us we had only to give him two francs each, and one for himself, and he would be content; the rogue took the money without a word. * paintings on the glass, also tend to increase the general gloomy appearance. The statue of St. Bartholomew, within the caMilan, where we now are, is considered, next thedral, is considered as a chef-d'œuvre-but the to Rome and Naples, one of the largest cities of subject is frightful-the martyr is represented just Italy. It was the ancient Mediolanum; and in the act of being flayed alive-the skin hangs was founded as early as Tarquinius Priscus, 670 down loose like a garment behind him. Two years before Christ. It was the capital of Bona-pulpits in the choir much pleased us. They are parte's kingdom of Italy, and is now the joint- of fine bronze, each running round an immense capital with Venicet of the Italian dominions of pillar, like a gallery; one is supported with adthe emperor of Austria. It has nearly one hun-mirable figures of Cyprian, Ambrose, Austin, and dred and fifty thousand inhabitants; the outer Jerome; and the other, by the four mysterious wall is ten miles in circuit, and it is one of the very animals of Ezekiel. The tomb of Carlo Borrofew great cities not built on a river. The Adda meo is most splendid. It is a room of silver gilt, and Tesin, however, communicate with it by ca- and contains a superb altar, and the history, in nals. We are at the Royal Hotel, and are ex-bas-relief, of the chief events of his life-beyond tremely well accommodated. The landlord tells us that his servants have, during the last nine years, perfectly learned the English taste. Immediately after our arrival, we hastened to see the celebrated cathedral, built of white marble, the grandest and most imposing specimen of Gothic architecture now remaining; and the finest church in Europe, after St. Peter's at Rome, and St. Paul's at London. It is also the largest in Italy, next to St. Peter's. It is four hundred and forty-nine feet long, two hundred and seventyfive wide, and two hundred and thirty-eight high. It was begun in 1386, and is yet unfinished; but, strange to say, Bonaparte did more to complete it in a few years, than had been done in three hundred previous or than will be done, perhaps, in three hundred to come. This noble edifice, as you first approach it, bursts upon the eye most majestically. The façade is magnificent, and the three other sides are hardly inferior. The immense mass of perfectly white marble, of which it is built, its amazing size, the labor manifest in its several parts, and the exquisite finish of the ornaments and statues which adorn it, fill the mind of a stranger with admiration. We gained the best idea of the beauties of its alabaster walls by going up on the roof, which is itself covered with slabs of marble. We then saw quite closely the fret-work, the carving, and the sculpture, and marked the grace of the figures, and the symmetry and elegance of each pinnacle. Above the dome there rises an elegant tower, like an obelisk. We walked up stairs of marble, we leaned on balustrades of marble, we passed through galleries of marble; whilst the walls were literally studded with statues, and every niche filled with its archbishop or saint there are in all more than four thousand figures. The fact is, as marble is obtained with ease and in great abundance in Italy, and admits of nicer workmanship than stone, the full benefit has been taken of these advantages. The interior of the building, however, is obscured with dust and smoke, and incense, and burning lamps; so that it does not look nearly so handsome as the outside. The smallness of the windows, and the Milan is about ten miles in circumference; Naples fifteen, besides seven large suburbs, and contains 450,000 inhabitants; Rome is thirteen miles, within the circuit of its walls. + Milan and Venice are placed on a par with each other. conception magnificent. The shrine is of rock crystal. The summit of the tower of the cathedral presents a beautiful and extensive view of the city and plain of Milan; with its rivers, gardens, groves, vineyards, and numerous towns; bounded by the neighboring Alps, and more remote Apennines. Still all is an entire flat; the plain of fair Italy. In this respect, Switzerland, dear Switzerland, far surpasses it. As we approached Milan, a small hedge in the road was sufficient to conceal the whole of the place from us. The town has some fine streets, with handsome foot-pavements; but as it is very ancient, most of the streets are narrow, and irregularly built. Its superb private edifices and palaces are but few; in these it yields, not only to Rome and Genoa, but to Florence. I observe all is done to keep out the heat: the shops have no windows; curtains hang on the outside of the doors; the people come out chiefly in the evening; and on great festivals they ascend the roof of their cathedral, and pass their evenings in the coolness which it furnishes. The streets have two single rows of flags, in the middle, for the wheels of the carriages, and sometimes double sets. The windows have three shutters: first, Venetian; then glass; then, on the inside, wood, to exclude the hot air. Sunday morning, Sept. 14.