1825.7 The Subaltern. From the streets, each of which resembled, in every particular, that which we had first entered, we proceeded towards the breach, where a dreadful We found it spectacle awaited us. covered-literally covered-with fragments of dead carcases, to bury which it was evident that no effectual attempt had been made. I afterwards learned, that the Spanish corps which had been left to perform this duty, instead of burying, endeavoured to burn the bodies; and hence the half-consumed limbs and trunks which were scattered about, the effluvia arising from which was beyond conception overpowering. We were heartily glad to quit this part of the town, and hastened, by the nearest covered way, to the Castle. Our visit to it soon convinced us, that in the idea which we had formed of its vast strength, we were greatly deceived. The walls were so feebly built, that in some places, where no shot could have struck them, they were rent from top to bottom by the recoil of the guns which surmounted them. About twenty heavy pieces of ordnance, with a couple of mortars, composed the whole artillery of the place; whilst there was not a single bomb-proof building in it, except the Governor's house. A large bake-house, indeed, was bomb-proof, because it was hollowed out of the rock; but the barracks were everywhere perforated and in ruins. That the garrison must have suffered fearfully during the week's bombardment, everything in and about the place gave proof. . Chap. V. Among other places, we strolled We had now gratified our curiosity to the full, and turned our backs upon St Sebastians, not without a chilling sense of the horrible points in our profession. But this gradually wore off as we approached the quarters of our host, and soon gave place to the more cheering influence of a substantial dinner, and a few cups of indifferently good wine. We slept soundly after our day's journey, and, starting next morning with the lark, we returned to our beautiful encampment above Irun. CHAPTER VI. Thus passed nearly four weeks, the weather varying, as at this season it is everywhere liable to vary, from wet to dry, and from storm to calm. The troops worked sedulously at the redoubts, till no fewer than seven-andthirty, commanding and flanking all the most assailable points between Fontarabia and the Foundery, were completed. For my own part, I pursued my ordinary routine, shooting or fishing all day long, whenever leisure was afforded, or rambling about amid scenery, grand beyond all power of language to describe. In one of these excursions, I stumbled upon another cave, similar, in all respects, to those which I had before been hindered from exploring. Determined not to be dis- It was now the fifth of October, and in spite of numerous rumours of a movement, the army still remained quiet. Marshal Soult, however, appeared fully to expect our advance, for he caused a number of hand-bills to be scattered through the camp, by the market people, most of whom were in his pay, warning us, that Gascony had risen en masse; and that if we dared to violate the sacred soil, every man who ventured beyond the camp would undoubtedly be murdered. These hand-bills were printed in French and Spanish; and they came in, in increased quantities, about the time that intelligence of Bonaparte's disastrous campaign in Russia reached us. Of course, we paid to them no attention whatever, nor had they the most remote effect in determining the plans of our leader, who probably knew, as well as the French general, how affairs really stood. I shall not soon forget the 5th, the 6th, or the 7th of October. The first of these days I had spent among the woods, and returned to my tent in the evening, with a tolerably well-stored game-bag; but though fagged with my morning exercise, I could not sleep. After tossing about upon my blanket, till near midnight, I rose, and, pulling on my clothes, walked out. The moon was shining in cloudless majesty, and lighted up scene such as I never looked upon before, and shall probably never look upon again. I had admired the situation of our camp during the day, as it well deserved; but when I viewed it by moonlight, -the tents moist with dew, and glittering in the silver rays which fell upon them, with a grove of dwarf oaks partly shading them, and the stupendous cliffs distinctly visible in the back ground, I thought, and I think now, that the eye of man never beheld a scene more romantic or more beautiful. There was just breeze enough to produce a slight waving of the branches, which, joined to the increasing roar of a little waterfall at no great distance, and the occasional voice of a sentinel, who challenged as any one approached his post, produced an effect altogether too powerful for me to portray, at this distance of time, even to myself. I walked about for two hours, perfectly enchanted, though I could not help thinking, that thousands who slept securely under that moon's rays, would sleep far more soundly under the rays of another. I returned to my couch of fern about two in the morning, and slept, or