Page images
PDF
EPUB
[ocr errors]

reflect the greatest honour on his head and his heart. 'I confidently hope,' his Majesty observes, that the university of Bonn will act in the spirit which dictated its foundation, in promoting true piety, sound sense, and good morals. By this my faithful subjects may know and learn with what patriotic affection I view the equal, impartial, and solid instruction of them all; and how much I consider education as the means of preventing those turbulent and fruitless efforts so injurious to the welfare of nations.'

6

[ocr errors]

But, alas! how often do the best intentions precede the worst consequences! Instead of education being the means of preventing those turbulent efforts,' which his Prussian Majesty so justly condemns, the universities of Germany are the very hives of sedition and turbulence. At this moment the university of Heidelberg is completely deserted. It appears that these ungovernable youths were holding democratic meetings; and a report having spread that the Grand Duke of Baden intended to arrest some of the leaders, the whole swarm of about eight hundred burst forth into the streets, bawling out Burschen, heraus! Turn out, turn out,' and marched off to a town a few leagues from Heidelberg, from whence they despatched terms of capitulation to their professors. Hearing, however, that some Baden dragoons were on their march towards Heidelberg, these mutineers crossed over to the left bank of the Rhine to Frankenthal; and thither certain professors were sent as deputies to negotiate with them, but without effect-the negotiators having insisted on a certain number of the ringleaders being given up for punishment. The council of ancients among the students had the impudence to pronounce an anathema against the university of Heidelberg for three years, during which time every German is forbidden to study there, after which they dispersed to their own homes. It is remarkable enough that, while these were transacting, the congress of German naturalists and physicians were holding their seventh meeting at Berlin, and appointed Heidelberg for that of next year. We do not imagine that the king of Prussia need entertain any apprehension of the students of Bonn following so pernicious an example; though it is somewhat singular that Niebuhr, the Roman historian, should be one of the professors whose political principles, originally promulgated in that work, were supposed, as Dr. Granville says, to have influenced some of those scenes of turbulence that mark part of the recent history of the German universities.' However, in a second edition, the learned author has rejected and disowned those political principles.* We have no fear, certainly, of Bonn,

scenes

[ocr errors]

* We wish we could say the same as to his absurd and shallow doctrines of another

class

Bonn, nor of Berlin, whose university contains upwards of sixteen hundred students. Should they venture to rebel, his Prussian Majesty would not hesitate to march the whole of them into the ranks; and, indeed, this would be a proper measure to pursue every now and then with regard to the German students: a set of young men who certainly pursue their studies with zeal, but who nevertheless are more brutal in conduct, more insolent in manner, more slovenly and ruffian-like in appearance, and more offensive from the fumes of tobacco and beer, onions and sourcrout, in which they are enveloped, than are to be met with in any other part of Europe. In a small town of a small state a Ġerman university is a horrible nuisance; and how the elegant court of Weimar, in particular, can tolerate the existence of one within an hour's ride of its palace, where we have seen ragamuffins fighting with broad-swords in the market-place, moves our special wonder.'

To the university of Bonn is attached a rich collection of subjects in natural history, and a botanical garden; and such is its success, from the celebrity of its professors, among whom is numbered the illustrious William Schlegel, that, as Dr. Granville states, 'there are at this time about one thousand and twenty students who, for twenty pounds in university and professors' fees, and forty more for living, get a first-rate education.' The climate and the situation on the banks of the Rhine are most inviting; and a beautiful avenue of chesnut trees, nearly a mile in length, joins the castle of Poppelsdorf, which contains the cabinets of natural history, with the university.

