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* For every shrub, and every blade of grass, nosa might have been just as suitable. And every pointed thorn, seemed wrought in the whole is wretched. I would not give In pearls and rubies rich the hawthorns for five hundred such trumpery produc
the crag a mile below Knaresborough, shew, While through the ice the crimson berries the little bronze figure of the Venus of
tions. I must mention in justice, that glow; The thick-sprung reeds which watery marshes Medicis, placed in the banqueting-house, yield,
is the most elegant imitation of that cele. Seemed polished lances in a hostile field;
brated statue. I have ever The stag in limpid currents, with surprise,
England. Sees crystal branches on his forehead rise ; Turning away in disgust from the The spreading oak, the beech, and tow'ring boasted beauties of Studleigh, we soon pine,
arrive at a real beauty-the venerable Glazed over, in the freezing æther shine ; ruin of Fountaine's Abbey. This is The frighted birds the rattling branches unquestionably the finest ruin in Enge shun,
land. It stands in a sequestered valley, Which wave and glitter in the distant sun."
near to which a modest river steals along A general idea of Hack-fall, which has between woods and rocks. Nothing has been said to combine the beauties of fallen to ruin in Fountaine's Abbey, Matlock and the Leasowes, may be ob- excepting the roof and some of the wintained, by conceiving a rivulet falling in dows. The chancel, the choir, the cascades down a narrow dell, betwixt cloisters, the dormitory, the kitchen, the two steep hills richly covered with wood, retectory, the chapter-house, and the and interspersed with temples and ruins. charnel-house, are all nearly entire; and From the top of one of these eininences in some places the plaister remains on may be seen a wide view of the North Rid- the walls, painted so as to resemble large ing of Yorkshire, bounded by distant hills, red stones nicely joined together.
Hack-fall lies about four or five miles Fountaine's Abbey is a Gothic building: from the beautiful seat of its proprietor, it was formerly enriched with ample Studleigh Park, which I entered at the revenues; and the Percy family, many of northern gate, close to the house. After whom are here buried, were considered riding about half a mile through a lawn, as its chief benefactors. It was founded I descended to a fine sheet of water, in 1132 by Thurstan, archbishop of on the borders of which, even winter York; and an inscription over one of the wore the look of spring. Studleigh Park gates mentions its having been finished is certainly highly cultivated; nature in the year 1202, seventy years from its has done much, and art-more, in contri- foundation: the length of the aisle is buting towards its beauty. There are three hundred and sixty feet, and the fine sloping hills covered with wood, and cloister garden is entire. interspersed with temples; banqueting Riding on from Fountaine's Abbey, I houses, cold bathis, and seats planted to passed through Ripley and Lower Har catch noble prospects: and below are rowgate; and stopping all night at a small umooth lakes, and imitations of the best inn four iniles beyond the latter place, remains of ancient scuipture. Never, arrived next morning in Leeds. theless, I cannot help differing from all After resting some days, I again took travellers, by decidedly condenining the horse, and travelled through Wakefield, taste of it to be vile. Here all is art, which I hare described in a former tour and no nature; the principal sheet of to Barnsley, a wretched ugly little town, water is divided into three compart- where I got a bad breakfast. Sandal ments, resemoling a moon, and a cres. Castle lies in the way within a mile of cent on each side of it. In the exact Wakefield, well known to be celebrated centre of these are dripping figures of for a famous battle between the White Galen, Esculapius, and Niobe: cor- and Red Roses. From Barnsley, I responding figures are placed opposite proceeded to Wentworth Castle, where to the half-moons on the banks--the I was led tbrough the picture gallery, Dying Gladiator, and the Wrestlers; while though in a great hurry, by the house. this abominable piece of Dogget-work, is keeper, who had more important busisupplied with water from a broad ribbon ness in hand—the making of jellies and of a cascade not better than a mill-dam. blamanges. Wentworth Castle is a Opposite, on the other side, is a temple family seat of the Stafford family, and of Piety, containing of all things in the stands nobly on the suinmit of a hill world, a bust of Nero :-_a bust of Spi- covered with old trees. The grounds
are finely laid out: but alas! this was not his chin, might have been well calculated the time of year for perceiving their for the part of Don Ferolos Whiskeran. beauties. The gallery contains some dos. The music was that to which a bear of the best paintings both of old and would dance: and what little wit there modern masters. Öne in particular was, seemned not ill fitted for a company struck me in going along : Swindlers which might be supposed would wiiness drawing out a Card. There are mang such a spectacle. One man sung a song beautiful Views, in Switzerland. Here betwixt the play and the farce, in the too is to be seen fine portrait of the character of a cake-seller : each verse celebrated lord Stafford on borseback; ended with the genteel burthen of—"All and another picture representing three my eye and Betiy Martin.” One, and one kings, all said to be of the Stafford only, of the stanzas remains in my memory; fair.ily. Visitors are also shewn a room, called Queen Anne's room, where there
" The ladies they like bride-cake, is a table and mirror-frame, both of solid if they say they don't like the men,
And of this I'm sure and sartain, silver.
