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season, it would take seven years to bring it into a proper state of bearing again; and although I may not go the whole length of that assertion, this much I can add, that the knife is the life and spirit of fruit trees, when well handled, but their greatest enemy, in the hands of one not capable of using it properly.

Whether in a general forcing house or in different forcing houses, either constructed on the same plan or otherwise, the sorts of fruit trees chiefly selected for forcing, consists of peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, plums, figs, and grapes.

Although I would wish to refer generally to the explanatory lists in the Fruit Grower's Instructor for more full particulars, yet I think it will not be out of place here to name some of the best sorts for forcing, such as I would choose myself. I should therefore select them thus, according to the number required: take the sorts as they stand on the lists. At the same time I am not intending by this to prejudice any other valuable and esteemed kinds, but only recom

mending such as I know to be excellent in

quality, and suitable for the purposes of forcing.

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Par. 29.-The month of November is decidedly the best in the year for planting fruit trees, and when the wood becomes tolerably firm, and the leaf falls freely, the earlier in the month the better, as they will in that early season produce fresh roots almost immediately after planting, which is of considerable importance, particularly when they are intended for immediate forcing, although in open weather they may be removed in December, January,

or February; the trees should be carefully taken up, with good full roots, and if convenient, to remove them with balls of earth, it will be of grat advantage, when intended to be forced the

same season.

The trees (except those that may be brought in with round heads in pots or otherwise, for forcing in the centre of the house) ought to be at least two years trained in the wall-tree order; and for peaches, nectarines, and apricots, where the house is chiefly to be devoted to their forcing, I would recommend one row at the back of the house, planted against a neat trellis of thin wood or wire work, fixed near to the wall, about eight or ten feet apart. These should be dwarfs, and

be careful not to plant them too deep, only thoroughly cover the roots, leaving the stem of the stock as much above ground as you conveniently can, to prevent the tree sinking below where it was budded; and if required to have the back wall covered early, some standards or half standards, with stems three or four feet high, according to the height of the house, may be planted between the dwarfs, but these should be

removed when the dwarfs require their room, as it would prove a loss rather than a gain to have them too much crowded.

The next and only other row of trees that I would recommend to be planted in the peachhouse, is along near the front path, these also previously trained as before described. The plan I am about to describe is one of the best methods I ever witnessed; have a thin iron frame-work constructed in a semicircular form, about the substance of iron hurdles generally used to protect pleasure grounds, &c. from sheep; this should be fixed along the front within ten or twelve inches of the pathway, and made to bow over the centre of the bottom of the house, supported by uprights, fixed at necessary distances along the back, near to the footpath, with strong iron wires run through the frame-work, about five or six inches apart to train the trees to; by this plan the whole of the centre of the house will be covered with fruit trees, as well as the back, and the frame-work being bowed over, it will very little obstruct the sun from the trees at the back, as the frame should be made to

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