magnificence: there were, he says, so many ruined churches, and such immense heaps of rubbish, as were not elsewhere to be found.-Leland says of it, in the reign of Henry VIII., that its site was in a fertile valley on the south side of the Dee; but that the river having since changed its course, then ran nearly through the middle of the ground on which it stood. The extent of its walls, he says, was equal to that of the walls round a town; and the two gates, the names of which had been handed down by tradition, had been half a mile asunder. Within the memory of persons then living, the bones of the monks, and pieces of their clothes, had been ploughed up, in the cultivation of the ground, as well as pieces of squared stones, and some Roman money.* Leland's Itin. v. 30. CHAPTER XXV. WREXHAM TO CHESTER,* (11 Miles.) Road to Chester-Acton Park-Gresford-Eaton Hall-Chester New Bridge-Chester- Rows-Walls-Phanix Tower-Roodee -Cathedral Churches-Castle-Glover's Stone-Hypocaust- Ancient Crypt -Public Buildings -Sketch of the History of Chester - Singular Events-Dr. Cole-James I.-Manufactures and Trade. ABOUT three quarters of a mile from Wrexham, on the right of the road, is ACTON PARK, the seat of Sir Foster Cunliffe. This was the birth place of Judge Jeffries. Two miles further on is the little village of GRESFORD, seated near the head of a beautiful valley, which opens into the Vale Royal of Cheshire. The church has a very picturesque appearance, and is noted for its musical bells, twelve in number, which ranked as one of the seven wonders of Wales. In the interior of the church are several ancient and modern tombs and monuments, which, with the decorations of the church itself, are well worthy of notice. About a mile beyond Gresford is Marford, in the immediate vicinity of which is an ancient British camp, called "the Roft." From the top of Marford Hill is a delightful view of the Vale of Cheshire, the City of Chester, and the River Dee. * The City of Chester, although situated in England, is so immediately connected with the Principality that a description of it is given in this Chapter. About a quarter of a mile from Chester is the principal entrance to EATON HALL, the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Westminster; the style of architecture is Gothic ; it was rebuilt on the site of the old mansion, by its present noble proprietor, from designs by Porden. The entrance to Chester is over the NEW BRIDGE, which was opened to the public in 1833. The distinguishing feature of this structure is the width of the span of the main arch, which is greater than that of any other yet constructed. CHESTER. There are few cities in Great Britain which for antiquity and singularity are more remarkable than Chester. This city, which contains 21,344 inhabitants, is situated on a rocky eminence, and some of the streets are partially formed by excavations. To this circumstance may perhaps be attributed the origin of the Rows, which run on each side along the fronts of the houses, and afford a sheltered walk for foot-passengers. These are tolerably wide, but low and close, and often very dirty. As they are eight or ten feet, at least, above the street, persons are under the necessity of descending and ascending the steps wherever a lane crosses them. Over them, and supported in front by wooden posts, are the higher stories of the houses. These rows are what tend principally to give its air of singularity to this city and to see the chief business of the place transacting in these covered ways, which one might almost fancy had once been a middle story cut out of all the houses, appears to a stranger truly singular. The WALLS round this city, which, except those of Carlisle, are the only entire specimen of ancient fortification. now existing in England, are built of a soft red stone, found on the spot, that gives them at a distance the appearance of brick. Their circuit is nearly two miles, and they are suffi ciently broad at the top to admit conveniently of two persons walking abreast. They are at present kept in repair for the purposes merely of pleasure and recreation. In different parts they command extensive and varied prospects. On the east, the Broxton hills and the rock of Beeston are seen at a distance; whilst finely cultivated grounds fill the intervening space. Towards the west, the mountains of Flintshire that bound the beautiful vale of Clwyd are very visible; and almost immediately beneath are the river and canal. On the eastern wall is the Phoenix tower, an object of great curiosity, as may be learnt from the following inscription upon it: King Charles Stood on this Tower On Rowton Moor. Betwixt the river and the walls is a piece of pasture land about a mile in circumference, called the ROODEE. This is used as a race-ground; and few places in the kingdom of its size (for it is only about a mile in circuit) are better calculated for the purpose, as it is nearly surrounded by eminences that command a view directly over it. Tradition says that in the year 946 an image of the Virgin mother and a large cross were interred here. The story is curious:-This image belonged to the church of Hawarden, and during the invocations of the inhabitants for relief from a season of drought, by which they were greatly suffering, being either not securely fixed in its place, or not possessing that share of infallibility which has frequently been ascribed to the image of the Virgin, it somewhat unexpectedly fell upon the head of Lady Trawst, the governor's wife, the effect of which was fatal. In consequence of this catastrophe, the inhabitants of the place held a con sultation as to the most proper mode of disposing of the image; and after due deliberation its sentence was,-" To be banished from that place by being laid on the sands of the river, from whence the tide might convey it to whatever other quarter the Virgin whom it represented should think proper." As it was low water when the image was taken to the sands, the flood tide carried it, of course, up the river; and on the day following it was found near the roodee, where it was immediately interred by the inhabitants of Chester with all due pomp and solemnity, and a large stone was placed over the grave with this inscription: The Jewes theire God dide crucifie, The Hardeners theires dide drowne, 'Cause with theire wantes she'd not complye; And lyes under thys colde stone. Near the walls, at the north-east side of the city, stands the CATHEDRAL, a very heavy and irregular pile of building. It is constructed of the same red stone as the walls, owing to the softness of which its exterior seems to be fast mouldering to decay. There is much neatness and beauty in the choir, and the Gothic work around its sides has a very pleasing effect. About the walls are dispersed the monuments of several bishops and clergymen, but none of them of any magnificence. The service is well performed. The bishop's throne stands on what is generally, though improperly, denominated the shrine of St. Werburgh; a large stone richly ornamented with Gothic carving. Round the top of this there is a range of thirty small images, at present neatly gilded, supposed to have been intended to represent the kings and saints of the Mercian kingdom. The shrine in which the sacred relics were deposited (a vessel no doubt either of silver or gold) was somewhat more portable than this mass of stone, for Mr. Pennant R |