ART. XI. Londiniana, or Reminiscences of the British Metropolis ; including Characteristics, Antiquarian, Topographical, Descriptive, and Literary. By Edward Wedlake Brayley, F S.A. M.R.S.I.., &c. &c. 4 vols. London: Hurst, Chance, and Co. 1829.

THE changes which London has undergone during the last ten centuries form an amusing subject for reflection. National manners are so easily modified by circumstances of any kind, that it is not improbable custom itself is affected by the alterations which take place in the external appearances of cities. If this be indeed the case, the office of the topographical antiquary is to be regarded with twofold respect, and the discoveries he makes among the half obliterated traces of former generations as so many aids to a knowledge of their distinct and proper character. The inquisitive curiosity with which the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum have been explored, is a strong evidence of the general feeling on this subject. Every object which recals any image of their inhabitants is more valued by the traveller, than a manuscript of the most antient author. It is contemplated as a part of the real active scene of life, which by its presence destroys something of the distance between us and our forerunners, and leaves less for fancy to perform, when we would look back into the darkness of the past. But the reverence with which the relics of former times are observed, is principally confined to objects which have been recovered from cities, either no longer in existence, or fast crumbling away into the sand of the desert. The feeling is seldom extended, except in a very feeble degree, to the spots on which our own houses are built, to the remains of things which have only plain, stern time to hallow them, or to ruins, which, being cleared away, leave room for some temple dedicated to present comfort or ambition.

To us, however, who are willing to look at things in any way that can make them appear most thought-awakening-most adapted to call any deep-working sympathy out of its sleeping place-the near and familiar objects around us, whose antiquity is only marked, perhaps, by their more sombre appearance, are almost as worthy of observation as a volcano-buried city. They speak to us plainly of what has been, and of the changes which are made by time to alternate with the fixed laws of the universe and humanity. An old city, like London, is full from one corner to the other of sights on which antiquity has written its legends, and described its moral emblems with the finger of a philosopher. We are continually treading upon the site of some dwelling which a patriot, or a poet, consecrated, by spending in it his years of holy retirement or endurance; the roof of an hospital or alms-house every now and then meets the eye, reminding us of the religious charity of men who sought no other monument to make themselves remembered, but the good deeds of love. Then, there are the proud but citizen-like

halls of antient trade, at the very sight of which we conjure up the pompons and glittering processions, when the setting of the citywatch, and the Lord Mayor's day, were things of which merry London was not ashamed; there are also to be met with here and there, an antient house or two, as we pass which we are inclined to forget that time improves as well as changes, and think that people can never be so happy as when they possess homesteads that have a sort of impenetrability to light, noise, and troublesome intruders; and besides these, there are streets through which we may walk from day to night, the very names of which call into our minds, romance-like passages of history, or the noble thoughts of old

romancers.

The alterations which have successively removed first one, and then another of the objects which belonged to London in the olden time, have been accompanied by a corresponding change in popular manners. With the picturesqueness, the strong, massive, shadowmaking forms of the antient buildings, have passed away the mirthloving and domestic spirit of their inhabitants. In proportion as trade and commerce have learnt to despise their splendid shows and processions, they have become less national, less truly English, and have yielded themselves to cold calculation for their deity, instead of St. George and Bishop Blaise, and other such like noble-hearted patrons. But it would occupy more space and time than we can spare, to enter into a dissertation on this subject, and we must leave it to the consideration of some learned antiquary to trace the parallel changes which have taken place in the solid forms of the substantial city, and the volatile spirits of its inhabitants.

