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are finely laid out: but alas! this was not the time of year for perceiving their beauties. The gallery contains some of the best paintings both of old and modern masters. One in particular struck me in going along: Swindlers drawing out a Card. There are many beautiful Views, in Switzerland. Here too is to be seen a fine portrait of the celebrated lord Stafford on horseback; and another picture representing three kings, all said to be of the Stafford family. Visitors are also shewn a room, called Queen Anne's room, where there is a table and mirror-frame, both of solid

silver.

Regretting that the opportunity of remaining in the gallery was so extremely short, I pushed on to Wentworth House, the noble palace of earl Fitzwilliam, and arrived in time to get a good view of the paintings. These are most valuable, being the elite of all the best masters. The chief of them are as follows: Jason killing the Dragon, by Salvator Rosa; Cupid Sleeping, by Guido; a Magdalen, by Titian; Bacchus, by sir Joshua Reynolds; Madona and Child, by Raphael: there are likewise several good pictures by Ostade, Teniers, and Domenichino. In other apartments are portraits of Charles I. and his queen Henrietta; of archbishop Laud; and of the celebrated lord Stafford dictating to his Secretary, In a large ball-room there are bronze figures of the Apollo Belvidere; the Venus de Medicis; the Antinous; and a Contemplating Philosopher, and two Dying Gladiators. Over the hall door are suspended a surprisingly broad pair of elk's horns, brought from lord Fitzwilliam's Irish estates. Within this noble mansion it will give every visitor pleasure to see an elegant and comforta ble chapel: as well to hear that prayers are performed here every evening, when the family are at home. The chief object of Attention in the grounds, is an elegant mausoleum to the memory of the marquis of Rockingham. The inscription is good, but too long: an inscription, like an epitaph, should be of such dimensions as that he who runs may

read.

By the time I entered Rotherham it was quite dark; so that I had just time to take a hasty dinner, and fill up my day's pleasure by going to the play. A strolling party were performing some wretched piece, by desire of the Tickhill volunteers. The chief character, by the two brushes which ran from his ears to

his chin, might have been well calculated for the part of Don Ferolos Whiskerandos. The music was that to which a bear would dance: and what little wit there was, seemed not ill fitted for a company which might be supposed would witness such a spectacle. One man sung a song betwixt the play and the farce, in the character of a cake-seller: each verse ended with the genteel burthen of “ All my eye and Betty Martin." One, and one only, of the stanzas remains in my memory; "The ladies they like bride-cake,

If they say they don't like the men,
It's all my eye and Betty Martin!"
and reached Worksop to
The next morning I arose before light,
breakfast.
At the end of the town, which is quite
uninteresting, a lodge indicates the
entrance to Worksop Manor, a seat of
the Norfolk family. It is a much more
magnificent mansion than the ridiculous
piece of mock-antique Arundel Castle
in its repaired state, to which the pre-
sent duke gives the preference as a reşi-
dence. The front is three hundred feet
in length, not quite so noble as that of
Wentworth House. In the centre is a
portico of six columns of the Corinthian
order, surmounted by a pediment which
is crowned with statues. The park is
about eight miles in circumference.

And of this I'm sure and sartain,

Within, the furniture, portraits, and other decorations, are all in the old style: hangings and beds of crimson damask, and of sky-blue velvet; the history of Joseph in tapestry of Brussels, and rich Indian scenery in that of the Gobelins. There is a fine allegorical fresco painting of the Arts and Sciences, in a gallery, by Le Breuger; a beautiful portrait of duchess of Milan: many fine paintings, chiefly by Vandyke; the chief of which is Cain slaying Abel: and in a word, all the blood of all the Howards, preserved in the veins of the proprietors of its different portions, who frown along the deserted galleries, some in armour, some in whiskers; and those of a still later date, in their large wigs, and square shoes.` residence of the duke of Portland, stands Welbeck, my next object, a seat and about five miles from Worksop Manor. It is a poor shabby old place; but within, the seat of elegance and hospitality. I was received most courteously by a housekeeper, who regretted her inability to conduct me through the house, the family being at home, and all the rooms occupied. My curiosity was conse

quently

"For every shrub, and every blade of grass, And every pointed thorn, seemed wrought in glass;

