which cannot so well be ascertained in its frothy and liquid state. Experienced bread-makers do not need such a precaution, as they are enabled, by long practice, to judge of the effect which it will produce in any form. A large tablespoonful of it when solid will be quite sufficient for a fourpound loaf.

Brewers' yeast.-Though often otherwise perfectly good, brewers' yeast is sometimes in these days so extremely bitter, that it can with difficulty be rendered fit for making bread, even by the washing and frequent change of water recommended at page 92. Neither passing it through bran, nor dropping kindled charcoal or live cinders into it, nor any of the expedients recommended commonly for the purpose, will produce the desired effect. The white of an egg mingled with the water which is first stirred to it may, in a measure, improve it; but as gentian and various other powerfully-flavoured ingredients are partly substituted for hops in brewing the bitter beer which at present finds so much favour with the English public, and which is so largely brewed for exportation as well, it is extremely difficult to make bread with it that is free from bitterness. The only plan to be pursued when no other can be procured, is to use it very sparingly, and to leave the dough much longer to rise. The yeast

of porter, from its dark colour, and its flavour also, is objectionable for bread.

INGREDIENTS FOR MAKING UNFERMENTED BREAD.

Good and wholesome bread can be made in several ways without yeast, or what is commonly called leaven or "raising." When a loaf is merely wanted quickly on occasion, soda and tartaric acid or sour butter-milk may be used for it; but for constant eating the tartaric acid would be objectionable, and muriatic acid should supply its place; but this must be kept and used with care and caution, as it burns severely before it is mixed with the soda, but is perfectly harmless afterwards, as it is then converted into common salt, and the hands may be used fearlessly to knead the bread which is made with it after the ingredients have been stirred together for an instant with a wooden spoon.

All unfermented bread must be despatched to the oven the instant it is made, or it will be heavy; it can therefore only be baked where there is an oven close at hand. If sent to a bake-office, it must be made there, and set into the oven immediately.

For the best kind of unfermented bread.-When this is required in large quantities, or is habitually eaten by a family, the ingredients should be kept

in readiness for immediate use when needed. Eight ounces of strong muriatic acid should be mixed with twenty-one ounces of cold water, and kept in a stopper-bottle. For each pound of flour half an ounce of this should be measured with a graduated glass kept for the purpose, and added to half a pint of cold water. One drachm (apothecaries' weight) of carbonate of soda must be rubbed through a fine sieve, and thoroughly mingled with the flour, before the acid is stirred to it.

Strong muriatic acid 8 ozs., cold water 21 ozs. Of this mixture, an oz. in pint cold water for each lb. of flour, and carbonate of soda (apothecaries' weight) 1 drachm.

For Dr. Pereira's unfermented bread.-For each pound of flour one drachm of carbonate of soda, and half a teaspoonful of pounded sugar rubbed through a sieve. Fifty drops of the muriatic acid of the shops and half a pint of water.

SECTION II.

THE OVEN.

GENERAL RULES FOR BAKING BREAD.

As a general rule, bread requires a rather quick oven to bake it properly. Occasionally it will be light and well flavoured when slowly baked, but seldom of good colour. The heat should always be so regulated as to penetrate the dough entirely before the outside becomes hard. If it be seized or caught, as it is termed, at first, the surface will often be perfectly black, while the inside still remains mere dough; and for this it is difficult to find any remedy; for leaving it a longer time than usual in the oven will only burn the outside more and more, and leave the interior still watery, rendering the whole uneatable.

It is useless to endeavour to complete the baking of bread which has been withdrawn from the oven before it was done and allowed to become cold; for the heat has then no further effect upon it. If returned to the oven while still hot, the defect may be remedied.

"When bread has been made too lithe," that

is to say, when so much liquid has been used in mixing the dough that it spreads about instead of remaining in shape when moulded into loaves, "it should be put into a rather slow oven; otherwise the outside will speedily harden and lock up the moisture," and the inside, not being sufficiently baked, will be unwholesome eating; and in warm weather will soon become sour or mouldy.

Loaves which are baked in tins or pans should be loosened from them directly they are taken from the oven and, like all other bread, turned upside down, or the steam, not being able to escape, will cause the under-crusts to be wet and blistered. To render bread soft it is covered with a thick flannel while cooling, or wrapped in it.

A proper instrument for rasping French rolls or loaves is sold at the ironmongers'.

Observation. To ascertain whether dough be light enough to bake, let the knuckles be pressed hard upon it, and leave it for a short time, when, if the impression of them has disappeared, it will be a proof that it is ready for the oven, to which it should be despatched quickly after it has been made up into loaves, unless it is required very spongy, when it may be kept, as directed in some of the following receipts, in a warm place to rise or prove, after it is moulded.

*Professor Donovan.