Like most mighty cities as well as families, London traces its proud origin to times, under the shadow of which it is very difficult to discover the truth. According to tradition, it was founded 1008 years before Christ, and by no less a person than Brute, a descendant of Eneas. This record of its early beginning was credited so lately as the reign of Henry the Sixth, but it was not followed up by any connected history, and no account is given of its condition from the period above-mentioned to the times which immediately preceded the invasion of Cæsar. From what is said of its state in that age by the old chroniclers, it has been concluded that it was certainly founded by the native British, which opinion is supported by Pennant, and other eminent antiquarians. A great deal of learning has been expended in endeavouring to determine the site on which it was originally built, but the datas appear to be too few to determine the question. The same also may be said with regard to the derivation of its name. By some writers it is supposed to be compounded of the two British words, Llong, a ship, and Din, a town; by others it is derived from Llyn-din, Llyn meaning a lake. There is nothing improbable in either of these etymological guesses, the latter, however, considering how generally the names of places in England are derived from their particular situations, appear to be the better founded supposition.

The description which is given of London by Tacitus, the earliest of the classical historians who mentions it, represents it as a place of considerable consequence, terming it the great market of trade and commerce, and also the chief residence of merchants. He also describes it at a later period as being celebrated for the vast number of merchants by whom it was frequented, for its extensive commerce, and the abundance of the supplies which it was able to pour forth. Its wealth and importance must, indeed, have increased in a very rapid manner, for, in the year 359, it is said that eight hundred vessels were employed in the exportation and general trade of corn. It is not decided at what period the walls were first built, but their erection is uniformily attributed to the skill and policy of the Romans. The foundation of these walls was examined by Dr. Woodward in the year 1707, and it is reported by him to have been about eight feet below the present surface, and to have been composed, to a considerable degree, of what is called rag stone, -with the Roman tiles called ses-quipedales interspersed at the distance of two feet. The hardness of the mortar, to which the durability of Roman remains is generally attributed, was so great, that it was broken with equal difficulty as the stone itself. The part of the wall which was examined by our antiquary lay in Camomile-street, near the site of Bishop's-gate, where he also discovered several antiquities which indicated the former residence of the first conquerors of the Britons. One of the most curious remains, however, of this kind, is the famous London stone, or Roman milliaris. The following account is given of this interesting piece of antiquity in the present work :

'London Stone, the Lapis Milliaris of the Romans, is a well known remnant of antiquity, standing against the south wall of St. Swithin's church, in Cannon-street, which connects with Watling-street, and was formerly a part of it. Though now reduced to a mere fragment, this is still an object of considerable interest with those who associate the recollection of past events and distant ages with existing monuments. In former times, this venerable remain was regarded with a sort of superstitious zeal, and, like the Palladium of Troy, the fate and safety of the city was imagined to be dependent on its preservation. Some small portion of its decay may be ascribed to the effects of time, but the chief mischief must have been committed by the hands of man.

6

Stowe's description of London Stone is as follows: speaking of Walbrook, he says, "On the south side of this high street, neere unto the channell, is pitched upright a great stone, called London Stone, fixed in the ground very deep, fastened with bars of iron, and otherwise so stronglie set, that if cartes do runne against it through negligence, the wheeles be broken, and the stone itselfe unshaken. The cause why this stone was there set, the verie time when, or other memory thereof, is there none; but that the same hath long continued there, is manifest, namely since, or rather before, the time of the conquest. For in the end of a fayre written Gospell booke, given to Christes Church in Canterburie, by Ethelstane, King of the West Saxons, I find noted of lands or rents in London,

belonging to the said church, whereof one parcel is described to lye near unto London Stone. Of later time we read that, in the year of Christ 1135, the 1st of King Stephen, a fire which began in the house of one Ailwarde, neare unto London stone, consumed all east to Ealdgate (Aldgate) in which fire the priorie of the Holy Trinity was burnt, and west to S. Erkenwald's Shrine in St. Paul's church and those be the eldest notes that I read thereof.

:

"Some have saide this stone to have beene set as a marke in the middle of the cittie within the walles; but in truth, it standeth farre nearer unto the river of Thames than the walls of the city. Some others have saide the same to bee set for the tendering and making of paymentes by debtors to their creditors at their appointed daies and times, till of later time, paymentes were more usually made at the font in Pontes Church, and nowe most commonly at the Royall Exchange. Some againe have imagined the stone to be set up by one John, or Thomas, Londonstone; dwelling there against it; but more likely it is, that such men have taken the name of the stone, rather than the stone of them, as did John at Noke, Thomas at Stile, William at Wall, or at Well, &c."

