with great difficulty that I obtained silence, which being done, I made known in few words the object of my intended visit to the interior. I had spoken only a few sentences when one of the gentlemen remarked that the majority of the people who had come to market were very ignorant; that it was useless for me to speak to them, and that I had better wait till I reached the Bwengga district, and then speak to the gentlemen, who would listen attentively to all I had to say. I replied that if they were ignorant, the good word which I intended to speak would make them wise. As soon as the poor women heard this they manifested their approbation by loud applause, and shortly after proceeded homeward, while I accompanied John King to his farm, which is in the vicinity of the Bwengga Market. At a quarter after three our party left John King's farm for the Bwengga district, and after walking a short time along a track, reached the main road. This path, though walked over every five days by hundreds of people, is very narrow, and in many parts is a mere track. It runs for the most part through a thicket, by which the clouds are frequently obscured, and as a walk is entirely devoid of interest. At five minutes before four we ascended a very steep hill, from which time the country became rather hilly. Five minutes after four we took a short rest, and proceeding on our journey ascended another steep hill at half past four, from which we had a view of The sea; and had it not been for the mist, ould, I understand, have seen Cape Camaroon. At five o'clock we came in sight of a ver, which John King informed me empties elf in the sea near his town. Here our whole party refreshed themselves with a good draught of water, which was very cool and pleasant. During our journey we passed two or three farms near the road, on which plantains are chiefly cultivated. I was informed by John King that a few people are living in the bush near the farms. him. I however think that if not his father's or mother's child, Ebore is a near kinsman. We met Ebore sitting on a stone near the door of his house, in conversation with one of his wives, who appears very fond of him, and for whom I think Ebore entertains much affection. Such reciprocal affection between husband and wife was to me very gratifying, as in my few short tours in Africa I have seldom seen it exhibited. The women are for the most part regarded and treated as the slaves of their husbands, who possess unlimited power over them, and do with them just what they please. When I was informed on my arrival at Ebore's Town that he was the king of the place, I at first thought he was the ruler of the whole Bwengga district, but I soon discovered my mistake, and found that he was only king or ruler over his own wives and children. The mode of government in this part of Africa is strictly patriarchal. I was kindly received by Ebore, and having seated myself near him, he began to expatiate on the great joy and pleasure which he experienced in being visited by a white man-an honour which he never expected, and which his father, though much more wealthy than he, never enjoyed. He admired also my fearlessness, and said that my heart must be very big, or I would never have come where a single white man had never before set foot. Shortly after my arrival I was saluted by the firing of muskets not only at Ebore's place, but at some distant town, whose inhabitants must have concluded that I had arrived, from the report of guns which they heard from Ebore's town. After dinner, which consisted of palm oil and fish, and plantain, of which I eat heartily after my unusually long walk, I addressed the people, and endeavoured to point out as plainly as I could the way of salvation by Christ. My auditors listened patiently for a long time, and while I spoke Ebore frequently exclaimed, "Toto-mene! toto-mene!" True! true! When I aliuded to the folly of trusting to charms for deliverance in times of danger, he remarked that what I said was quite At six o'clock we arrived at a group of correct, for several men who had received houses, called by John King a town, when I charms to preserve them from danger and discovered that Bwengga was not a large death, had to his knowledge been shot, and town or city, as I had all along imagined, but that God alone could protect and save. At a district, or sort of county, in which are the close of my address I sang "Jesus shall many towns. Our party sat down at this reign," &c., and concluded with prayer. town to rest. Soon many of the children When I was ready to go to bed, I was conwere around me, while some, afraid of a white ducted to a room about ten feet long, five and face, remained at a distance, with their a half wide, and seven feet high to the top of eyes riveted on me. After being regaled the roof. As my bed was placed across the with a draught of palm wine our party pro- room, my head laid against one side of the ceeded onward, and passing another town wall while my feet reached the other side; which consisted of four or five houses, arrived yet I slept comfortably, and hope I felt grateat our resting place for the night at a quarter ful to God for having provided for me a shelpast six. The chief, or master of this town, ter among the heathen. Ebore accompanied is called Ebore, and according to John King's account is his brother; but during our journey John claimed brotherhood to so many that it is difficult to say who are really related to me to the room, and remained while I