In pearls and rubies rich the hawthorns shew,

While through the ice the crimson berries glow;

The thick-sprung reeds which watery marshes
yield,

Seemed polished lances in a hostile field;
The stag in limpid currents, with surprise,
Sees crystal branches on his forehead rise;
The spreading oak, the beech, and tow'ring
pine,

Glazed over, in the freezing æther shine;
The frighted birds the rattling branches
shun,

Which wave and glitter in the distant sun."

nosa might have been just as suitab The whole is wretched. I would not g for five hundred such trumpery prod the crag a mile below Knaresborou tions. I must mention in justice, t the little bronze figure of the Venus Medicis, placed in the banqueting-hou is the most elegant imitation of that co brated statue. I have ever seen England.

Turning away in disgust from boasted beauties of Studleigh, we so arrive at a real beauty-the venera ruin of Fountaine's Abbey. This unquestionably the finest ruin in E land. It stands in a sequestered val near to which a modest river steals al between woods and rocks. Nothing fallen to ruin in Fountaine's Abb excepting the roof and some of the w dows. The chancel, the choir, cloisters, the dormitory, the kitchen, refectory, the chapter-house, and charnel-house, are all nearly entire; in some places the plaister remains the walls, painted so as to resemble la red stones nicely joined toget Fountaine's Abbey is a Gothic buildi it was formerly enriched with an revenues; and the Percy family, man whom are here buried, were conside as its chief benefactors. It was foun in 1132 by Thurstan, archbishop York; and an inscription over one of gates mentions its having been finis in the year 1202, seventy years from foundation: the length of the aisl three hundred and sixty feet, and cloister garden is entire.

A general idea of Hack-fall, which has been said to combine the beauties of Matlock and the Leasowes, may be obtained, by conceiving a rivulet falling in cascades down a narrow dell, betwixt two steep hills richly covered with wood, and interspersed with temples and ruins. From the top of one of these eminences may be seen a wide view of the North Riding of Yorkshire, bounded by distant hills. Hack-fall lies about four or five miles from the beautiful seat of its proprietor, Studleigh Park, which I entered at the northern gate, close to the house. After riding about half a mile through a lawn, I descended to a fine sheet of water, on the borders of which, even winter wore the look of spring. Studleigh Park is certainly highly cultivated; nature has done much, and art-more, in contributing towards its beauty. There are fine sloping hills covered with wood, and interspersed with temples; banquetinghouses, cold baths, and seats planted to catch noble prospects: and below are emooth lakes, and imitations of the best remains of ancient sculpture. Never theless, I cannot help differing from all travellers, by decidedly condemning the taste of it to be vile. Here all is art, and no nature; the principal sheet of water is divided into three compartments, resemoling a moon, and a crescent on each side of it. In the exact centre of these are dripping figures of Galen, Esculapius, and Niobe: corresponding figures are placed opposite to the half-moons on the banks-the Dying Gladiator, and the Wrestlers; while this abominable piece of Dogget-work, is supplied with water from a broad ribbon of a cascade not better than a mill-dam. Opposite, on the other side, is a temple of Piety, containing of all things in the world, a bust of Nero :-a bust of Spi

Riding on from Fountaine's Abbe passed through Ripley and Lower rowgate; and stopping all night at a s inn four miles beyond the latter pl arrived next morning in Leeds.