-This is one of my melancholy Sundays. An immense Catholic town of one hundred and fifty thousand souls→→→ the ecclesiastical apparatus enormous; about two hundred churches, eighty convents,* and one hundred religious houses-compare this with the Protestant establishments of Birmingham or Manchester, which fall as far short of what such a crowded population fairly demands, as the Milan establishment exceeds it. We might surely learn something in England of the duty of greater zeal and attention to our pure form of Christianity, from the excessive diligence of the Catholics in their corrupt superstitions. I feel a peculiar veneration for Milan on two accounts: St. Ambrose, whom Milner dwells on with such commendations, was the light of this city in the fourth century; Carlo Borromeo, whose benevolence exceeds all description, was archbishop here in the sixteenth. This last I know at present little of; but Ambrose was one of the most humble and spiritual of the fathers of * One hundred and fourteen convents are said to have been suppressed by Napoleon. the church, two or three centuries before Popery, properly speaking, began. In this city Ambrose preached; it was here Austin heard him, attracted by the fame of his eloquence. It was here also, that Angilbertus, bishop of Milan in the ninth century, refused to own the supremacy of the Pope; indeed, the church of Milan did not submit to the Roman see till two hundred years afterwards. May God raise up another Ambrose to purify and recall the city and churches, which he instructed thirteen or fourteen centuries ago! Nothing is impossible with God; but Popery seems to infatuate this people. On the church of Milan notices are affixed, that whoever causes a mass to be said there, may deliver any one he chooses from purgatory. In the mean time, this debasing superstition goes hand in hand with secret infidelity and unblushing vice. But once more adieu. May God make me prize more the essence of Christianity, and dwell less on those adventitious circumstances which are so soon carried to excess, or converted to superstition! The Gospel in its simplicity, power, holiness, and love, is all in all. Here we cannot be too earnest, too fervent, too watchful. Other things are valuable as they promote this, and only as they do so. If they obscure or supersede what they ought to aid and adorn, they become pernicious and even destructive. I am yours, NOTICE OF ST. AMBROSE. D. W. still many persons of distinction in the city remained Pagans, especially amongst the senators. The tradition, therefore, as to his cathedral, mentioned in my next letter, may be considered authentic. His conduct towards the emperor Theodosius has deservedly raised his character in all succeeding ages. The emperor professed Christianity, and in the main is thought to have been a decidedly pious prince; but he was of a passionate temper, and the inhabitants of Thessalonica hav. ing, in a tumult, put to death one of his officers, he signed a warrant for military execution, though he had previously promised Ambrose to forgive them. In three hours seven thousand persons, without trial and without distinction, were massacred. The Bishop upon this refused to admit Theodosius into the church of Milan for more than eight months, and then only after doing public penance. Mr. Addison, who travelled in Italy in 1699 and 1700, says, he was shown the gate of a church that St. Ambrose shut against the emperor. No such entrance was pointed out to us, probably from the neglect of our guide; for the tradition itself of such pieces of local history is commonly indelible. But it is as the instructor of his great convert, St. Augustine, or Austin, that I most cherish the memory of Ambrose. Austin was sunk in the depths of Manichæism, when about the year 384, and the 30th of his age, a requisition was made from Milan to the prefect of Rome, where he then resided, to send a professor of rhetoric to that city. Austin obtained this honorable appointment. He sought the acquaintance of Ambrose because he was skilful in rhetoric. Ambrose received him Ambrose was one of the brightest luminaries like a father, and Austin conceived an affection of the fourth century. He was born in the year for him, not as a teacher of truth, which he had 338, and was educated for the law. The emperor no idea of discovering in the Christian church, but Valentinian appointed him judge at Milan, A. D. as a man kind to him; and he studiously attended 374, where he became renowned for prudence his lectures, only with a curious desire of discoverand justice, during five years. At the end of that ing whether fame had done justice to his eloquence time, a tumult having arisen in the cathedral at or not. He stood, indifferent and fastidious with the election of a bishop, Ambrose repaired thither respect to this matter, and, at the same