read a portion of scripture and prayed, and during prayer knelt down. On rising from my knees I told him my reasons for reading the word of God, and praying to him before retiring to rest. As I found Ebore disinclined to leave the room, I undressed myself before him. He was quite surprised at the number of garments I wore, and viewed me from head to foot till I got into bed. Wednesday, April 24. As soon as the door of my room was opened this morning, Ebore came to pay his respects, and addressed me "Sanggwosu," the term used by servants when speaking to their masters. Before breakfast I read and explained to Copper and John King, both of whom speak and understand English, the second chapter of Matthew. Ebore came in while I was reading, and heard from John King and Copper what I communicated to them. After explaining the scriptures, I showed Ebore the views of our Jamaica chapels, and told him of the affection which the people of God in Jamaica entertained for the African race. He listened with much attention and astonishment when I told him of the vast sums of money subscribed by the Christian world for the benefit of Africa, and said that if the people of God did not love them they would never act in that manner. heart to God I meant a man was to cut out his heart. He next inquired whether God had a wife, and while I was speaking of the blessedness of heaven, he asked how it could be a good country when the people who lived there did not eat. I explained to him that the spirit was not supported by food-that the body alone required food for its sustentation, and that after death the spirit of those who believed in Christ would live in the enjoy ment of the knowledge and love of God. In returning to Ebore's Town we walked another way, and passed the town of an old man named Dume, who appeared very glad to see me. My soul was distressed when I thought that he would probably die before the gospel could be fully and properly explained to him. I saw several women at Ebore's Town engaged in making palm oil to-day. The palm nut, or fruit, is first boiled, after which the part which contains the oil is separated from the kernel, and rolled up in small balls, from which the oil is extracted by twisting it with the fingers. A great deal of oil is left in the husk, which with suitable machinery might be entirely extracted. We were to have proceeded on our journey to-day, but Ebore would not allow us to do so. In the evening I conversed again with the people about Christ and his salvation, when Ebore remarked that he believed God had sent me among them to teach them good things, and that he would willingly sit up all night to hear me. Before retiring to rest I made Ebore a present of cloth and other things, for which he expressed himself very grateful. Ebore is about forty years of age, of the middle stature, but appears short in consequence of a bend of the back. His appearance is not calculated to command respect, but there is in him a great deal of real kindness, connected with humility, which cannot fail to excite the affections of those that may become acquainted with him. There is, I fear, little firmness in his character, which would render him an unfit person to depend upon in times of trouble or danger. Unlike Ebore, Futa seems a man of great firmness and decision of character. His manner and bearing, though the reverse of pride, are much calculated to call forth respect, and with his property (for he is considered wealthy) will render him influential wherever he goes. Futa is about the same age as Ebore-perhaps a little older-of the middle stature, and rather slender, but well made. After breakfast John King and Copper, Smith and I, proceeded to the town of a man called Futa, and sometimes, Madiba, a short distance to the south-east of Ebore's place. On our arrival we learnt that he was not at home, but would soon return. I afterwards discovered that he was at the back part of his house, and directed John King to tell me he was out, intending while we walked a little way to dress himself. After a short walk to another town, where Mundere, the brother of Madiba resides, we returned to Madiba's house, when he made his appearance in a cloth round jacket, a pretty wrapper, and a blue gossamer hat. He was rather reserved and formal, but listened with much attention to the truths which I declared. From the appearance and mien of Futa I concluded that he was a man of influence, and generally respected, and have since discovered that my conclusion is quite correct. Madiba's town is situated on a beautiful plain on the top of a hill. One of his houses is a large one compared with the houses of the other chiefs, and is very well constructed. He is evidently an ingenious man, and with a little instruction would make an excellent carpenter. While at Madiba's house I tendered my hand to a man who refused to shake it, and on inquiring the reason, learnt that the man had recently lost one of his relations, and that the people in the interior never shake hands with their We were to have proceeded this morning dearest friends for a certain time after the to the Sofo district, but yesterday evening death of a near relative. we heard that an influential and wealthy old man in the Moriko district named Manja had made grand preparations for my reception, and sent to say he hoped I would not fail to call on him. As John King John King asked a question to-day which shows the necessity of explaining figurative language, when employed in instructing