hair hung in loose and flowing ringlets down his naked shoulders, his necklace was made of a vast number of strings of nicely braided human hair tied together behind, while a paraoa, (an ornament made of a whale's tooth,) hung pendant from it on his breast. His wrists were ornamented with bracelets formed of polished tusks of a hog, and his ancles with loose buskins thickly set with dog's teeth, the rattle of which kept time with the music of the calabash drum during the dance. A beautiful yellow tapa was tastefully fastened around his loins, reaching to his knees. He began his dance just in front of the musicians, and moved forwards and backwards across the ring, occasionally cantilating the achievements of former kings of Hawaii. The governor sat at the end of the ring opposite to the musicians, and appeared gratified with the performance, which continued until dark,

CHAPTER III.

Proposed rout.-An ancient fortress -Aid from the Governor.-Native dance.-Height of Huararai.-Manner of preparing bark for native cloth.-Conversation with the Governor.-Departure from Kairua.-Description of the guide.-Several heigus.--Population along the western coast.-Tracts of rugged lava.-Scene of the battle which took place in consequence of the abolition of idolatry.-Description of the battle.-Tomb of a celebrated priest.-Account of Capt. Cook's death, and of the honours rendered to his remains.-Encouraging missionary labours.

JULY 15th. Our whole number being now together at the place, from which we had previously agreed to commence our tour, we no longer delayed to decide

On the side next the mountains, they were twenty feet high, and six broad on the top, but nearly double that breadth at the bottom. The walls next the sea were not more than seven or eight feet high, and were proportionally wide. The upper terrace within the area was spacious, and much better finished than the lower ones. It was paved with various kinds of flat, smooth stones, brought from a considerable distance. At the south end was a kind of inner court, where the principal idol used to be kept, surrounded by a number of images of inferiour deities. In the centre of this inner court was the place where the anu was erected, which was a lofty frame of wicker work, in shape something like an obelisk, within which the priest stood as the organ of communication from the god, whenever the king came to inquire his will in any matter of importance. On the outside, just at the entrance of it, was the place of the rere, (altar,) on which human and other sacrifices were offered. The remains of one of the pillars that supported it, were pointed out by the natives, and the pavement around was strewed with bones of men and animals, the mouldering relics of those numerous offerings once presented there. About the centre of the terrace was the spot where the king's sacred house stood, in which he resided during the season of strict tabu, and at the north end, the place which the priests' houses occupied, who, with the exception of the king, were the only persons permitted to dwell within the sacred enclosure. Holes were seen on the walls, all around this, as well as the lower terraces, where wooden idols of varied size and form formerly stood, casting their hideous stare in every direction. Tairi, or Kukairimoku, the favourite war-god of Tamehameha, was the principal idol. To him the heiau was dedicated, and for his occasional residence it was built. On the day in which he was brought within its precincts, vast offerings of fruit, hogs and dogs, were presented, and no less than eleven human victims immolated on its altars. And although the

DESCRIPTION OF A HEIAU.

53

huge pile resembles a dismantled fortress, whose frown no longer strikes terror through the surrounding country, yet it is impossible to walk over such a golgotha, or contemplate a spot which must often have resembled a pandemonium, more than any thing on earth, without a strong feeling of horrour at the recollection of the bloody and infernal rites frequently practised within its walls. Thanks be to God, the idols are destroyed! Thanks to his name, the glorious Gospel of his Son, who was manifested to destroy the works of the devil, has reached these heretofore desolate shores. May the Holy Spirit inake it the savour of life unto life to the remnant of the people.

Leaving Bukohola, Mr. Ellis, accompanied by some natives, visited Mairikini, another heiau a few hundred yards nearer the shore. It was nearly equal in dimensions to the one on the summit of the hill, but inferiour to it in every other respect. It appeared to have been literally crowded with idols, but not human sacrifices were offered to any of its gods. On returning to Mr. Young's house, Mr. E. was informed, that the vessel would sail that evening for Kairua, a circumstance he much regretted, as he hoped to spend the Sabbath at Towalhae. However, Mr. Young collected his family and neighbours together, to the number of sixty. A short exhortation was given, followed by prayer, after which Mr. E. took leave of his kind host, repaired on board, and the vessel soon after got under weigh.

13th. It was day-light before they had left Towaihae bay, as the wind during the night had been very light. The sea-breeze, however, set in early, and carried them along a rugged, barren shore of lava towards Kairua, which is distant from Towaihae about thirty miles. It being the Sabbath, Mr. E. in the afternoon preached on deck, from Mark iv, 38, 39, to a congregation of about 150 natives, including the greater part of the crew. He observed

on the route we should take, and the manner in which we should endeavour to accomplish the objects of our visit, in order that the time we intended to spend on the island might be employed to the best possible advantage.

Anxious to gain a thorough acquaintance with the circumstances of the people, and their disposition relative to missionary operations, we agreed to travel on foot from Kairua through the villages along the southern shore; to pass round the south point and continue along the south-east shore, till we should arrive at the path leading to the great volcano, situated at the foot of Mouna Roa, about twenty-five miles distant from the sea, which we thought it improper to pass unnoticed.

We proposed, after visiting the volcano, either to descend to the shore, and travel along the coast through the division of Puna, or across the interiour to the division of Hiro, as circumstances might then render most expedient. From Waiakea, in Hiro, we proposed to proceed along the eastern shore, till an opportunity should offer for part of our number to cross over the mountains of Kohala, while the rest should travel along the shore round the north point of the island, and meet their companions at Towaihae, whence they could return direct to Oahu, if an opportunity should present itself, or to Kairua, and there wait for a conveyance.

The plan of our tour being thus arranged, we were anxious to receive the aid of the Governor in the execution of it. Messrs. Thurston and Ellis were therefore chosen to wait upon him in the afternoon, to make him acquainted with our wishes, and solicit his assistance for their accomplishment.

In the course of the forenoon, two of our number visited the ruins of an old military fortification, formerly belonging to the makaainana, (common people.) It had been a place of considerable importance, while the island of Hawaii was divided into a number of independent governments under different

AN ANCIENT FORTRESS.

57

chiefs, when civil wars were frequent. All that at present remains, is a part of the wall, about twelve feet high, and fourteen feet thick at the bottom, built of lava, and apparently entire. In the upper

part of the wall are apertures resembling embrasures; but they could not have been designed for cannon, that being an engine of war, with which the natives have but recently become acquainted. The part of the wall now standing, is near the mouth of Raniakea, the spacious cavern already mentioned, which formed a valuable appendage to the fort. In this cavern children and aged persons were placed for security during an engagement, and sometimes the wives of the warriors, when they did not accompany their husbands to the battle. The fortification was probably extensive, as traces of the ancient walls are discoverable in several places; but what were its original dimensions, the natives could not tell. They asserted that the cavern, if not the fort also, was formerly surrounded by a strong palisade.

In the afternoon, Messrs. Thurston and Ellis waited on the Governor, made him acquainted with our arrangements, and solicited the accommodation of a boat or canoe to carry our baggage, and a man acquainted with the island, to act as guide and to procure provisions, offering, at the same time, any remuneration he might require for such assistance.After inquiring what baggage we intended to take, and how long we expected to be absent from Kairua, he generously offered to send a canoe as far as it could go with safety, and also to furnish a guide for the whole tour, without any remuneration whatever. He recommended that we should take a few articles for barter, as occasionally we might, perhaps, be obliged to purchase our food, or hire men to carry our baggage. After thanking him for his kindness, they returned.

About four o'clock in the afternoon, another party of musicians and dancers, attended by multitudes of people, took their station nearly on the spot occu