time, dein order to quell it. An infant's voice was on a lighted with the sweetness of his language. But sudden heard in the crowd, "Ambrose is bishop." the ideas which he neglected came into his mind, The whole assembly caught the words; and, for- together with the words with which he was pleasgetting he was a layman, vociforated with one ed; and he gradually was brought to attend to the consent, "Ambrose is bishop." The judge was doctrines of the bishop. Thus imperceptibly did confounded and alarmed, and absolutely refused the grace of God work in the mind of this extrato accept of the nomination. The emperor, how-ordinary man! It was long before he unbosomed ever, whose court was at Milan, at length com- himself to his instructor. He tells us it was out pelled him to assent. of his power to consult him as he could wish, surrounded as he was with crowds of persons whose necessities he relieved. During the little time in which he was from them, (and the time was but little,) he either refreshed his body with food or his mind with reading. His first act was to make over all his property to the church. He then commenced a particular and most devout study of the Scriptures. His labors afterwards, as bishop, were incessant. In the instruction of catechumens he employed so much pains, that five bishops could scarcely do what he alone performed. He preached every Lord's day, and frequently in the week. When he was fiercely persecuted by Justina the empress, a patroness of Arianism, and was required to yield up his church, he spent whole days and nights in the sacred place, employing the people in singing divine hymns and psalms; and on this occasion he introduced, for the first time, the responsive singing, after the manner of the east, to preserve them from weariness. Arianism was, by his doctrine and his zeal, at length expelled from Italy. But After two or three years of inward conflict, he at length gave in his name for baptism; which Ambrose administered to him, little thinking that he was admitting into the church a convert who, in the gracious purposes of God, was designed to be the bright glory of the western church, and the main restorer of decayed Christianity in the world. There was a little chapel lately rebuilt when Mr. Addison visited Milan, on one of the walls of which an inscription stated, that it was in that place that Austin was baptized, and that on this occasion St. Ambrose first sung his Te Deuin, his great convert answering him verse by verse. Il lost the sight of this curiosity also; whether from the ignorance of my guide or not, I cannot say. St. Ambrose died in the year 397, in the 57th year of his age, and the 23d of his episcopate. He has been charged with leaning too much towards the incipient superstitions of his day, and thus unconsciously of helping forward the growth of monastic bondage and prelatical pride. Something of this charge may be true; but he lived and died firm and unbending in all the fundamentals of divine truth. He loved the Saviour. He depended on his merits only for justification. He relied on the illumination and grace of the Holy Spirit. He delighted in communion with God. A rich unction of godliness rests on his writings; and he was one of the most fervent, humble, laborious, and charitable of all Christian bishops. crowd of people coming in and going out, and staring around them; but not one prayer, nor one verse of the Holy Scriptures intelligible to the people, not even if they knew Latin; nor one word of a sermon; in short, it was nothing more nor less than a PAGAN SHOW. We returned to our inn, and, after our English service, we went to see the catechising. This was founded by Borromeo, in the sixteenth century, and is one of the peculiarities of the diocese of Milan. The children meet in classes of ten or twenty, drawn up between the pillars of the vast cathedral, and separated from each other by curtains; the boys on one side, the girls on the other. In all the churches of the city there are classes also. Many grown people were mingled with the children. A priest, and sometimes a layman, sat in the midst of each class, and seemed to be ex I know not whether I am too ardent in my feel-plaining familiarly the Christian religion. The ings; but I must confess, that Zurich, Basle, Ge- sight was quite interesting. Tables for learning neva, Milan, and Lyon, are the spots most dear to write were placed in different recesses. The to my recollection amongst all the places crowded children were exceedingly attentive. At the door with beauties of another kind, which have attract- of each school, the words, pax vobis, peace be uned my notice during my tour. to you, were inscribed on a board; the names of the scholars were also on boards. Each school had a small pulpit, with a green cloth in front, bearing the Borromean motto, Humilitas. I need scarcely add, that in forming my judgment of St. Ambrose, my guide has been Milner, whose incomparable Ecclesiastical History, widely as it is circulated, is not nearly so well known as it deserves. For evangelical purity, accurate discrimination of character, laborious research, sound judgment, decision, fidelity, I know no book like it in the compass of English theology. As an ecclesiastical history it stands not merely unrivalled, but ALONE. LETTER XIV. Milan, Sept. 13.