five or six shoots, they cannot be in a better state for general planting, for their shoots likewise are formed alternately from the stem, which, when they get large, causes every limb to receive free and equal nourishment from the main stem.

As the trees will not be all fit this season, it is necessary to be careful how those are pruned which are left, in order to keep their heads young, free, and flourishing; if the stem of the tree should not be higher than you may wish it, the best way will be to trim the lower shoots clean off, leaving only the two top ones, and cut those two down to about three or four buds each; or if you wish the tree lower, you must cut it down to the two bottom shoots, and be careful when you are pruning at this season, to cut as close as you can to a bud; for what wood you leave above the bud becomes a dead substance, and if it does no other injury it greatly disfigures the tree, besides making it awkward to remove after the tree has formed a head.

The above instructions are from the time

of planting the stocks. I have allowed them to remain six years in the quarters before the ground is cleared, which I think quite long enough; therefore shall not give any further instructions for pruning while they remain in the nursery, for they would not pay for standing; neither would I recommend old trees for planting, for although old trees may grow and perhaps bear almost immediately, the fruit would not be near so fine as those produced from young trees, neither would they succeed so well in future.

OBSERVATIONS BEFORE THE GENERAL CULTI

VATION OF APPLES.

Par. 8.-It is both necessary and important to make some observations on the cultivation of apples, as it more or less affects fruit growers generally; for it is too often the case, (some for want of thought, others for want of experience) to go upon one broad plan, without studying the situation, the soil, or the different sorts of fruit which would best suit the different situations, which I shall endeavour to explain; at

the same time confine myself to a limited number of sorts, such as are most esteemed'; for to introduce two or three hundred sorts of apples, two-thirds of which are not worth growing, would only confuse the reader, and render it difficult to choose.

I shall therefore confine myself to fifty sorts, giving each their true character; for it is very necessary when you plant either in large quantities for the market, or in gardens for the use of the family, to plant such sorts as will come in succession all the year round, which will be here explained, and the different seasons when each sort is held in its highest perfection.

CULTIVATION OF DWARF APPLES.

Par. 9.-As dwarf apples are now so much cultivated, we will commence with planting untrained dwarfs in gardens. Having first selected your sorts, you must get such trees from the nursery as described in paragraph the seventh; but before you plant, you should study the situation and the soil; for although many persons are afraid to plant apples, because those of their

neighbours do not flourish, and the land does

not appear to suit them, I should not be afraid of failing to have fine trees and fine fruit in any soil, with my treatment.

Apples are fond of a deep loamy soil, and a situation where they will have plenty of sun, and where the soil is naturally good; you need not take any further trouble (where the ground is in the habit of being dug) than opening a hole sufficiently large to take the root in easily, loosening the bottom of the hole about a spade deep, and having pruned the roots, plant them in the same soil; and these you may plant in any convenient corner of the garden, the same as you would a currant or gooseberry tree, and if required will not take up more room by being properly pruned; and the same rule may be followed in the shrubbery, at such convenient distances where you can find an open place for the sun to get at the fruit; or if a piece of ground is set apart for a plantation of dwarf apples, the distance I should recommend would be about twelve feet apart, and then by keeping them properly pruned, they would have plenty

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of room to grow and receive the nourishment of the sun and air.-See Pruning.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING IN BAD SOIL.

Par. 10. I shall now give directions for planting where the apples are not fond of the soil, say the soil is of a gravelly nature, or nearly a bed of gravel.

You must open a hole at least three feet square and three feet deep, bring in some soil bordering on clay, and put at bottom (which will keep cool) about one foot thick, then fill up the other two feet with rich loam, and plant your tree right in the centre.

This it may be said is a great deal of trouble, but what is a garden without an apple tree?—and when once done they will last for many years, either in gravelly or sandy soil, in neither of which apples will do well alone.

It is under the above treatment indispensably necessary to study the sort of stock your apple is grafted on; it should be the small Paradise stock, for apples grafted on these stocks will bloom beautifully and produce fruit even in pots,

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