'Fabian has been quoted by different historians, namely, Strype, Maitland and Malcolm, as noticing London Stone in the doggerel rhymes which he has attached, by way of Prologue, to the second volume of his "Chronicle"; yet, on referring to the original, it will be evident that London only was intended to be described. Rome, Carthage, and Jerusalem, says Fabian, have been" caste downe," with " many other cytyes," yet

'This ancient monument is mentioned by Holinshed, in his account of the insurrection of Jack Cade. When that rebellious chieftain of the populace, he says, had forced his way into the capital, he struck his sword upon London Stone, exclaiming, "Now is Mortimer lord of this city;" "as if," Pennant remarks," that had been a customary way of taking possession."'-pp. 17-19.

Mr. Brayley has, very judiciously and ingeniously, gathered together most of the ancient descriptions which are given of London, and has remarked, as a very extraordinary fact, that the Doomsday Book has wholly omitted any mention of the capital,

which, at the time of its compilation, must have been, as we have seen, a place of very great importance. The most probable explanation of this curious circumstance is, that a separate survey was made of the city, the record of which has been destroyed, or hitherto escaped the researches of antiquaries. The fullest description which remains of London in early times, is that by William Fitz-Stephen, a monk, of Canterbury, who lived during the reign of Henry the First. A translation of his memoir was made by Dr. Samuel Pegge, and published in the year 1772. Fitz-Stephen was, for the age in which he lived, a man of considerable erudition, and obtained, by his character as a scholar, the attention and friendship of Thomas à Becket. The account he has given of London forms the introduction to his life of Becket, which he wrote under the title of "Vita Sancti Thomæ, Archiepiscopi et Martyris." He was well accomplished for the work, having been present at the barbarous murder of the Archbishop. After a proud eulogium on the magnificence of the metropolis, which he places among the very first in the world for its commerce, grandeur, the excellence of its climate, and the purity of its religion, he proceeds to a description of St. Paul's, the Tower, and some of the suburbs, after which he gives the following account of the inhabitants :—

*

In respect of the inhabitants, the city may be proud of its inmates, who are well furnished with arms, and are numerous. In the time of the late war, when King Stephen directed a muster, it turned out, of effective men, no less than twenty thousand horse, properly accoutred, and sixty thousand foot. The citizens of London, everywhere, and throughout the whole kingdom, are esteemed the politest of all others, in their manners, their dress, and the elegance and splendour of their tables. Insomuch, that whilst the inhabitants of other cities are styled Citizens, they are dignified with the name of Barons, and with them an oath is the end of all strife. The matrons of the city perfect Sabines.+

"The three principal churches in London are privileged by grant and ancient usage with schools, and they are all very flourishing. Often, indeed,

*This large army could not possibly have been formed of the inhabitants of London exclusively, at that period; but probably the city had been chosen for a general rendezvous of King Stephen's soldiers, as well as of the armed retinues of such of the nobility as supported his usurpation. + The Sabine women were eminent for their chastity, industry, and frugality; in short, as Mr. Pegge has remarked, for "every quality respectable in good housewives."

There is a diversity of opinion as to what churches the schools here mentioned were attached. According to Strype, they were St. Paul's, the Priory of the Trinity, at Aldgate, and St. Martin-le-Grand. Others suppose, they were St. Paul's, the Abbey of Westminster, and St. Peter's, Cornhill. Mr. Pegge, after referring to Dugdale's "History of St. Paul's," p. 9, edit. 1658, in support of his conjecture, says, "it should seem that the three schools, intended by our author, were St. Paul's, Bow, and St. Martin's-le-Grand," as, " in King Stephen's time, none were permitted to