It's all my eye and Betty Martin !" Regretting that the opportunity of remaining in the gallery was so extremely
The next morning I arose before light, short, I pushed on to Wentworth House,
and reached Worksop to
breakfast the noble palace of earl Fitzwilliam, and at the end of the town, which is quite arrived in time to get a good view of the
a lodge indicates the paintings.
most valuable, entrance to Worksop Manor, a seat of being the elite of all the best masters.
the Norfolk family. It is a much more The chief of them are as follows: Jason magnificent mansion than the ridiculous killing the Dragon, by Salvator Rosa; piece of mock-antique Arundel Castle Cupid Sleeping, hy Guído; a Magdalen, in its repaired state, to which the prea nolds; Madona and Child, by Raphael; in length, not quite so noble as that of by Titian; Bacchus, by sir Joshua Reysent duke gives the preference as a resi
dence. The front is three hundred feet there are likewise several good pictures hy Ostade, Teniers, and Bomenichino. Wentworth House. In the centre is a In other apartments are portraits of portico of six columns of the Corinthian Charles I. and his queen Henrietta; of order, surmounted by a pediment which archbishop Laud; and of the celebrated is crowned with statues. The park is lord Stafford dictating to his Secretary. about eight miles in circumference. In a large ball-room there are bronze
Within, the furniture, portraits, and figures of the Apollo Belvidere; the other decorations, are all in the old style: Venus de Medicis; the Antinous; and a
hangings and beds of crimson damask, Contemplating Philosopher, and two and of sky-blue velvet; the history of Dying Gladiators. Over the hall door Joseph in tapestry of Brussels, and rich
Indian are suspended a surprisingly broad pair
scenery in that of the Gobelins. of elk's horns, brought from lord Fitz- There is a fine allegorical fresco painting william's Irish estates. Within this of the Arts and Sciences, in a gallery, by noble mansion it will give every visitor Le Breuger; a beautiful portrait of a pleasure to see an elegant and comforta. duchess of Milan: many fine paintings, ble chapel: as well to hear that prayers are chiefly by Vandyke; the chief of which performed here every evening, when the is. Cain slaying Abel: and in a word, family are at liome. The chief object of all the blood of all the llowards, preserved Attention in the grounds, is an elegant in the veins of the proprietors of its diffemausoleum to the memory of the rent portions, who 'frown along the marquis of Rockingham. The inscrip- deserted galleries, some in armour, some tion is good, but too long: an inscription, in whiskers; and those of a still later like an epitaph, should be of such date, in their large wigs, and square shoes. dimensions as that he who runs may residence of the duke of Portland, stands
Welbeck, my next object, a seat and read.