rather dozed, till day-break; then, having waited the usual time under arms with the men, I set off again, with my dog and gun, to the mountains. But I was weary with last night's watching, and a friend, in something of my own turn of mind, overtaking me, we sat down to bask in the sun, upon a lofty rock which overlooked the camp. There we remained till the collecting clouds warned us of a coming storm; when, hurrying home, the information so long expected was communicated to us, namely, that we were to attack on the mor row. I am no fire-eater, nor ever professed to be one; but I confess that the news produced in me very pleasurable sensations. We had been stationary, in our present position, so long, that all the objects around had become familiar, and variety is everything in the life of a soldier. Besides, there was the idea of invading France, an idea which, a few years before, would have been scouted as visionary; this created a degree of excitement highly animating. Not that I was thoughtless of what might be my own fate; on the contrary, I never yet went into action without making up my mind before hand, for the worst. But you become so familiarized with death, after you have spent a few months amid such scenes as I had lately witnessed, that it loses most of its terrors, and is considered, only as a blank is considered in the lottery of which you may have purchased a ticket. It may come and go, why, there is no help for it; but you may escape, and then there are new scenes to be witnessed, and new adventures to go through. As the attack was to be made at an early hour, the troops were ordered to lie down as soon after dark as possible, in order that they might be fresh, and in good spirits for the work of tomorrow. In the meanwhile, the clouds continued to collect over the whole face of the sky, and the extreme sultriness of the atmosphere indicated an approaching thunder-storm. The sun went down, lowering and ominously, but it was not till the first night-relief had been planted, that is, about eight or nine o'clock in the evening, that the storm burst upon us. Then indeed it came, and with a degree of sublimity which accompanies such a storm, only amid such scenery. The lightning was more vivid than any which I recollect ever to have seen, and the peals of thunder, echoed back as they were by the rocks and mountains around, sounded more like one continued rending of the elements, than the intermitted discharges of an electric cloud. Happily, little or no rain fell, at least for a time, by which means I was enabled to sit at the door of my tent and watch the storm, nor have I been frequently more delighted than with its progress. Immediately opposite to where I sat, was a valley or glen, beautifully wooded; at the bottom of which flowed a little rivulet, which came from the waterfall already alluded to. This was completely laid open to me at every flash, as well as the whole side of the mountain beyond it; near the sum mit of which, a body of Spanish soldiers were posted in a lonely cottage. It was exceedingly curious to catch sight of this hut, with warlike figures moving about it, and arms piled beside it; of the bold heights around, with the stream tumbling from its rocky bed, and the thick groves, and the white tents-and then, to have the whole hidden from you in a moment. I sat and feasted my eyes, till the rain began to descend; when the storm gradually abating, I stretched myself on the ground, and without undressing, wrapt myself in my cloak, and fell asleep. It was, as nearly as I can now recollect, about four o'clock next morning, when I was roused from my slumber by the orderly serjeant of the company. By this time the storm had completely passed away, and the stars were shining in a sky perfectly cloudless. The moon had, however, gone down, nor was there any other light except what they afforded, to aid the red glare from the decaying fires, which, for want of fuel, were fast dy ing out. The effect of this dull light, as it fell upon the soldiers, mustering in solemn silence, was exceedingly fine. You could not distinguish either the uniform or the features of the VOL. XVII. men; you saw only groups collecting together, with arms in their hands; and it was impossible not to associate in your own mind the idea of banditti, rather than of regular troops, with the wild forest scenery around. Of course, I started to my feet at the first summons; and having buckled on my sabre, stowed away some cold meat, biscuit, and rum, in a haversack, and placed it, with my cloak, across the back of my horse, and swallowed a cup or two of coffee, I felt myself ready and willing for any kind of service whatever. In little more than a quarter of an hour, the corps was under arms, and each man in his place. We had already been joined by two other battalions, forming a brigade of about fifteen hundred men; and about an hour before sun-rise, just as the first streaks of dawn were appearing in the east, the word was given to march. Our tents were not, on this occasion, struck. They were left