After resting some days, I again horse, and travelled through Wakef which I have described in a former to Barnsley, a wretched ugly little to where I got a bad breakfast. Sa Castle lies in the way within a mi Wakefield, well known to be celebr for a famous battle between the W and Red Roses. From Barnsle proceeded to Wentworth Castle, w I was led through the picture-gal though in a great hurry, by the h keeper, who had more important ness in hand-the making of jellies blamanges. Wentworth Castle family seat of the Stafford family, stands nobly on the summit of a covered with old trees.

The gro

are finely laid out: but alas! this was not the time of year for perceiving their beaties. The gallery contains some of the best paintings both of old and modern masters. One in particular struck me in going along: Swindlers drawing out a Card. There are many beautiful Views, in Switzerland. Here too is to be seen a fine portrait of the celebrated lord Stafford on horseback; and another picture representing three kings, all said to be of the Stafford family. Visitors are also shewn a room, called Queen Anne's room, where there is a table and mirror-frame, both of solid

silver.

Regretting that the opportunity of remaining in the gallery was so extremely short, I pushed on to Wentworth House, the noble palace of earl Fitzwilliam, and arrived in time to get a good view of the paintings. These are most valuable, being the elite of all the best masters. The chief of them are as follows: Jason killing the Dragon, by Salvator Rosa; Cupid Sleeping, by Guido; a Magdalen, by Titian; Bacchus, by sir Joshua Rey nolds; Madona and Child, by Raphael: there are likewise several good pictures by Ostade, Teniers, and Domenichino. In other apartments are portraits of Charles I. and his queen Henrietta; of archbishop Laud; and of the celebrated lord Stafford dictating to his Secretary. In a large ball-room there are bronze figures of the Apollo Belvidere; the Venus de Medicis; the Antinous; and a Contemplating Philosopher, and two Dying Gladiators. Over the hall door are suspended a surprisingly broad pair of elk's horns, brought from lord Fitzwilliam's Irish estates. Within this noble mansion it will give every visitor pleasure to see an elegant and comforta ble chapel: as well to hear that prayers are performed here every evening, when the family are at home. The chief object of attention in the grounds, is an elegant mausoleum to the memory of the Darquis of Rockingham. The inscription is good, but too long: an inscription, like an epitaph, should be of such dimensions as that he who runs may

read.

By the time I entered Rotherham it was quite dark; so that I had just time to take a hasty dinner, and fill up my day's pleasure by going to the play. A strolling party were performing some wretched piece, by desire of the Tickhill volunteers. The chief character, by the two brushes which ran from his ears to

his chin, might have been well calculated for the part of Don Ferolos Whiskerandos. The music was that to which a bear would dance: and what little wit there was, seemed not ill fitted for a company which might be supposed would witness such a spectacle. One man sung a song betwixt the play and the farce, in the character of a cake-seller: each verse ended with the genteel burthen of—“ All my eye and Betty Martin." One, and one only, of the stanzas remains in my memory; "The ladies they like bride-cake,

If

they say they don't like the men,
It's all my eye and Betty Martin!"

And of this I'm sure and sartain,

and reached Worksop to breakfast. The next morning I arose before light, At the end of the town, which is quite uninteresting, a lodge indicates the entrance to Worksop Manor, a seat of the Norfolk family. It is a much more magnificent mansion than the ridiculous piece of mock-antique Arundel Castle in its repaired state, to which the present duke gives the preference as a reşiin length, not quite so noble as that of Wentworth House. In the centre is a portico of six columns of the Corinthian order, surmounted by a pediment which is crowned with statues. The park is about eight miles in circumference.

