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appearance seemed to afford pleasure and information. Dining in the midst of a select company of literary friends, the question was put, whether I meant to publish? More in banter, than with serious project, I replied it would depend on the patronage and advice of such friends. The reply was encouraging, and the decision was taken. I then little conjectured whereunto this would grow.

It was, then, no ambition of mine to enter the lists with Howitt, to follow Bulwer, or rival Talfourd; and now, haud paribus passibus, I would pursue the track which they have trod, while I claim some distinction from them in the principles of our creed, and the moral tendency of our observations. I meant, from the first, to indicate how the scenes and associations strike a Christian. I was also solicitous to accumulate local and historical information, rather than poetical descants or theological disquisitions. I have therefore corrected, as well as recollected; investigated, as well as surveyed; and collected, as well as recited, the traditions and legends of those famed regions. Yet, had I contemplated inquiries so elaborate and diversified as have followed, I should have shrunk from the task, and doubted the wisdom of such an undertaking.

One-third of my manuscript remains a sealed book to the readers of this volume; which I regret having been compelled to reserve, since it contains what was to myself a peculiarly interesting portion of my travels and inquiries. The capital of Prussia and its royal residences, with its metropolitan institutions and political relations;—the capital of Saxony and its almost classical monuments and antiquities, with the kindred associations and historical relationships of the race from whom Englishmen have

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sprung; the great highway from Saxon Switzerland, along the Elbe to Hanseatic Hamburg, afforded to me scope for much varied observation, incidents, and adventure. I wished also to understand the religious condition of Germany, and had ventured some speculations on the phenomena which were then developing and have since appeared. Nor did I feel that I could do justice to the people of the Jewish nation, except in a separate paper in which their habits, worship, position, and prospects were severally considered. The limits of my volume have precluded even an abridgement of such discussions, and they are deferred.

Many kind and thoughtful friends have cheered me on in the preparation of this, alas! too desultory volume, and encouraged me to hope that they will look with a candid. and indulgent eye on its pages. For their generous and seasonable countenance I feel truly grateful, and return to them the liveliest and most affectionate assurances of gratude and consideration. It might be deemed an ostentatious parade were I to record the names of numerous friends who have long ago subscribed, so as to insure the issue of the volume, and give assurance of their confidence in the principles and integrity of the author. The remembrance of such friendships will be treasured in my own bosom, and inculcated on those who will not despise a parent's counsel, or a father's friend.

It has been my solicitude to render the work not unworthy of the favour which has been evinced, and useful as well as pleasing to those who may peruse its pages. I have, therefore, not merely revised-I have written again. nearly every paragraph since it was announced for the

press; I have also added much historical and descrptive matter. The Lectures which I delivered were the occasion of the publication, rather than either the substance or details of its statements; and in no instance has it been anticipated by the epitomes which appeared through the kind partiality of the editors of London and Manchester journals.

The recent visit of the beloved monarch of the British Isles to Germany, served to call public attention to the scenery and people of that land; and it gratified me to observe that the many interesting and elaborate descriptions given in the daily press, of the regions through which the Queen passed, were not only correctly written, but eagerly received, and did but increase the kindly feelings which should subsist between nations. Much of what was then described, to meet the ephemeral demand, will be traced in the subsequent pages, written without any reference to the progress of royal personages, and as seen and admired not amid the trappings, turmoil, and pageantry of princely retinues, but while one has leisure to survey, and no momentary purpose to serve. I hope, too, it will be considered as presented in a more convenient form, as it is adapted for permanent reference and perusal. Yet I am conscious that, as a performance, much imperfection adheres to my work, for which I crave the forbearance of indulgent critics.


Elder cities of Flanders-Modern capital of Belgium-Political

and moral aspect of the people

Dunkirk-Nieuport-Ostend-Passports and Tahiti-Mechlin-Cathedrals
V.-Iconoclasts - Causes of decay-Antwerp Exchange-Reverses of
Antwerp-Inquisition-Cathedral-Rubens-Devotion of Art-Brus-
sels-Feminine attire-Anglican Chapels-Tindale a heretic-What is
wanted-Mary and her crown-A legendary name.

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Modern Belgian cities-Church Establishments-Papal persecu-

tions-Reformation suppressed-Manufactures — Missionary

Page 52

Brussels carpets-Lace, etc.-Literary piracy-Bookselling-Public park
-La Bagatelle-Clerical influence-Protestant clergy-Belgian Non-
conformity-The Confessor's death-The precious Bible-General edu-
cation-Louvain-Protestant missions-Wordsworth-Namur, the Bel-
gian Sheffield-John Cockerill-Charles the Bold-Benefits of trade-
Progress of truth-Encouraging tokens Spa, its environs - Belgian
railway-Aix la Chapelle-Prevalence of popery.

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Timber rafts-Dort-Continental railways-Spare beds-Streets of Co-
logne-Fighting prelates-Cathedral of Cologne-Greatness in design-
The three kings-Relic-seeing fees-Pageantry and delusion-Deposed
archbishop-Reliquary-Antiquities - Canonization of St. Ursula-A
Hanse town-Mercantile changes-The Medicis-Eau de Cologne-
Bonn-Universities-German Students-Orgies-Niebuhr's grave-
Beethoven-The Siegenberg-Drachenfels-Juice of the grape.

Cities of the Rhine-The Moselle-Trade of the Middle Ages-

Monastic institutions-Feudal powers-Mercantile democracy,

Page 166

Bridge of boats-Vine proprietors-Mummied Monks-Fearless worship
-A boat sail-A deserted nunnery-Robber lords- An amateur echoist
-Sign of the Cross-Antique memorials-Coblenz-Ehrenbreitstein-
Love and war-A mid-day reverie-Monument of victory-A winding
river-Abbey of Prum-Cathedral of Treves-Palace of Constantine-
Gladiatorial combats-Roman amphitheatre-The net-catcher-Frag-
ments-Bridge of the Moselle-The Coat of Treves-Pilgrimage and
absolution-Pilgrims of the coat-The rebound of inquiry-The finale
-Ronge's rebuke-The appeal-The contest-Early awakenings-The
youth of Ronge-Predisposing causes-A Reformer's costume-Refusals
to retract-Banks of the Moselle-Thronus Bacchi-A feudal relic-
Reliquary worship—A defective sermon.

The cities of the Rhine-Antique remains-Historical associa-

tions-Free trade-Invention of printing-Free thought-Free

Page 248

Neuwied A buried city-Floating flour-mills-Monuments of tyranny-
A storm on the Rhine-The bishop and the rats-Mayence-The Se-
neschal's revenue-Garrison of Mayence - Prelates and wine-The
League The land of joy-The Jews at Worms-Private judgment—
Frankenthal-A peaceful town-Palace of Karl Philip-The soldier's
pastime-Mannheim-Schiller-The fugitive author-Military incen-
diarism-Spires-The tomb of princes-Heidelberg-The valley of the
Neckar-The eccentric artist-The mountain ramble-The student's
sympathies-The funeral-Funeral reflections.

The Baths of Germany-Bubbles of the Spa-Bad Ems-The

Serpent's Bath-The Langen-Schwalbach-Wiesbaden, and the

Baden baths
Page 298

A soldier's love-The bubble-blower-The Duke's police-Nassau-The
Baths-The reddening-bath-The legend of the cow-The bath lodging

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