the people. He inquired whether by giving the Thursday, April 25. thought it prudent for us to visit Manja, we | learn from a distance, to whom I explained the object of my visit. In the afternoon Copper and I walked to the town of Junge, a short distance west of Manja's place, where I conversed for some time about the great salvation, and instructed the people from my Isubu lesson. They called my watch the moon, and said I was indeed a god-man, for I had gone up to God, and brought down the moon with me. left for his place at twenty-five minutes after six this morning. Shortly after leaving Ebore's we passed three small towns, and crossed a small stream called Wangge, running from the west. Indeed, all the rivers which we saw and crossed in our journey, flowed from the north-west. At a quarter after seven we crossed a beautiful stream about thirty yards wide, called Benyua, in which a large artificial basin was formed of stones for the purpose of securing fishes. Our road at this point lay through a thick bush, and is evidently an unfrequented path. At fifteen minutes to eight we entered the Bori-pamba district, and passed Mbumbo's Town. Three minutes after eight we passed another stream called the Ndunggu, and shortly after saw a small farm on which maize, cocoa, and peas were growing. Passed the towns of Korame, Mukwure, Malape, and Monyunggo, and entered the Bakuku district. Passed the town of Masu, and at five minutes after nine arrived at Manja's Town, in the Moriko* district, and seated myself under a tree, where a short time came to see me. He was dressed in a large great coat, which would have sat much better on a man twice his size. His hand was quite hidden by his arge garment, so that when he presented it to me I had to shake his sleeve. old Manja On my return from Junge's place, Smith and I took a long walk, and spent a sweet season in conversation about the universal dominion of Christ. Since my arrival in Africa nothing administers more joy to my soul than reflection or conversation respecting the entire subjugation of the nations of the earth to our divine Redeemer. Indeed, if missionaries would be strengthened for their work they must at all times keep the cheering truth before their minds. John King informed me this afternoon that the men who came from the Bwea district said they would not conduct me to their town without being well paid; but on finding that I evinced no anxiety about going thither, they left with the promise of meeting me at Manja's Town early in the morning. African travellers must pay little attention to the talk and noise of the people, but act with kindness, firmness, prudence, and justice. Before going to bed I made old Manja a present of cloth, &c., with which he was quite pleased. I also distributed some needles among the women and girls, and clothed three of Manja's children, who were not a little delighted with their new garb. Both at Ebore's and Manja's place I distributed some English peas, which were kindly sent me by the St. Alban's friends. When at Camaroons I also distributed some of the same peas, and have no doubt that by this time many of the Diwalla people have reaped a crop. Friday, April 26. I had not been seated long before I was informed that two gentlemen from Bwea, one of the last districts on the way to the Camaroons Mountains, had come down to see me, having understood that I had come for the purpose of visiting the mountain. I exceed. ingly regret that whenever the people asked John King the object of my visit, he always formed them that I was going to the mountam, which led them to think I was in quest of treasures. Indeed, John King himself did not believe that the sole object of my visit was to make known the gospel of salvation, and and out the most eligible districts for establishing missionary stations. We were to have left Manja's Town After a few minutes conversation with early this morning, but were detained by Manja, he left, but soon returned with a goat heavy rains till twelve o'clock, when we a present. I directed John King to have proceeded on our journey. At twenty-five killed for our party, and began to declare minutes after twelve we entered the Bokwei the gospel to the people who surrounded me, district, and at the same time passed the town but they seemed more desirous to gaze upon of Namunde. Shortly after we passed Morio's me and make a noise, than to listen to the Town. At one o'clock the country became declaring. After break- very hilly. We arrived at Dickenye's Town fast I endeavoured again to engage the at half-past one, which is situated in the people's attention, but could not get them to Bwea district. I was kindly received by en for any length of time. They were, Dickenye, who appeared very happy to see however, quite delighted with an Isubu lesson me, and like Ebore, dwelt for a long time on solemn truths I was teaching the children as I passed along, and visit of a white man. I however soon diswere exceedingly astonished when I exhibited covered that great suspicions were entertained my watch. Many people from other districts respecting my intended visit to the mountain, resorted to object of my visit, took Smith aside and The Moriko and Bakuku district is the same, questioned him closely on the subject. Shortly after my arrival Dickenye told John King but is called by two names. water" self at the point from whence you started, and the objections which you had before answered again brought forward as if they were entirely