dence. The front is three hundred feet

Within, the furniture, portraits, and other decorations, are all in the old style: hangings and beds of crimson damask, and of sky-blue velvet; the history of Joseph in tapestry of Brussels, and rich Indian scenery in that of the Gobelins. There is a fine allegorical fresco painting of the Arts and Sciences, in a gallery, by Le Breuger; a beautiful portrait of a duchess of Milan: many fine paintings, chiefly by Vandyke; the chief of which is Cain slaying Abel: and in a word, all the blood of all the Howards, preserved in the veins of the proprietors of its different portions, who frown along the deserted galleries, some in armour, some in whiskers; and those of a still later date, in their large wigs, and square shoes. residence of the duke of Portland, stands Welbeck, my next object, a seat and about five miles from Worksop Manor. It is a poor shabby old place; but within, the seat of elegance and hospitality. I was received most courteously by a housekeeper, who regretted her inability to conduct me through the house, the family being at home, and all the rooms occupied. My curiosity was conse

quently

to aid his enterprise. The next morning the two boats prepared to return to the vessel, but were cut off by Bullandam's fleet of canoes, 140 in number, orderly advancing in a semicircle; and finding it impossible to to pass them, it was considered as advisable to bear up to the fleet, hoping by such display of confidence to preserve the lives of the crews., When within hail they were ordered to advance; but the whale boat was prevented by a large canoe bearing down and running aboard, cutting her in two. Mr. Lockerby and the crew were picked up and made prisoners, and Mr. Sinith and the long boat's people were made prisoners likewise. The captors were about to dispatch some of the people with their spears and clubs, but were prevented by the chief commanding the canoe, until the superior chief should be consulted. When presented to Bullandam, he proposed to employ them in his intended assault against Taffere, in which he proposed to himself much assistance from their muskets; and seemed much disappointed when informed that the powder was spoilt, and the guns useless. He had no wish, however, to commit any personal injury on his prisoners; but on the contrary, shewed some attention to Mr. Smith, whom he respected as an officer, and generally invited to accompany him when he went on shore, always endeavouring to sooth his apprehensions, and quiet his solicitude of returning with his companions to the ship, by an assurance that as soon as the island of Taffere was subjugated, and its inhabitants destroyed, he would employ all his subjects in procuring wood for the vessel, to which they should be returned in safety.

On the 11th of October, the junction of forces being thoroughly arranged, an immense fleet of canoes sailed from Highlea for the expedition, and having a fresh head-wind, the canoes were set to windward by poles, at the rate of three knots an hour. At night this formidable armament came to, round the north-east part of the island; and BulJandam took Mr. Smith on shore, to pass the night with him; his night guard consisting of ten men armed with spears and

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the van coming to close action with a fleet belonging to the island.

The attack was made with arrows at a distance; and as the canoes of Taffere maintained their position, they soon closed, when a desperate and stubborn conflict with spears commenced. The islanders, however, at length gave way to numbers very far superior, and to escape an otherwise certain destiny all leaped into the water, and swam towards the shore, from which a division of Bullandam's fleet was endeavouring to cut them off. The canoes were taken possession of, with only one captive, an unfortunate boy, who being presented to the relentless chief, was ordered to be slaughtered, as it was his determination that not a single life should be spared. This ruthless sentence was immediately executed with a club, three blows from which the youthful sufferer endured, and then expired: the body was afterwards given into the charge of an attendant, to be roasted for the chief and his principal associates. The horrors that immediately succeeded the defeat, the most sensible imagination can but faintly represent. A massacre was determined on; and as the men had escaped the fury of their conquerors by flight, the women and children became the chief object of search; on which mission a canoe was dispatched, and unhappily the fatal discovery was very soon made. On a signal from the shore numbers landed, and a hut was set fire to, proba. bly as a signal for the work of destruction to commence. Within a cluster of mangroves the devoted wretches had taken sanctuary; many might undoubtedly have secured themselves by accompanying the flight of their vanquished husbands and relatives, could they have consented to a separation from their helpless children, who were no less devoted than themselves. A dreadful yell was the forerunner of the assault; the ferocious monsters rushed upon them with their clubs, and without regard to sex or infancy, promiscuously butchered all. Some who still had life and motion were treated as dead bodies, which were mostly dragged to the beach by one of their limbs, and through the water into the canoes; their groans were disregarded, and their unheeded protracted sufferings were still more hurtful to the feelings of humanity than even the had been. general massacre itself Among the slaughtered were some few men whose age perhaps had prevented

