Chinese, Mussulmans, Hindus, etc., etc. Here we find a number of champions, who with burning zeal put themselves forward to do battle for Gaudama. We shall find work enough on board the flats to keep us busy. To take down the noisy, blustering fellows and silence them, and even to make them appear ridiculous before a crowd of their own people, is often not a difficult thing, nor can it be called (much of) a good thing. But to sit down quietly and lead them step by step in a clear and open way to see themselves ruined and lost by sin, and then to unfold to them the infinite compassion and saving grace of God in Christ Jesus, this is what we would; but, alas, what we cannot do. Lo, I am with you alway," is our only hope and comfort. Lord, if thou wilt, thou canst open these blind eyes and unstop these deaf ears, and quicken these dead souls.

Life on Board Karen Villages. Have worship, with the native Christians on board morning and evening in my cabin. There are two Burmese disciples, two Karens, one Shan, and one Chinese. My cabin is large. I have four large boxes of books, two of stores, and lots of other traps, and still room enough for eight or ten to meet in it for worship; besides, it is cool and airy. We all take our meals on the fine new flat, "Pegu;" so we have to travel across the "Col. Phayre" three or four times a day, which is not a very long or difficult journey, as good planks are thrown from the steamer to the flats.

At nearly full tide Sunday evening we entered the creek, reached the China-bukeer, one of the main branches of the Irrawadi, in four hours, where we anchored till three in the morning. At daylight we passed Day-da-yay, and other villages soon after that had a familiar look. Here are Karen Christians at different points. Mr. and Mrs. Brayton have often visited this region. Mr. Stevens and I at different times within the last six years have been to these villages with the Word of life. Many have heard, the seed has been sown. Will not even a few grains spring up

and bear fruit unto eternal life?

We soon came to the mouth of the Twantay Creek, and I think of many circumstances connected with visits to that city. At nine, A. M., we pass the large fishing town Thong-Kwah, where years ago some appeared well, but no fruit has yet matured. The villages are numerous. It looks to me that many new villages have sprung up since I was last along this stream; but it may only be that now on the upper deck of a steamer I can see many villages lying off from the river that I could not see in a small boat close to the water. Two years ago this dry season, returning from Bassein I stopped at the Karen Association just above Pantanau, where I met the Braytons and br. E. A. Stevens, and his son just arrived from America. I returned home in br. Stevens' boat, and passed down this river and stopped at some of these places. How little is the most that we can do towards visitnig all these villages.

Geographical Notes. We soon struck the broad river below Min-ka-doung island; at about four, P. M. passed the Pantanau river. This is the last deep and large branch of the Irrawadi; the Nyoung dong just above, is navigable for steamers only in the rains. The Bassein river, that breaks off from the Irrawadi ten or fifteen miles above Henthada, is a very narrow and swift stream in the dry season, and small boats only can pass. At Fingdau, twenty-five miles above Henthada, on the east bank, is a broad opening during the rains that help to swell the Hlaing river; but this is a dry bed of sand in the dry season. We passed Nyoung dong at sundown, the river broad and deep, beautiful islands, many fine villages, boats in all directions, large and small. How sweet and calm is nature in all her forms here presented! Loud and discordant sounds of Burmese music tell of feasting, merry-making, and "Koo-tho" getting at different points on shore.

At about ten, Monday evening, we arrived at Donabew and anchored for the night I had hoped we should be here for a while in daylight, to allow us to see some of the

Christians living here, and give tracts to the people. About fourteen years ago Mr. Brayton settled in this town; through him many of the Karens in this region heard the gospel for the first time, and some who heard and embraced it, are still bright lights. I have made a number of short visits to the Burmese of this town, and br. Crawley has labored a good deal here also; "sowing much and reaping little”.

our sorrow. O Lord, how long!

none. This is

Tuesday, Dec. 3. - Pass S'gah-gee, where there has been for years a flourishing Karen church, with a good ordained pastor. The country looks rich and beautiful; the river is more than a mile wide at places, with many islands and sandbanks visible at this season. Some of these islands are charming spots; they seem to have a vain and self-complacent look, a little proud of their situation. Who shall blame them, encircled by the arms and nestling in the bosom of the placid "Queen of rivers," Irrawadi? But few of these islands have people living on them, for the reason that they are nearly all covered with water in the rains, and are moreover liable to be washed away. Pleasant villages are quite numerous on the banks. No people in the world could more easily get a good living, it would seem, than those of this valley. Rice, vegetables, fruit, fish, and fowls can be procured in no country for less labor than here, if the people would only be industrious. Cheap clothing and cheap dwellings are all the people need for their comfort; and for these very reasons, doubtless, the Burmese are an indolent people.