We must leave Roland the Bold and Hildegunde the Fair, and the beauteous Gertrude of Lilienstein, the Drachenfels, the Lurleyberg, and the lovely Undine, to such as can be pleased with romantic stories re-hashed by Dr. Granville, and hasten towards the grand theatre of his descriptive powers and graphical illustrations, to which about one half of his volumes is appropriated. We must not even suffer ourselves to be seduced by the Schlossenberger, the Markobrunner, the Rudesheim, and

class-but these remain; and, by the by, we think his last translators, two clergymen of the church of England, since they have exercised the right of adding notes to Niebuhr's text wherever they fancied they had anything worth hearing to offer, might have as well remarked, for the benefit of their young academical readers, on some of the most offensive paragraphs which have appeared since the days of the Philosophical Dictionary. But Niebuhr is, what Mr. Wordsworth should not have called Voltaire, a pert, dull scoffer.' We regret this omission the more, because one of these translators appears to us to be a man of great talents. He has written two prefaces, one to his version of Schleyermacher on St. Luke, and another to some novels from the German, which are sufficient to place him in an eminent rank. Pity that such talents should be wasted on the drudgery of translation and pity still more that the works rendered by such a hand should in any instance be pregnant with crude and dangerous speculations.

the

the many other luscious wines, whose qualities and prices are so fully detailed by Mr. Arnold Mumm, who holds the best stocked cellar in Frankfort, that city of palaces and pleasure. We cannot, however, refuse to halt for a moment to hear with what melodious strains the market people are regaled at Weimar.

[ocr errors]

On the morning after our arrival, I was delighted and surprised at the sound of a beautiful waltz, exquisitely performed on wind instruments, apparently not far off. This attracted us to the window, when, instead of one of those wandering troops of musicians, which one expects to see at the door of an hotel, greeting, for the sake of a few sous, the newly arrived traveller, we observed a numerous band, perched in the stone balcony near the very top of the lofty Rathhaus, regaling with delightful performances of music taken from books regu larly set before them, the assembled multitude in the market below, who listened to the different pieces with the indifference of persons evidently accustomed to such a practice. I learned, in fact, shortly after, from Meinherr Hoffman, a respectable bookseller, that this morning-concert is repeated regularly twice a week, on market-days at eleven o'clock, agreeably to a contract entered into by a society of musicians with the city authorities, who have likewise engaged them to furnish all the sacred music and performers requisite for the church service.'-vol. i. pp. 214, 215.

The good people of Weimar appear, indeed, to be most enthu→ siastic lovers of music, affording, as the Doctor thinks, strong proofs of melomania. Every householder of any importance subscribes an annual sum to a band of musicians, who go round in long cloaks to each house, singing fugas and canons, unaccom panied by instruments, in the most beautiful and correct style. imaginable,'-something, we suppose, in the style of the Tyrolese minstrels. We cannot leave Weimar without giving a specimen comment les Allemands mangent, for Dr. G.'s specimen may serve for all the north of Germany.

'I determined on joining one day the first and most frequented table d'hôte kept in Weimar, at which, as I had previously been told, I should be sure of meeting with a select number of highly respectable people, who, having no regular household establishment, usually fre quent these convenient places. Alas! things seldom prove in reality so fair as in description. I learned, on taking my place at the convi-, vial board, that I had the honour of sitting with no fewer than three Barons, Privy Councillors, superior employés in the Government, and some military officers. My informant, who presided at the table, and who was master of the inn, introduced me to those who sat nearest. I first addressed one, then another, and at last a third, with the usual introductory observations of strangers willing to enter into conversation; but to no effect. Either my German was unintelligible, or my French too much for them; for I tried both languages." (Why did the Doctor not try Italian 1) The replies were mono

[ocr errors]

syllabic

syllabic and discouraging, and I was compelled to fall back into my character of silent observer. As the dinner proceeded, and the, conversation, with one exception, became general, a boisterous band of bugles and clarionets, enough to startle the whole Thuringian forest, was admitted into the room; and the astounding noise they made rendered the voices of our guests louder and louder still, until it became, at last, animated to the highest degree, though no Rhenish wine, but only a single tumbler of cold punch had been set before them. Brandishing of knives and forks in the air, as the interlocutors studied to enforce by gesticulation their narratives and propositions; picking of teeth with the point of the knife or a pin during the short pauses of affected attention to the adversary's reply; spitting across the room, and at some distance, on some unlucky piece of furniture; despoiling every plate of the last drop of the savoury sauce, with a morsel of bread held between the finger and thumb; these formed some of the episodes to the more general occupation of eating, enacted by these sprigs of nobility and untravelled fashionables. Their shirtpins, bearing stones of the diameter of a rixthaler, cornelian watchkeys like the pans of scales, profusion of massive rings on every phalanx, coarse linen, hair uncombed, and nails terminated by a sable crescent, bespoke them members of that privileged class, which in many of the principal towns in Germany, I am sorry to be obliged to admit, do not always combine the Chesterfieldian manners and neatness of person with their other excellent qualities of the heart and head, but whose peculiarities never strike the uninitiated so forcibly as at table.' -vol. i. pp. 226—228.