By the time I entered Rotherham it about five miles from Worksop Manor. was quite dark; so that I had just time It is a poor shabby old place; but within, to take a hasty dinner, and fill up my the seat of elegance and hospitality. I day's pleasure by going to the play: Á was
was received most courteously by a strolling party were performing some housekeeper, who regretted her inability wretched piece, by desire of the Tickhill to conduct me through the house, the volunteers. The chief character, by the family being at home, and all the rooms two brushes which ran from his ears to occupied, My curiosity was conse
quently only gratified hy the view of a modate 150 guests, is hung round with Gothic library, which is not yet finished. appropriate paintings of' fish and fruits, This place was formerly a religious house by the best masters in each of these de of the Augustine friars. The park con
Every thing reflects the tains many old trees, particularly the highest credit on the taste displayed in celebrated Greendale oak, with a road the accommodations and ornaments cut through the trunk, and bearing one found in this delightful retreat. branch, which alone indicates its being The last of the dukeries is Thoresby, still in life.
formerly a seat of the duke of Kingston, From Welbeck I rode on to Clumber, but now possessed by Mr. Pierrepoint. and was there repaid for my late disap- There are no paintings of any consepointment, the family having fortunately quence in this mansion; and ihe only left the house to go to London only the object worthy of notice is a marble sapreceding day, and all the rich furniture loon with beautiful columns, a tessellared being still uncovered. Clumber combines pavement, and lamps in candelabras, magnificence and comfort, more than Having thus made good use of my time any nobleman's mansion in England. by completing, in one winter's day, the The whole house is richly carpeted; the tour of these four seats, I rode forward railings of the stair-cases curiouslywrought to Ollerton, where I was annoyed for and gilt in the shapes of crowns, with the rest of the evening, by riders boasts tassels hanging down between them from ing of their horses, their einployers, and cords twisted in kvots and festoons. All their consequence at inns. the bed rooms are decorated with superb The next morning I breakfasted at furniture; beds in the form of tents and Newark, which stands on
an island pavilions, curtains twisted in graceful formed by two branches of the Trente foldings, large, portable mirrors, ceilings which re-unite their streams a little below elegantly finished, Turkey carpetings, it. The castle was built by King Stepben; inlaid cabinets, and time-pieces mounted and here King John died. Near Newark with classical taste. There is a library, is found a kind of stone, which forms a a music-room, and an elegant chapel composition used as a substitute for with windows of stained glass. From stucco-work. My next stage was Grantthe duchess's dressing-room is seen a fine ham, from which place I rode forward yiew of the sheet of water terminated by to Belvoir Castle; but, unfortunately, a bridge, which forms one of the summer on arriving there in the dark, I found beauties of the place. The duke's pri- the whole of the inn occupied by vate study is as complete a bouidoir as servants belonging to the gentlemen vi. can well we imagined. In this princely sitors of the duke of Rutland : I found abode tbe wriser of romance might it necessary to go round two iniies before enrich his fancy, and the poet imagine I could reach an inn. To add to my himself wandering through an enchanted misfortunes I lost my way; and not uapalace; nor are nobler specimens of the til I had wandered about in the snow, arts here wanting. It would be tedious leading my borse for a couple of hours, to enumerate the paintings of the best did I reach the little comfortable hos, ancient and modern artists which adorn pitable inn of knipton. the walls of Clumber: there are an Ora Early next morning I walked to the tor, by Rembrandt; two small pieces, re. castle, which stands proudly on a compresenting Wild Scenes with Shepherds, manding eminence, from which the flat by Salvator Rosa; a Lion and Wild Boar, country is distinctly seen extending many by Rubens; and Two Boys, by Gainsbo- milcs. Great improvements are carrying rough: all admirable pictures. In the on, but the new rooms are paltry: when collection are paintings by Vandyke, compared internally, as the residence of Canaletti, Rubens, Battoni, Sneyders, peers, Clumber is a palace—Belvoir a "Old John, Wouverman, Teniers, Ciaude, pig,sty, The collection of paintings is and Van Huysum. Of the latter may be small, but very choice: here is a fine observed a Flower Piece, with a dew-drop Peter denying Christ, by M. Angelo; exquisitely resting on a tulip-leaf. One and other master-pieces, by Salvator Rosa romin is adorned with seven paintings in and Lucca Giordano; nor must I omit water colors, brought from the ruins of the original design of the window in New Herculaneuin. In the chapel there is College, the work of sir Joshua Reynolds. a Dead Christ and Mary, after Raphael. A full-length portrait of Henry VIII. by The larger dining room, a magnificent Slans Holbein, is said to be extremely Apartment, which could easily accome valuable.