standing, with the baggage and mules, under the protection of a guard, for the purpose of deceiving the enemy's picquets, in whose view they were exposed, with the belief that nothing was going forward. This measure was rendered necessary, because the state of the tide promised not to admit of our fording the river till past seven o'clock; long before which hour broad day-light would set in; and hence, the whole object of our early movement was to gain, unobserved, a sort of hollow, close to the banks of the Bidaossa, from which, as soon as the stream should be passable, we might emerge. As we moved in profound silence, we reached our place of ambuscade without creating the smallest alarm; where we laid ourselves down upon the ground, for the double purpose of more effectually avoiding a display, and of taking as much rest as possible. Whilst lying here, we listened, with eager curiosity, to the distant tread of feet, which marked the coming up of other divisions, and to the lumbering sound of the artillery, as it rolled along the high road. The latter increased upon us every moment, till at length three ponderous eighteen-pounders reached the hollow, and began to ascend the rising ground immediately in front of us. These were placed in battery, so as to command the ford, across which a stone bridge, now in 3 N ruins, was thrown; and by which we knew, from the position which we now occupied, that we were destined to proceed. By what infatuation it arose, that all those preparations excited no suspicion among the enemy, whose sentinels were scarce half musket-shot distant, I know not; but the event proved, that they expected, this morning, anything rather than an attack. Before I proceed to describe the circumstances of the battle, I must endeavour to convey to the minds of my non-military readers something like a clear notion of the nature of the position occupied by the right of the French army. I have already said, that its extreme flank rested "pon the sea. Its more central brigades occupied a chain of heights, not, indeed, deserving of the name of mountains, but still sufficiently steep to check the progress of an advancing force, and full of natural inequalities, well adapted to cover the defenders from the fire of the assailants. Along the face of these heights is built the straggling village of Andage; and immediately in front of them runs the frith or mouth of the Bidaossa, fordable only in two points, one opposite to Fontarabia, and the other in the direction of the main road. Close to the French bank of the river, is a grove, or strip of willows, with several vineyards, and other enclosures, admirably calculated for skirmishers; whilst the ford, beside the ruined bridge, the only one by which artillery could pass, was completely commanded by a fortified house, or tete-du-pont, filled with infantry. The main road, again, on the French side of the river, winds among overhanging precipices, not, indeed, so rugged as those in the pass of Irun, but sufficiently bold to place troops which might occupy them in comparative security, and to render one hundred resolute men more than a match for a thousand who might attack them. Yet these were the most assailable points in the whole position, all beyond the road being little else than perpendicular cliffs, shaggy with pine and ash trees. Such was the nature of the ground which we were commanded to carry. As day dawned, I could distinctly see that the old town of Fontarabia was filled with British soldiers. The fifth division, which had borne the brunt of the late siege, and which, since the issue of their labours, had been permitted to rest somewhat in the rear, had been moved up on the preceding evening; and reaching Fontarabia a little before midnight, had spent some hours in the streets. Immediately in rear of ourselves, again, and in the streets of Irun, about eight thousand of the guards and of the German legion were reposing; whilst a brigade of cavalry just showed its leading file, at a turning in the main road, and a couple of nine-pounders stood close beside them. It was altogether a beautiful and an animating sight, not fewer than fifteen or twenty thousand British and Portuguese troops being distinguishable at a single glance. Away to our right, and on the tops of San Marcial, the Spanish divisions took their stations; nor could I avoid drawing something like an invidious comparison between them and their gallant allies. Half clothed, and badly fed, though sufficiently armed, their appearance certainly promised no more than their actions, for the most part, verified. Not that the Spanish peasantry are deficient in personal courage, (and their soldiers were, generally speaking, no other than peasants with muskets in their hands,) but their corps were so miserably officered, and their commissariot so miserably supplied, that the chief matter of surprise is, how they came to fight at all. Even at this period of the war, when their country might be said to be completely freed from the invader, the principal subsistence of the Spanish army