt, and moderately with pounded mace; bring it to the point of boiling only, stir in quickly, but gradually, a tablespoonful of strained lemon-juice, and serve it very hot. When neither cream nor gravy is at hand, substitute rich melted butter, mixed with a dessertspoonful or two of essence of anchovies, and well seasoned. The fine colour of the coral will be destroyed by boiling. This sauce, which the French call Sauce à l'Aurore, may be served with brill, boiled soles, grey mullet, and some few other kinds of fish: it is quickly made when the lobster butter of Chapter XIV. is in the house.

Coral of lobster, pounded; cream-sauce, or sauce tournée (thickened pale veal gravy), to pint; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful; salt, cayenne, and mace, as needed. Or: rich melted butter, instead of other sauce; essence of anchovies, 2 dessertspoonsful; other seasoning, as above.

Obs. The proportion of spices here must, of course, depend on the flavouring which the gravy or sauce may already have

received.

GENEVEVE SAUCE, OR SAUCE GENEVOISE.

Cut into dice three ounces of the lean of a well-flavoured ham, and put them with half a small carrot, four cloves, a blade of mace, two or three very small sprigs of lemon-thyme, and of parsley, and rather more than an ounce of butter into a stewpan, just simmer them from three quarters of an hour to a whole hour, then stir in a teaspoonful of flour; continue the slow stewing for about five minutes, and pour in by degrees a pint of good boiling veal gravy, and let the sauce again simmer softly for nearly an hour. Strain it off, heat it in a clean saucepan, and when it boils, stir in a wineglassful and a half of good sherry or Madeira, two tablespoonsful of lemon-juice, some cayenne, a little salt if needed, and a small tablespoonful of flour, very smoothly mixed with two ounces of butter. Give the whole a boil after the thickening is added, pour a portion of the sauce

over the fish (it is served principally with salmon and trout), and send the remainder very hot to table in a tureen.

Lean of ham, 3 ozs.; small carrot; 4 to 6 cloves; mace, 1 large blade; thyme and parsley, 3 or 4 small sprigs of each; butter, 1 to 1 oz.: 50 to 60 minutes. Veal gravy, I pint: to 1 hour. Sherry or Madeira, 11⁄2 glassful; lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonsful; seasoning of cayenne and salt; flour, 1 tablespoonful; butter, 2 ozs.: 1 minute.

Obs.-A teaspoonful or more of essence of anchovies is usually added to the sauce, though it is scarcely required.

SAUCE ROBERT.

Cut into small dice, four or five large onions, and brown them in a stewpan with three ounces of butter, and a dessertspoonful of flour. When of a deep yellow brown, pour to them half a pint of beef or of veal gravy, and let them simmer for fifteen minutes; skim the sauce, add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and, at the moment of serving, mix in a dessertspoonful of mademustard.

Large onions, 4 or 5; butter, 3 ozs.; flour, dessertspoonful: 10 to 15 minutes. Gravy, pint: 15 minutes. Mustard, dessertspoonful.

SAUCE PIQUANTE.

Brown lightly, in an ounce and a half of butter, a tablespoonful of minced eschalots, or three of onions; add a teaspoonful of flour when they are partially done; pour to them half a pint of gravy or of good broth, and when it boils, add three chilies, a bay-leaf, and a very small bunch of thyme. Let these simmer for twenty minutes; take out the thyme and bay-leaf, add a high seasoning of black pepper, and half a wineglassful of the best vinegar. A quarter-teaspoonful of cayenne may be substituted for the chilies.

Eschalots, 1 tablespoonful, or three of onions; flour, 1 teaspoonful; butter, 11⁄2 oz.: 10 to 15 minutes. Gravy or broth, pint; chilies, 3; bay-leaf; thyme, small bunch: 20 minutes. Pepper, plenty; vinegar, wineglassful.

EXCELLENT HORSERADISH SAUCE.

(To serve hot or cold with roast beef.)

Wash, and wipe a stick of young horseradish, grate it as small as possible on a fine grater, then with two ounces (or a couple of large tablespoonsful) of it, mix a small teaspoonful of salt, and four tablespoonsful of good cream; stir in briskly and

by degrees, three dessertspoonsful of vinegar, one of which should be Chili vinegar when the horseradish is mild. To heat the sauce, put it into a small and delicately clean saucepan, hold it over, but do not place it upon the fire, and stir it without intermission until it is near the point of simmering, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle instantly.

Horseradish pulp, 2 ozs. (or, 2 large tablespoonsful); salt, 1 teaspoonful; good cream, 4 tablespoonsful; vinegar, 3 dessertspoonsful (of which one should be Chili when the root is mild). Obs.-Common English salad-mixture is often added to the grated horseradish when the sauce is to be served cold.

HOT HORSERADISH SAUCE.

(To serve with boiled or stewed meat, or fish.)

Mix three ounces of young tender grated horseradish with half a pint of good brown gravy, and let it stand by the side of the fire until it is on the point of boiling; add salt if required, a teaspoonful of made-mustard, and a dessertspoonful of garlic or of eschalot vinegar, if at hand; if not, substitute Chili vinegar, or twice as much common vinegar for it.

Some cooks stew the horseradish in vinegar for ten minutes, and after having drained it from this, mix it with nearly half a pint of thick melted butter.

Horseradish, grated, 3 ozs.; brown gravy, pint; mademustard, 1 teaspoonful; eschalot or garlic vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful (or, Chili vinegar, same quantity, or common vinegar, twice as much).

CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S OWN SAUCE FOR MANY MEATS.

Throw into a small basin, a heaped saltspoonful of good cayenne pepper, in very fine powder, and half the quantity of salt;* add a small dessertspoonful of well-refined, pounded, and sifted sugar; mix these thoroughly; then pour in a tablespoonful of the strained juice of a fresh lemon, two of Harvey's sauce, a teaspoonful of the very best mushroom catsup (or of cavice), and three tablespoonsful, or a small wineglassful, of port wine. Heat the sauce by placing the basin in a saucepan of boiling water, or turn it into a jar, and place this in the water. Serve it directly it is ready with geese or ducks, tame or wild; roast pork, venison, fawn, a grilled blade-bone, or any other broil. A slight flavour of garlic or eschalot vinegar may be given to

* Characteristically, the salt of this sauce ought, perhaps, to prevail more strongly over the sugar, but it will be found for most tastes sufficiently piquant as it is.

it at pleasure. Many persons use it with fish. It is good cold; and, if bottled directly it is made, may be stored for several days. It is the better for being mixed some hours before it is served. The proportion of cayenne may be doubled when a very pungent sauce is desired.

Good cayenne pepper in fine powder, 1 heaped saltspoonful; salt, half as much; pounded sugar, 1 small dessertspoonful; strained lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful; Harvey's sauce, 2 tablespoonsful; best mushroom catsup (or cavice), 1 teaspoonful ; port wine, 3 tablespoonsful, or small wineglassful. (Little eschalot, or garlic-vinegar at pleasure.)

Obs. This sauce is exceedingly good when mixed with the brown gravy of a hash or stew, or with that which is served with game or other dishes.

POOR MAN'S SAUCE.

(Served with Turkey Poults.)

Mix with four tablespoonsful of minced eschalots, half a teaspoonful of salt, nearly as much pepper, two tablespoonsful of water, and three of good sharp vinegar. Boil the sauce for a few minutes, and serve it hot; or send it to table cold, when it is liked so. Vinegar may entirely supply the place of the water in this case, and a spoonful or two of oil may be mixed with it. A small dessertspoonful of minced parsley, tarragon, or chervil, is likewise sometimes mixed with the eschalots. Their strong flavour may be in some measure weakened by steeping them for an hour or more in a pint of cold water after they are minced.

SALAD DRESSING.

For a salad of moderate size pound very smoothly the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs with a small teaspoonful of unmade mustard, half as much sugar in fine powder, and a saltspoonful of salt. Mix gradually with these a small cup of cream, or the same quantity of very pure oil, and two tablespoonsful of vinegar. More salt and acid can be added at pleasure; but the latter usually predominates too much in English salads. A few drops of Chili or of cayenne vinegar will improve this receipt. Hard yolks of eggs, 2; unmade mustard, I small teaspoonful; sugar, half as much; salt, 1 saltspoonful; cream or oil, small cupful; vinegar, 2 tablespoonsful.

Obs. 1.-To some tastes a teaspoonful or more of eschalot vinegar would be an acceptable addition to this sauce, which may be otherwise varied in numberless ways. Cucumber, or

tarragon-vinegar may be substituted for other, and small quantities of soy, cavice, essence of anchovies, or catsup may in turn be used to flavour the compound. The salad-bowl too may be rubbed with a cut clove of garlic, to give the whole composition a very slight flavour of it. The eggs should be boiled for fifteen minutes, and allowed to become quite cold always before they are pounded, or the mixture will not be smooth: if it should curdle, which it will sometimes do, if not carefully made, add to it the yolk of a very fresh unboiled egg.

Obs. 2.-As we have before had occasion to remark, garlic, when very sparingly and judiciously used, imparts a remarkably fine savour to a sauce or gravy, and neither a strong nor a coarse one, as it does when used in larger quantities. The veriest morsel (or, as the French call it, a mere soupçon) of the root, is sufficient to give this agreeable piquancy, but unless the proportion be extremely small, the effect will be quite different. The Italians dress their salads upon a round of delicately toasted bread, which is rubbed with garlic, saturated with oil, and sprinkled with cayenne, before it is laid into the bowl: they also eat the bread thus prepared, but with less of oil, and untoasted often, before their meals, as a digestor.

FRENCH SALAD DRESSING.

Stir a saltspoonful of salt and half as much pepper into a large spoonful of oil, and when the salt is dissolved, mix with them four additional spoonsful of oil, and pour the whole over the salad; let it be well turned, and then add a couple of spoonsful of tarragon vinegar; mix the whole thoroughly, and serve it without delay. The salad should not be dressed in this way until the instant before it is wanted for table: the proportions of salt and pepper can be increased at pleasure, and common, or cucumber vinegar may be substituted for the tarragon, which, however, is more frequently used in France than any other. Salt, 1 spoonful; pepper, as much; oil, 5 salad-spoonsful; tarragon, or other vinegar, 2 spoonsful.

OUR OWN SAUCE FOR SALAD OR COLD MEAT.

Mix with the yolks of two very fresh unboiled eggs a halfsaltspoonful of salt, a third as much of cayenne, and a slight grating of nutmeg; then stir very gradually to them three tablespoonsful of oil of the finest quality, working the sauce like the Mayonnaise; and when it is perfectly smooth, add three spoonsful of good meat-jelly, and two of cucumber-vinegar. The shin of beef stock for gravies, which will be strongly