-Chamberry, Sept. 19, 1823. Now what can, in itself, be more excellent than all this? But mark the corruption of Popery: these poor children are all made members of a fraternity, and purchase indulgences for their sins by coming to school. A brief of the Pope, dated 1609, affords a perpetual indulgence to the chil dren in a sort of running lease of six thousand years, eight thousand years, &c., and these indulgences are applicable to the recovering of souls out of purgatory; the prayers also before school are full of error and idolatry. All this I saw with my own eyes and heard with my own ears; for I was curious to understand the bearings of these celebrated schools. Thus is the infant mind fettered and imprisoned. Sunday at Milan-Sunday Schools-Punch-Virgin Mary-Noisy Festival-Popery like Paganism-Church of St. Ambrose-Library-Amphi- Still I do not doubt that much good may be theatre of Bonaparte - Unfinished Triumphal done on the whole-the Catholic catechisms conArch-Remains of Roman Baths-Mint-Po-tain the foundation of the Christian religion, a geTesin-Turin-Churches-Palace-Ambioggio neral view of Scripture history, explanations of -Lans-le-bourg-Ancient Arch at Susa-Mount the creation and redemption of mankind, some Cenis Road-Reflections-St. Michael-Aiguebelle-Chamberry-Life of Borromeo-Extracts good instructions on the moral law, sound statefrom Writings. MILAN, Sunday evening, Sept. 14, 1823. MY DEAREST SISTER-I have witnessed to-day, with grief and indignation, all the superstitions of Popery in their full triumph. In other towns, the neighborhood of Protestantism has been some check on the display of idolatry; but here in Italy, where a Protestant is scarcely tolerated, except in the chapels of ambassadors, you see what things tend to; Popery has its unimpeded course; every thing follows the guidance and authority of the prevailing taste in religion. At half-past ten this morning we went to the cathedral, where seats were obtained for us in the gallery near the altar. We saw the whole of the proceedings at High Mass-priests almost without end-incense-singing-music-processions perpetual changes of dress-four persons with mitres, whom the people called the little bishops-a ments on the divinity of Christ, and the Holy Trinity; some acknowledgments of the fall of man, and the necessity of the grace of God's Holy Spirit; with inculcations of repentance, contrition, humility, self-denial, watchfulness, and preparation for death and judgment. These catechisms are not brief summaries, but rather full explanations of religion; making up small volumes of fifty or more pages. In the frontispiece of the catechism for the diocese of Geneva is the following affecting sentence, under the figure of our Lord, "Son amour et mon crime ont mis Jésus à mort"- -a sentiment which cannot but produce good. Still all is wofully mixed up with superstition, and error, and human traditions; and the consequence of this mixture is, that vital truths are so associated in the mind, from early youth, with the follies of Popery, that even the most pious men of that communion do not enough distinguish between them. If you deny transubstantiation, they suppose you disbelieve the divinity of Christ; if you avow that you are not a Papist, they suppose that you are a herctic, and have renounced the faith, &c. It was thus that such eminent Christians as Pascal, Nicole, Quesnel, Fénélon, and the great men of the Jansenist school, lived and died in the church of Rome. "A voluntary humility," as well as the "worshipping of angels,"-Coloss. ii. 18-may well be noted by St. Paul as an error, which ought zealously to be excluded from the Christian church. and identity of the superstitions. Such is Dr. Middleton's testimony, in his most interesting, elegant, learned, and decisive "Letter from Rome," in the year 1729 *—a testimony confirmed by all impartial writers since.t A late traveller, for instance,t says, there is the same strange mixture of the ceremonies of Paganism with the rites of the Roman Catholic religion in Sicily. The feast de la Vara, at Messina, is obviously founded on that of the Panathenæum celebrated at Athens, in all the abundant details of folly and impiety. The festivals of Saturn and Rhea are also continued there, under names slightly changed; and more than one ancient Pagan deity, is now a Christian saint. The Sicilians show you the mountain of Saint Venus, the well of Saint Juno, the chapel of Saint Mercury! || After dinner, at half-past three, we had our second English service, at our hotel, and then were hurried out to see, what you will think incredible in a Christian country, altars set up in the open air to the Virgin Mary, with hangings, festoons of lamps, priests offering prayers, lamps