new. This was the ordeal through which I had to pass at Dickenye's place, and what rendered it more trying was my ignorance of the language, and consequent dependence on John King and Copper for an interpretation of all that was said. The palaver being closed I retired to rest after commending myself and our party to the divine protection, and as usual slept well. that there were immense treasures on the in debate has been brought to a close, and about mountain, that on the death of any influential to be settled, all on a sudden you find yourperson in the Bwea district they had frequently seen cloths of every description spread out on the mountain ;* that there was a great deal of gunpowder, salt, and dollars on the mountain, and they thanked John King for bringing me to show them how to obtain the treasures. There was also a "large on the mountain, where a white man was often seen, and which no black man could pass; that they sometimes heard the report of guns fired by the white man; that that white man was my brother, and I had come to see him, and fetch him down from the mountain. In vain I endeavoured to persuade them that the sole object of my visit was to impart the knowledge of the true God, and to learn whether they were willing to receive religious teachers. During the day I embraced every opportunity of declaring the gospel, but like those of Manja's Town, the Bwea people were more desirous to sing, and dance, and make a noise, than attend to what I had to say. me. In the afternoon several chiefs came to see After they had listened to the truth a short time, Dickenye, who is an incessant talker, began to address the people, after which he danced about, and endeavoured to appear very great. He was followed by another man, who wore a sort of tippet made by himself. He also delivered an address, and like Dickenye, danced and sung, and capered about amidst the applause of the surrounding multitude. As evening approached John King informed me that all the gentlemen of the district were to assemble after dark in order to come to some decision respecting the charge they were to make for allowing me to visit the mountain. Accordingly we had a meeting in one of Dickenye's houses in the evening, when all the gentlemen strenuously maintained that there were incalculable treasures on the mountain, and that John King had brought me to obtain them. I replied that many of them would on the morrow accompany me to the mountain, and would have an opportunity of seeing all it contained, and that whatever I might bring down they were at perfect liberty to retain. During my short life I have met many great talkers, but never before heard so garrulous a man as Dickenye. He seems never tired of chatting, and will scarcely allow any one else to speak a word. None but those who have been engaged in an African palavert can form a correct idea of its tediousness. When you imagine that the subject * Whenever an Isubu man dies all the cloth he possesses is spread out on the house-top, and exposed to public view. In accordance with this custom the Bwea men think that the genii of the mountains entertain so much respect for their chiefs Saturday, April 27. At We were to have started before daylight, but could not manage to get away before fifteen minutes before seven. It is very difficult to get an uncivilized African band to travel early. On my arrival at Dickenye's I was informed that his town was the nearest to the mountain in the Bwea district, but I discovered this morning that my information was not correct. Shortly after leaving Dickenye's we passed three towns, all near each other, and arrived at the last town on the way to the mountain at a quarter after seven. this time we saw a road to the south, which I was informed leads to Rumby. At fifteen minutes to eight we arrived at a river flowing from the north-west in a south-westerly direc tion. At this point there was a sensible change in the atmosphere. I drank of the water of the river, whose bed was very rocky, and found it delightfully cool. Near the river is a small abandoned farm, which was formerly cultivated by some of the Bwea people. Before visiting the interior I thought the people spent a great deal of their time in agricultural pursuits, but was surprised during my journey to see so few farms, and those so much neglected. All the plantain farms I saw were covered with grass and bush. Like those on the coast, the people in the country live a life of almost absolute idleness. They do not set the smallest value on time, and prefer spending days and weeks in hunting (though they not unfrequently return home as empty as they went out) to cultivating the soil. May they soon come under the influence of that gospel which so strongly condemns idleness, and inculcates the necessity of industrious habits. But to resume our narrative. At eight o'clock the Bwea men who accompanied me stopped to perform a ceremony called Mosere. Dickenye's brother, Bunggome, with a mug of water in his hand, delivered an address to the following effect: "That the Moriko and Bwengga men were unwilling that the Bwea people should engage in trade with Bimbia, but that John King had kindly brought a white man to see them, who he hoped would open a communication between the coast and the Bwea district. After the address & liba 8 tion was poured out on the ground, and the remainder of the water in the mug drank by all who had engaged in the ceremony. I requested John King to say to them that the good word which