[ocr errors]

And now for the cuisine, in which, however, we cannot help thinking our author indulges too much, and wastes a great deal more time than the subject demands.

Our dinner began with potage au riz, of which deep basinsful with grated cheese were speedily swallowed. To this succeeded, in single and orderly succession, plain boiled beef with sour mustard and a profusion of fermented red cabbage; boiled carp, with its silvery scales in all their brilliancy upon its back; large balls of a substance resembling hasty pudding, light and savoury, swimming in a bowl of melted butter resembling castor oil, and eaten most voraciously by all present, with the addition of a sweet compôte de pommes. Chevreuil piqué au lard was next introduced; followed by some sort of fried fish. At last a boiled capon made its appearance, to which I, who had hitherto been a motionless as well as a silent spectator, commended myself for a dinner; and while thus engaged, I observed that fried parsley roots, hot and hissing from the pan, were received on the table with the approving exclamation: "Das ist ganz vortrefflich!" This comedy had now lasted upwards of an hour, and I began to repent of my experiment. At last Dutch cheese, pears, and sponge biscuits, were laid on the greasy table cloth; coffee and liqueur were presented to some and not to others, and the "convivii turbulenti," after having rolled up their weekly napkin, and confined it within a ring of red leather, paid

their moderate reckoning of half a rixthaler, (eighteenpence!) and departed, one after the other, in all the swaggering complacency which a full stomach is apt to inspire.'-vol. i. pp. 228, 229.

[ocr errors]

Heaven defend us, we say, from the table-d'hôte at Weimar! It is but little consolation to be assured that, with all this, the chymification and chilification go on uninterruptedly' in the human caldron; and that the whole secret of eating and drinking depends on the manner in which a stomach has been educated. Each,' the Doctor tells us, ' has had its physical education as peculiarly different from that of the rest, as that which the professor has received in the nursery or at college, and each must be dealt with accordingly.' If so, what becomes of Mr. Abernethy's universal specific, the blue pill? We suppose it is adapted to all stomachs, something like a purser's shirt, which fits all the Johnnies, great and small, in a man of war.

[ocr errors]

• It

Every body has heard of the immense quantity of books that are exposed for sale at Leipsig fair, but we certainly were not aware that one of the objects that attract so many persons— Deutchers, and Polacks, and liegemen of the Dane,- -is to friandize' on Leipsig larks; about half a million of which, the Doctor was informed, are consumed at the Michaelmas fair. We are grieved, moreover, to find that the Germans have a keener edge for these feathered dainties than for the edges of our Birmingham and Sheffield scissors, knives and razors, all of which once found so good a market in that country. is a fact,' says Dr. Granville, that in the course of our whole journey from the Rhine to Berlin, I did not observe a single knife, or any other table utensil, which was not of German origin -clumsy, awkward, badly finished indeed, but still preferred because German.' This is carrying patriotism or prejudice to a great length indeed. We venture to say that a pair of English scissors may be afforded at Leipsig, for three half-pence, better than any that can be made in all Germany for three-pence; but it would be difficult to persuade the muzzy-headed smokers of this.

Berlin, with its splendid museums of pictures, natural history and Egyptian antiquities-the university, with its seventeen hundred students the academy of arts and sciences, enriched and supported chiefly by his Prussian Majesty-affords a subject on which we could dwell with pleasure, if our limited space would allow; but we have so high an opinion of the excellent qualities of King Frederic William, that we are unwilling to pass unnoticed the testimony which Dr. Granville has given of the regard and veneration which his grateful subjects pay to him.

No sovereign in Europe is more beloved by his subjects. Goodness of heart, uprightness of judgment, a desire to promote the utility

« PreviousContinue »