Getting as quickly as I could move
and the day afterwards being Sunday, I over a vile cross country, I arriver in got early in the morning to Waltham Stamford, abounding in churches and Abbey. where I attended the morning aniquuies, in time to run out to Bur service, Waltham Abbey stands a mile leigh, and inspect the collection vetore from Waltham Cross, and to the east of the close of day. Lord Exeter's collec- the great road. Walthain Cross is one tion has been highly extolled; and it is of the memorials of Edward I. to his always with distrust and re uctance that queen; a beautiful Gothic structure in an individual should oppose the public high preservation. The church at Walvoice, yet I cannot ároid expressing my tham Alibey is raised on the site of the opinion that this celebrated assortment
old monastery. It was founded in 1062 is more numerous than select.
With by Harold, afterwards king of England; the exception of the wonderful Saviour's nothing now remains of it but a gate and Head, by Carlo Dolce; a Holy Family, bridge. Here Cranmer proposed the by Raphael; and one or two other pieces; measure of consulting the Universities on the rest are either uninteresting as to the propriety of Henry VIII.'s ditheir subjects, or the works of second- vorce. rale masters. Rubens's coarse figures, The way from hence to the metropolis dancing with their heads all on a level, extends through a line of delightful vil and having a broad light cast full in lages; and is one of the best approaches front, or Carlo Maratte's cold insipid per- to London. Enfield Highway, Scotland formances, meet the eye in every apart. Green, Edmonton, Tollwiam, Srainment.
llere are some ceilings finely ford Hill, Stoke Newington, Dalston, painted with mythological subjects, re- Kingsland, Islington, aitord a noble presenting lleaven and Tartarus. Among proof of the opulence and taste of the the curiosities, I observed a magnificent inhabitants of London, in presenting a state hed, and casts of the oxen of dif- succession of elegant villas, cerraces, and ferent counties.
ornamental cottages. I slept at Wantfordd, where the inn is goud, and so it ought, for the charges
For the Monthly Magazine. My next day's journey commenced
ACCOUNT of the FEJEE ISLANDS. with an
to Peterborough; where I got a good and cheap treakfast. (From the Sydney Gazette and New South
Wales Advertiser.] The ancient monastery of this place was founded in the seventh century. It was de
N the 7th of October last, which
OS stroyed by the Danes; and being rebuilt was shortly after the arrival at the by King Édgar, continued a mitred abbey Fejees of the Favourite, Capt. Campontil 1511, when Ilenry VIII. converted tell, Mr. Thomas Smith, his second ottiit iato a cathedral and bishop's see: the cer, was unexpectedly made prisoner by cathedral bas the finest front perhaps in the natives, with seven others of the England, next to the elevation of York ship's company, and reinained nine days Minster. Near the gate is the portrait in captivity; during which interval he of an old sexton, whu buried two queens. experienced and witnessed horrors, from The tomb of Queen Catherine, Henry his narrative of which the following VIII.'s first wife, is marked by a brass account is accurately deduced. plate. There are many figures of ab It begins with stating, that on the 7th bots; and a curious table, containing the of Ocuber he went from Sandal-wood names of all the abbots and bishops in Bay round to the Bay »f Iliyhlea, with chronological order. But the chief cu three boats, in quest ot Sandai-wood, one riosity is a tomb-stone lateiy dug up,
of which, the ship's long-boat, he combearing date of the year 870: it is in manded; another, a whale-boat, was the form of a small house.
under the command of a Mr. Lockerhy, I had now nearly completed my plan formerly chief officer of the American of seeing every thing interesting on the ship, Jenny; and the third, under road. I rode through Yasley, where Mir: Graham, who fortunately returned there are extensive barracks; Ştilton,
laden to the vessel in time to escape the celebrated for its cheese; lluntingdon, calainities that fell upon the former whuch had formerly fifteen churches ; two. At Highlea he heard that Bullan. and stopt for the night at Godmanches- dam, the chief of the district of Buya, jer, a mile beyond this place. The next was expected with a force to make war morning my way lay through Caxton and upon the island of Taffere or Tatea, and Roystou to Wade's Mill, near Warec that it was the intention of the lighleans