Henthada-Memorial of Mr. Thomas. About noon pass the large Burmese town of Zalong, where there is a small Burmese church, and inland, some eight or ten miles, is another. These are the fruits of br. Crawley's faithful labors among this people. At four, P. M., we anchored two miles below Henthada; can get no nearer. Twelve years ago steamers could pass close along shore the whole length of the town. A large sand bank and island four or five miles long, now obliges them to anchor two miles below the town, and to pass it on the opposite bank of the river close in shore. Here the Thomases for twelve years have labored hard among the Karens, preaching, teaching, by Bibles, schools, and books, by music, earnest, loving words, and pleasant looks. Rich and ample has been their harvest of souls and joy. Here too, for the same length of time the Crawleys have labored among the Burmans with much real success. The Crawleys and Thomases 1 are now in Bassein, and their places filled by the Douglasses and Smiths.

Our party all, the McCalls, Mr. Hough, Mrs. Bennett, Mr. Cushing, and myself, went on shore and spent a delightful evening with the Douglasses and Smiths. Mr. Hough walked more than a mile; we feared it would make him ill, but it did not hurt him. I had arranged with br. Douglass to take with me the eloquent pastor, Ko Ing, to preach to the patricians of the royal city. Him they would respect for his age, learning, and accomplished manners, and his trenchant words and silvery notes would secure for his message a hearing. Moung Kike, a young man of no family and good health, and having lived in Mandelay, also wished to go. He seemed fitted to be such As both a man as I wanted to travel with me, wherever I might think it best to go. these men desired, I depended on their services, and did not expect to take any assistant from Rangoon.

Disappointed Plans. I learned by a telegram the day before leaving, that neither of these brethren would go. Ko Ing was in feeble health, and feared it might be too much for him. Moung Kike, on hearing that I intended to go to Bhamo, feared tigers, robbers, fevers, etc., etc. At least the journey would be very hard and difficult, and he should be very worn and weary. Indeed at first these brethren supposed Mr. Douglass would go to Mandelay for his health, as he was suffering much from his

1 This journal was written before the departure of the late Mr. Thomas.

throat; but as he concluded not to go, all was changed. I do not blame these brethren much for not going; but I was much pleased with Moung Pyon, my only assistant. On hearing of the failure of the Henthada brethren, I called him, told him my difficulty, stated my plans, and asked him if he was willing to go. He said he was willing. The Burmese have a dread of going to Bhamo, especially on account of the malignant fever that people get who go there. They also dread a journey into the Shan states, or anywhere in fact, involving hard, protracted journeying, hardship, and scanty fare.

Location of Myanoung. We left Henthada early on Wednesday morning, Dec. 4, and expected to reach Myanoung that night, but did not, however, till next day at nine, A. M. Myanoung is now the official town of the Henthada district, distant from Henthada about sixty miles in a direct line, but by the river, eighty or more. We ought to have a mission at Myanoung. It is a large town, high and dry at all times, about midway from Henthada to Prome. The surrounding population is large and thrifty, and a missionary there would have no occasion to step on the toes of br. E. O. Stevens at Prome or br. Douglass at Henthada. We stopped here three hours, had a tramp on shore, and on the new "bund," a high embankment at a distance from the river, which is to extend from Kouk toung, twenty miles above, to Pantanau river, for the purpose of preventing the waters of the Irrawadi from flooding the vast paddy lands of the Bassein district. This is a great work, carried on by Government, and if it succeeds, will be of immense benefit to the Bassein district. We did not go to the native town, and did not see many natives. Called for a short time on a gentleman whom I knew years ago, and heard of afterwards as a converted man; but I fear he is going to the "bad," two ways in one-strong drink, certain, and the next "sin of the land," not less certain.