hung on cords stretched across the streets, the houses and squares gaily adorned with carpets and lights; the churches open and illuminated, and crowds The facility with which the Jesuit Missionaries passing in and out; while priests were giving re- in Japan and China allowed their converts to retain lics to kiss to the devotees who came kneeling at the rites and usages of Paganism, is well known, the altar in the most rapid succession; and soldiers and is entirely consistent with the above statewere parading about to keep in order the assem-ments. The Spanish Missionaries in America actbled mobs. I never was so astonished in all my life. Religion was, in fact, turned into an OPEN NOISY AMUSEMENT. Before the cathedral itself, there was an amazing crowd to witness Punch and his wife -literally, Punch and his wife:* priests were mingled in the crowd; and the thing is so much a matter of course, that nearly every picture of this cathedral, has, I understand, Punch and his auditory in the fore-ground; thus the farce is kept up throughout this sacred day. ed the same part. Popery conceals and corrupts Christianity; and then alloys it further with the peculiar habits and superstitions of each country.¶ But to pass to another subject. What a lamentable reflection is it, that all this is in a Christian country, and under color of Christianity, and even on the Christian Sabbath. The fact is, the Sabbath is almost unknown here as the day of sanctification and holy rest! Doubtless, in so vast a population, there are many secret And what is all this, but the ceremonies of an- disciples of the Lord Christ, who "sigh and cry for cient Roman Heathenism colored over with modern all the abominations that be done in the midst Roman Christianity? The resemblance between thereof;" but as to the mass of the people, the Popery and Paganism in Italy strikes every impar- Sunday is forgotten, obliterated, lost-nay, it tial observer. The names of things only are chang- is turned into the very worst day of all the ed. There are the same prostrations-the same week-no idea enters their minds of the divine incense the same holy water-the same lamps purpose and mercy in it, of which the Lord himself and candles-the same votive offerings and tablets speaks by his prophet, "I gave them my sabbaths, -the same temples, with the names of the hea- to be a sign between me and them, that they then deities slightly altered to suit the names of might know that I am the Lord that SANCTIFY pretended saints-the same adoration of images them." I should conceive there are but very, very the same worship of the supposed guardians of roads and highways-the same pomps and proces-dred and fifty thousand souls. sions-the same flagellations at certain periods -the same pretended miracles. It is not a little curious, that the very superstitions which the early Christian fathers most vehemently condemned in the Pagan rites, are now celebrated at Rome, in open day, as a part of Christian worship. As to the fact of the similiarity of the heathen and Popish ceremonies, it is admitted on all hands. The ItaLan antiquaries delight in tracing, in all simplicity, the resemblance; whilst the theologians defend it on the ground of the necessity, in the conversion of the gentiles, of dissembling and winking at many things, and yeilding to the times. And if at last they are pressed with the notorious idolatry and folly of many of these usages, they explain them away, precisely as the heathen did their worship of false deities; and thus establish the connection * Italy is the native country of Punch. A priest at Naples once observing the crowd more attentive to Punch, then exhibiting, than to himself who was preaching, suddenly seized a crucifix, and pointing to the figure of our Lord, exclaimed, "Ecco il vero Puncinello." He turned the admiration of the multitude instantaneously to himself. few Bibles amongst all this population of one hun What do we owe to Luther, Calvin, Zuingle, Cranmer, Ridley, Knox, &c. who, under God, lived * There may possibly be, in Dr. Middleton's Letter, some attacks on the Popish miracles in that general spirit of incredulity and levity which seems to condemn all miracles-and against which a young reader cannot be too much on his guard. + See Rome in the 19th century, above referred to. M. Forbin. I See "Extract from Les Souvenirs de la Sicile," ut supra. In a report made a year or two back on the state of religion in the south of India, we are informed that the Roman Catholics at Tinnevelly, a large district under the Presidency of Madras, besides the idolatrous ceremonies which the church of Rome openly sanctions, "add such others as their heathenish inclinations and the customs of the country suggest. At all the great festivals of the church they conform to the customs of the Heathens; except that they call their 'Swamies' by names of Apostles and other saints, instead of Rama, Siva, &c. They draw the Rutt and carry their idols in procession, exactly like the Heathen. The distinction of Hea