their flight; but, in fact, so sudden and so dread ul was the consternation that succeeded the defeat of the unhappy natives of Tafere, as no doubt to paralyse the minds of the wretched creatures, when prompt consideration could alone be serviceable to their deplorable condition. The conquerors appeared to anticipate with inordinate delight, the festival with which this sad event had gratified their horrible expectation. Forty-two bodies were extended on one platform in Bullandam's canoe; and one of these, a young female, appearing most to attract his attention, he desired that his second in command would have it laid by for themselves.

The Tafferians being wholly defeated and dispersed, the island was taken possession of by Bullandam's forces, which were very numerous. This principal chief invited Mr. Smith on shore, as he seemed inclined to shew him favour; and Mr. Smith declares it to be one of the most beautiful places he had ever seen: the houses, in number about a hundred, ranged on the declivity of a hill, interspersed with cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and other trees, and each house defended with a wall of piled stone. The buildings were however ail set fire to by Bullandam's order; and Mr. Smith becoming solicitous for his release, was informed by the chief, that as soon as all the victims were devoured, he should be set at liberty with his companions. The dead bodies were got into the canoes, and the whole fleet left Taffere on their return to the main island, where many others joined in the horrible festivity, which was conducted with rude peals of acclamation. Mr. Smith was on this occasion also taken on shore by the great chief, and here had again to experience a detestable spectacle. The bodies had been dismembered of their limbs, which were suspended on the boughs of trees in readiness for cookery; and afterwards part of a human leg was offered to Mr. Smith, who had never broke his fast for five days. The offer he rejected with abhorrence; and upon his captors appear ing astonished at the refusal, he gave them to understand, that if he ate of human flesh he would instantly die. They were satisfied with this excuse, and continued their abominable festivity the whole night.

On the 15th, the chief in the canoe that captured Mr. Smith's boat, applied to Bullandam for the prisoners, and the

long boat, in order to return them to their ship, declaring his intention to demand three whale teeth and twelve hatchets for their rausom; but this proposal was not then attended to. Twenty or thirty men then arrived at the place of rendezvous, each bringing a basket of human flesh half roasted; which mode, Mr. Smith learnt, they took to preserve it. The day of deliverance at length approached from a captivity the most afflicting, from a diversity of causes that man could be exposed to; and after enduring it nine days, and totally fasting, he was at length turned over to the charge of the chief of Niri, with orders to demand the ransom for himself, and six of his companions. But previous to quitting the voracious party, a new incident of cruelty occurred. One of the unfortunate inhabitants of Taffere had swam from his distressed island to the main, but was perceived as soon as he gained the shore, and was in consequence pursued by a multitude, armed with bows and arrows, spears and clubs: the pursuit terminated with the life of the wretched fugitive, whose body presented a new source of exultation and cannibal festivity.

On the 16th, Mr. Smith was restored to his overjoyed shipmates, with all his companions except two, one of whom was Mr. Lockerby, who were afterwards indebted for their rescue to a determined perseverance in the captain, his officers, and people, which was highly creditable and meritorious. Mr. Smith, Mr. Lockerby, and all the others, had been repeatedly on the very point of assassination, to which these people seem to possess no kind of repugnance whatsoever, but on the contrary, it appears their chief object of delight. Their determined obstinacy in effecting every thing they attempt, can alone be equalled by the extraordinary precision of their arrangements, which are planned methodically, and executed with an energy and calmness that surprise, even an European; with strength of body they possess a thorough contempt of danger, and a heeilessness of pain. conqueror, Bullandam, has already be come terrible, and bids fair to possess hinseif of the sole sovereignty of the islands. But though implacable and sanguinary in his resentments, yet we are assured that in his disposition, strong traces of kindness were perceivable towards all except the enemies of his arms.

Their preset

To

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