Leave at noon and anchor for the night above Kouk toung, a high, rocky elevation and a contracting of the river's banks. Here, it is said, in the days of yore the king of Prome used to collect his "sea customs." This gives it its name, A kouk (customs, duties), and Toung (mountain). According to Burmese books, the sea once reached this place. It has travelled a long way off now.

The Arracan Mountains — Prome. All the way from Henthada we have had fine, though somewhat distant, views of the Arracan mountains. This Kouk toung, looks like a spur from that (the Arracan) range, shot off here on purpose to form a barrier to the sea, and to keep the salt water out of the royal palace at Prome, in the good old days of yore. From this point we shall see hills and mountains more or less all

the way.

Dec. 6. Friday, about two, P. M., we arrived at Prome. Friends well. Br. Simons has ceased to grow old. We dined with br. Stevens; got from him a large box of tracts to increase our supply, and a few more Bibles. Prome was for some thirteen or fourteen years the home of Dr. Kincaid. Br. Simons came here with br. Kincaid and still remains. Br. E. O. Stevens came less than two years ago. We left Prome about four, P. M., on the 7th December, but did not get far before dark; anchored for the night at the town of Ka-ma.

Dec. 8.- Sunday morning. Not long after we got under way, the steamer "Ner-budda❞ hove in sight, far in the distance, rounding a broad, low sandbank. The morning sun shining brightly, his rays were reflected in such a way as to make the steamer and flat appear like an immense floating palace. An object seen on the water, or across a broad field of white sand in the full bright glow of the early sun, displays a magnitude and splendor vastly transcending the reality. I once saw a paddy bird that seemed as tall as a tall man.

The Baptist Church at Thayet. The steamers stopped before they met, and each sent off boats. Our party sent letters for Rangoon. We arrived at Thayet about two, P. M. Br. Cushing and I went on shore at five, and had a pleasant meeting with the soldiers at seven. About thirty Christian soldiers are formed into a Baptist church. Bro. Simons baptized about twenty at one time. They have met with much opposition and many annoyances from some of their officers and the chaplain. These, however, seem to have been to them as the devil and his sieve, and they feel to thank the Lord for permitting the trials and sanctifying them to their good. These men were troubled for a place to hold meetings, and sometimes could not get a place, and could not meet. At last a nice house was built near the church, the men subscribing all they could, and some of the officers helping liberally. Gen. Briggs aided largely and used to meet with the men three times a week while he remained at the station. But Government also aided in building the house, and as it is in cantonment, it is under military authority. Through the opposition of the chaplain, this house was ordered to be closed and the keys given to him; it is now unoccupied. Their present commanding officer said these men were good men, and they had rights, and were entitled to a place of worship, and should have it. He gave them the library building, a small, but comfortable, place. But they are not allowed to hold their meeting while service is going on in "the church," which is close by. So we stood on the steps, waiting till services closed in the church, then went in and commenced ours. The room was filled, and they gave us a hearty reception. It was delightful and refreshing to us. All these men are determined to leave the army as soon as their time is up. They have learned that their dearest rights are liable to be trampled on by those who ought to defend them.

The English church and the English army both but poorly understand religious liberty, especially soul-liberty. I was pleased to come across Mr. Savial, whom I baptized years ago in Rangoon. He is a regular attendant at these meetings, and I hear him well spoken of. The weather is pleasant and delightfully cold, and all nature is bright and beautiful.

Scenery on the River. Dec. 10. Left Thayet about seven, A. M. The sky was clear, the air cold, almost piercing, the wind strong from the northwest all day. We feasted our eyes on the beautiful and ever-varying scenery that was presented to our view. The river's banks were bold, and often lined with stones and rocks; sometimes a mountain projected out into the river. The irregular surface of the country often reminds one of New England. But the trees and the foliage are not so thick, rich, and beautiful, though by a little strain of the fancy we could discern the chestnut and walnut trees with their leaves slightly gray and yellow by the first frosts of

autumn.