then castes is observed among them" and died to rescue us from similar darkness! And what an effusion of grace must have accompanied their labors, to give them the success with which they were crowned throughout the greater part of Europe. And how great must be the guilt of those Protestant countries, who are suffering the light of truth to go out in their churches, and are substituting false schemes of religion, or forms of cold orthodoxy, for the lifegiving principles of the Reformation! May we "walk in the light" whilst it remains with us, lest "darkness" should again, in just judgment, be allowed to "come upon us!" O Monday evening, eight o'clock, Sept. 15, 1823. -We hired a voiture this morning, and drove about this great city from eight o'clock till six, except taking an hour for refreshment. We have been richly rewarded. I shall say little of the churches. This place is the toyshop of the Virgin Mary: we observe every where tradesmen for selling wax candles, images, crucifixes, ornaments -this speaks for itself "Demetrius and his craftsmen." I will only mention, that I observed a direct claim of miraculous powers on the tomb of a Dominican rector (miraculorum gloriâ clarus.) Plenary indulgences also were stuck up on almost every church. Two inscriptions, however, under the cross of our Lord, pleased me: "Having made peace by the blood of his cross;" and, "For the joy that was set before him, he despised the shame." If some of these old inscriptions were but acted upon, a mighty change would soon take place. After this we went to inspect some very curious The church that delighted me most was that of St. Ambrose, anciently the cathedral, and where Roman antiquities; a noble range of sixteen lofty he ordinarily officiated, founded in the fourth cen- pillars, formerly belonging to the baths of Milan. tury, on the site of a temple of Bacchus. Some re- They are fine Corinthian fluted pillars of white mains of the conquered heathen temple were seen marble of Paros, of admirable proportion, and placin different stones about the building, especially a ed at the most just distances from each other. bas-relief of Bacchanals, a pillar, with serpents, They are near the church of St. Lorenzo, and are emblematic of Esculapius; and the chair of St. thought to have been erected at a time when the Ambrose, formerly used in the idol temple. The purest architectural taste prevailed. The royal church is very old, and built of brick, and is almost palace, and that of the archbishop, had nothing buried by the elevation of the ground all around it. in them very remarkable. At the mint we saw You descend several steps to the large court, sur- a balance which turned with the eight hundredth rounded with galleries in front of it, and then se- part of a grain. The practice all over Bonaparte's veral more steps in entering the church itself. kingdoms of marking the value of each coin on The body of St. Ambrose is supposed to lie under the face of it, seems to be very good. A franc is the high altar. I confess I sat with reverence in marked a franc, five francs, five france, and so on. the chair of this great luminary of the church, The hospitals and charitable institutions, amountand mused on the fatal tendency to corruption ing to about thirty, we could not visit. in man, which in a few centuries could engraft on St. Ambrose's doctrines, idolatries and superstitions almost as gross as those which he overthrew. Many of the women here wear at the back of the head a semi-circle of broad cut pieces of tin, something like a fan, with two transverse pieces at the bottom of them towards the neck, like two The Ambrosian Library, called after the name pewter spoons joined by the handles-a costume of Ambrose, was founded by Fred. Borromeo, purely Roman. The general dress of the women is very becoming, with black or white veils; if cousin to the famous Borromeo; it contains thirty thousand volumes. We were shown fifty-eight they have not veis, they draw the shawl over the leaves of a most curious MS. of the Iliad of the head. One of the most peculiar customs at Mififth century before Christ, of which Angelo Mai lan is the hanging of the window-curtains, of all published a fac simile in 1810; a manuscript Virgil, with marginal notes by Petrarch; a Latin translation of Josephus, written on papyrus, of the third century; and a very valuable volume of designs by Leonardi da Vinci. sorts of colors, not within the house, but on the outside. It is singular also, to observe the dirty blacksmith, or awkward shoe-boy, eating immense bunches of ripe black grapes, which would sell in England for three shillings, or three shillings and I know you will ask, what memorials of Bona- six-pence a pound, as he goes along the streets. parte I visited. In reply I have to say, that we-But I must quit Milan, which though it has went to see his amphitheatre, with which I was distressed, has delighted and instructed us, and much delighted. It is one thousand feet long, five has more than amply repaid us the journey. |