consisted in the heads of Indian corn, which they gathered for themselves in the fields, and cooked, by roasting them over their fires. It will readily be imagined, that we watched the gradual fall of the river with intense anxiety, turning our glasses ever and anon towards the French lines, throughout which all remained most unaccountably quiet. At length a movement could be distinguished among the troops which occupied Fontarabia. Their skirmishers began to emerge from under cover of the houses, and to approach the river, when instantly the three eighteen-pounders opened from the heights above us. This was the signal for a general advance. Our column, likewise, threw out its skirmishers, which, hastening towards the ford, were saluted by a sharp fire of musketry from the enemy's picquets, and from the garrison of the tete-du-pont. But the latter was speedily abandoned as our people pressed through the stream, and our artillery kept up an incessant discharge of round and grape shot upon it. The French picquets were driven in, and our troops established on the opposite bank, with hardly any loss on our part, though those who crossed by Fontarabia were obliged to hold their firelocks and cartouch-boxes over their heads, to keep them dry; and the water reached nearly above the knees beside the bridge. The alarm had, how ever, been communicated to the columns in rear, which hastily formed upon the heights, and endeavoured, but in vain, to keep possession of Andage. That village was carried in gallant style by a brigade of the fifth division, whilst the first, moving steadily along the road, dislodged from their post the garrison of the hills which commanded it, and crowned the heights almost without opposition. A general panic seemed to have seized the enemy. Instead of boldly charging us, as we moved forward in column, they fired their pieces, and fled without pausing to reload them, nor was anything like a determined stand attempted, till all their works had fallen into our hands, and much of their artillery was taken. It was one of the most perfect, and yet extraordinary surprises, which I ever beheld. There were not, however, wanting many brave fellows among the French officers, who exerted themselves strenuously to rally their terrified comrades, and to restore the battle. Among these I remarked one in particular. He was on horseback; and, riding among a flying battalion, he used every means which threat and entreaty could produce, to stop them; and he succeeded. The battalion paused, its example was followed by others, and in five minutes a well-formed line occupied what looked like the last of a range of green hills, on the other side of a valley which we were descending. This sudden movement on the part of the enemy was met by a corresponding formation on ours; we wheeled into line and advanced. Not a word was spoken, nor a shot fired, till our troops had reached nearly half way 451 French, raising one of their discordacross the little hollow, when the ant yells,-a sort of shout, in which every man halloos for himself, without regard to the tone or time of those about him-fired a volley. It was well directed, and did considerable execufor a moment. tion; but it checked not our approach with a hearty British cheer, and giOur men replied to it ving them back their fire, rushed on to the charge. spirit by the enemy. I remarked the In this they were met with great same individual, who had first stopped men, and animate them to their duty, their flight, ride along the front of his difficulty, and after having exchanged nor was it without very considerable several discharges of musketry, that ging distance. Then, indeed, another we succeeded in getting within charcheer was given, and the French, without waiting for the rush, once more broke their ranks and fled. Their leader was still as active as before. He rode among the men, reproached, exhorted, and even struck those near him with his sword, and he was he fell. In an instant, however, he once more about to restore order, when rose again and mounted another horse, but he had hardly done so when a ball took effect in his neck, and he dropped dead. ded the day upon the heights of AnThe fall of this one man decidage. The French troops lost all order and all discipline, and making as he best could, they left us in undistheir way to the rear, each by himself puted possession of the field. On the right of our army, however, and on the extreme left of the enemy, a much more determined opposition to the natural strength of his position, was offered. There Soult had added by throwing up redoubts and batteries hence, it was not without suffering a upon every commanding point, and very considerable loss, that the light division succeeded in turning it. All attempts, indeed, to carry the Hermitage, failed, though they were renewed with the most daring resolution, till a late hour in the night. these quarters, I could see nothing, But of the operations of the army in and therefore I will not attempt to describe them. troops, wearied as much with the pur- |