We did not land and climb the mountain, and if we had, I suppose we should be obliged to report "no ripe brown chestnuts and beautiful white shucked walnuts." In many places the shape of the land is very picturesque; then again it might be called a caricature of the picturesque, and then again "comically fantastic" might be used to describe it; but after all, no idea can be given like that derived from seeing. It looked at times as if a number of small mountains had been jammed up into a corner; then, as if some had been thrown down on their sides, and some turned almost over and left in that doubtful position. After living in Rangoon a dozen years, one can hardly get tired of looking at these mountains and valleys.

We passed three beautiful islands, covered with large trees and rich foliage. The villages were thick along the shores on both sides. Pagodas and kyoungs were numerous. Men, women, and children, and dogs would line the banks to see the steamer and flats, which present such a contrast to Burmese boats. We anchored for the night at Ma-lown, a large village where there is a pagoda, built in honor of the great Burmese General, Bandula.

Labors by the Way. Dec. 11.- Min-hlah. We arrived at this place about eight, A. M. This is the station where the king collects duties on exports and imports by the river. On goods shipped for Mandelay, however, duty is paid there. We all went ashore for two hours, saw many people, and gave away many books. Again after breakfast I went on shore, and talked to a large crowd of people as long as I could. We gave away in all, at Min-hlah more than 1,000 tracts, numbering in all 15,000 or 20,000 pages. The governor came on board; he appeared a plain man, disposed to make as little display as his position and Burmese ideas would admit; that little, however, is enough to make a man appear ludicrous in our eye.

The people appear poor; the large number of kyoungs they build and maintain must take much from thousands of families, really needed for their own comfort. Here is self-denial in obedience to their faith, supported and rendered cheerful by the hope of a future reward.

Did not leave till almost sundown, and soon came to anchor for the night. The moon was full; the evening was more than beautiful; everything around seemed still, grand, and vast. Our nights are very quiet. As the channel is not so well known, the Captain does not venture nights at all. Even in the day, it is difficult to keep in the channel all the time. The bed of the river is very broad, with many islands and sandbanks. The lead is constantly going; and if we get out of the channel, we feel about till we find it. Have not been aground yet, but near it several times.

Dec. 12, two, P. M.- We are now above Magwai. The beauty and variety of the scenery continue. Mr. Cushing counted over eighty pagodas along on a chain of hills, all in sight at once. How a people so miserably poor can lay out such vast sums to keep up worthless piles of brick and mortar, it is difficult to understand. I have been on shore in the king's country only at Min-hlah. The collector of the king's customs came on board with the governor. All were very civil and gave no trouble to any one. The duty is five per cent. It was formerly ten. The English frontier duty is abolished.

Indolent Burmans. The Burman seems even a more uninteresting being in the king's territory than under British rule. The Captain had difficulty to procure help to get wood put on board at Min-hlah. The wood was only fifteen or twenty feet from the vessel; he offered two rupees per 1,000 sticks (very small). An active man would have put 1,000 sticks on board in three or four hours. There were about a hundred men on the bank, idle all day, half naked and not looking too well fed; but they would not work though they could have earned four days' wages in four hours. All the houses were small and of cheap material; the people appeared smaller than those of Pegu and Tennasserim, and looked lean, dirty, and black. The dogs seemed starved to the lowest point of life. There were many swine in the town, but they too were lean and small. These unclean animals belong to the king, and are kept only as scavengers; they are not sold or killed. If they die from old age or disease, they are, I suppose, eaten by the more highly favored of the people.

Cattle of Burmah. There are many cows and bullocks in this region, and these are in good condition; many of them are fat, and this is true of horned cattle generally in Burmah. The reasons for this I have not heard given; but I would say, 1, The breed is small, short-legged, compactly built, and tough. 2, The cows are never milked, so the calf gets all the milk. 3, Plenty of good grass and water. The bullocks are used, but not overworked, and are well fed and cared for. Mr. McCall went out three or four miles from Min-hlah, and saw large herds of cows, looking nice and fat. He was told they could be bought for Rs. 10 per head; but no one would dare to sell without a royal order from the king. I do not know as all cattle are regarded as belonging to the king; but no one can sell without his order. I saw but