I had spoken to them was calculated to unite all people in one common bond, and if they and the Moriko and Bwengga people attended to it, instead of opposing each other in trade, they would live as breth ren, and do all in their power to promote the welfare of one another. They appeared quite pleased with my remarks, and proceeded on the journey with smiling countenances. A quarter before eleven we had an extensive and splendid view of the sea, rivers, and lowlands from the plain at the base of the mountain. We saw very distinctly Balimba Point and River, and a little eastward the Bakuku, Munggo, and Bunji rivers and country. At ten minutes after eleven our band sat down on the grassy plain to hold a consultation as to whether they should ascend the mountain at whose height and majestic aspect they were manifestly alarmed. While with wonder and awe they gazed upon the grand and lofty fabric, Smith observed that if they were so alarmed at beholding the works of the Almighty, what would be the state of their mind when they beheld the Almighty himself on the judgment day? John King, who had all along spoken of his determination to go to the very apex of the mountain, now declared that he could not proceed further; while the Bwea men said it was useless to accompany me if no treasures were to be obtained. I reminded them that I had agreed to pay them to go with me, and if they broke their engagement they could not expect payment. At length ten of the Bwea men made up their minds to accompany me, and with Smith, Copper, and myself started for the much dreaded munggo, as mountain is called in the Isubu tongue. With much difficulty we ascended about a third of the mountain at six minutes after one, where it was so cold that I judged it unwise to proceed higher with men who had only a piece of cloth around their loins. This, with other reasons, induced me to descend the mountain before reaching its apex, though I must confess I did so very reluctantly. At the elevation on which I stood I experienced all the sensations produced by an English winter. My nostrils ran copiously, my eyes were much affected, and my fingers stiff. The faces of my attendants were covered with a sort of white incrustation, such as may be seen on the skins of black men in England during winter; their eyes were also much affected, and Dickenye's brother had a fit of ague, and trembled like an aspen leaf. The mountain after a certain height (perhaps from about the sixth of its altitude from the base) is entirely covered with a fine and beautifully green grass, with here and there a few shrubs. The soil is composed of small pieces of soft stone, which have evidently been subject to the action of fire, and which frequently crumbled or resigned their places as the weight of our bodies rested upon them in ascending. From the point on which we stood we had an excellent view of the lowlands and the different rivers in the Bight of Biafra. A few minutes before the Mosere ceremony was performed, we crossed a fine stream, whose water was very cold. At twenty minutes before ten we arrived at another river-course destitute of water, except a small portion (rain water I suppose) in hollows of rocks, and which reminded me of the pools of rain-water from which the Israelites were wont to refresh themselves in the journeys to the holy city. Our whole party took a long draught of water here, as we were given to understand that we should meet with no more during the remainder of our journey. Ten minutes before ten we had an excellent view of the sea. Perhaps it is necessary to observe that the whole district through which we passed is very well furnished with hardwood. The wood is so hard that the Bwea men, not possessing proper axes, are unable to fell the trees for the purpose of making farms. Eight minutes after ten we passed the last farm of the Bwea people on the way to the CamaToons Mountains. On this farm is growing the finest piece of cocoa I have seen since my arrival in Africa. I was rather surprised that the Bea people should cultivate farms so far from their towns, and thought they must have good reason for doing so, and on inquiry found that they were in the habit of spending whole weeks in the woods hunting the ngika, or buffaloe, and during that time cultivated the soil in the vicinity of the chase. Twenty-five minutes before eleven the brother of Dickenye perceiving that we were drawing near the mountain, broke a small bush, and holding it in his hand, prayed aloud to his dead father and mother to protect him from danger in approaching the mountain. I directed John King to tell him that Obassa-Luba (the name by which the Deity is called) alone could afford him help, and that his petitions should have been presented to him. On hearing this he began to cry to Obassa-Luba for help. The evident fear of the people as they drew near the mountain led me to conclude that they had never before travelled so far, though they wished to make me believe that many of them had before ascended the mountain. At We began to descend the mountain about a twenty minutes before eleven we arrived at a quarter after one, and arrived at the grassy beautiful plain, extending along the base of the plain at ten minutes before three, from whence, mountain a considerable way. This plain is though much fatigued, we immediately procovered with a fine wing-grass, some of which ceeded homeward. When we had nearly I brought down as a memorial of my visit. reached our resting place the Bwea men |