condition in which the ladies were placed, from whom we now heard no complaints save occasionally from the elder, her constant expression of "Mon Dieu, mon Dieu!"

The same anxiety on account of our mules, continued until late in the afternoon, when we issued from the forest and obtained the first sight of Cruses at a short distance.

At the sight of this village of wooden huts and sheds, our poor animals exhibited a freshness we were not prepared to expect, and we reached the place about an hour before dark, and took up our quarters at a hut that had been recommended to us before we left Panama. The distance we had travelled during nearly two entire days was only twenty-one miles, having been upon the backs of our mules precisely the same number of hours.

If we were not quite so tired as our wretched mules when we arrived, we were probably quite as hungry; we therefore made immediate inquiries as to the possibility of obtaining a dinner, and being favourably answered, seated ourselves upon some benches to await the welcome repast. We waited, however, till it was nearly dark, and with some satisfaction, from the assurance which we felt, that the longer our patience was tried, the better dressed would be our viands. We now began however to be tired of the delay though we were somewhat assured by observing pots boiling over a good fire at the back of the hut. Still the time passed, and nothing came. Our inquiries were, however, always favourably answered, and we contented ourselves with

asking for a little bread to satisfy our immediate wants, when we had the disappointment to find that that luxury, at all events, was not to be obtained. But what was worse, we now discovered that the very meat we supposed had been for some time cooking for us, had not yet arrived.

"Meat is very scarce just now," said the landlord, “but I have sent to the extremity of the village and we shall soon have more than we require."

After this consolation, we waited probably another half-hour, when finding nothing arrive, we sallied forth to see if we could get anything ourselves.

But we

were unsuccessful, and had scarcely the satisfaction of receiving civil answers where we inquired. However, when we returned, we received the welcome news that our dinner was now actually cooking.

Soon after this, a large bowl of stewed meat was brought, and wooden plates and spoons were spread on the ground, so that, after placing the ladies, we began to serve the fine stew, without a word of inquiry respecting the meat of which it was composed, whether mutton, beef, or pork, or something more dainty still. The ladies began to eat, but were so shocked by the strange taste, that they could take but very little, while the smell so disgusted my friend, that he could do no more than just taste the mess. Both the taste and smell however were more familiar to myself, and I trust hunger will be an excuse for my making a hearty meal upon what we afterwards found was mule's flesh.

We learned, indeed, in the morning, after being assured by our landlord that he had given us beef for our

supper, that such was the scarcity of wholesome provisions, that parties lay about near the commencement of the road we had travelled, prepared to divide the carcass of every mule that fell from exhaustion after the journey from Panama. We had therefore the satisfaction of being assured that the animal of which we had eaten did not die of any disease.

After our supper we laid ourselves down upon some dried grass which our landlord had provided, and slept very well during the night.

135

CHAP. XXX.

PASSAGE DOWN THE RIVER CHAGRES.-CARTAGENA. VOYAGE TO JAMAICA.

Engage a Passage to Chagres. - Inspection of Cruses.- American Travellers.-Embarkation on the River.- Contrary Wind. - Current in our Favour. Beauty of the Scenery.— Geological Remarks.— The Alligator. - Parrots. - Other wild Animals. Settlement of Gorgona. Disputes with the Boatmen.. Moor for the Night.Wild Honey. Arrival at Chagres. - Embark for Cartagena. Cross the Bay of Darien.— Cartagena. — Manner of Dressing the young Folks.-Sail for Jamaica.-Church Service on board.- First Sight of Jamaica. - Port Royal.

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ON the morning after our arrival at Cruses, my friend and myself rose at an early hour and proceeded to the place of embarkation on the river Chagres, to ascertain what prospect we had of getting a passage to the port, where we were certain of sooner or later finding a steamer bound to Jamaica.

On arriving at the river side, finding no want of boats, we engaged one to carry the two ladies and ourselves, and to sail in two or three hours. Pleased with this good fortune, we returned to our hut; and after giving the ladies notice to prepare for the voyage, set out again to make a little survey of the wooden village, and if possible, purchase some provisions for our voyage.

The North Americans of the present day have never been excelled in laying out the plans for future towns. The towns generally in the Northern States, and some under the British rule in Canada, shame the memory of the governments under whose direction the greater part of the cities of Europe and Asia were founded. The Spaniards, in their new settlements in America, and the Russians in theirs in Europe and Asia, have often been tolerably exact in the laying out of towns; but it is plain that a North American hand has been here. Thus this little embryo town, where we scarcely saw two houses within forty or fifty paces of each other, is laid out in broad streets and squares, such as its future occupiers will rejoice in, when the forest around is converted into the fruitful plantations for which it is doubtless destined.

As we made our way among the huts, amidst the travellers that were preparing to depart for the stations from which we came, we observed that the greater part of them were North Americans. There were however some English, and a few French, but we did not perceive any Spaniards. One or two small parties had mules, but the greater part were on foot. provided with beasts were nearly all

Those who were going to Peru or

Chili, but the greater part were on their direct way to California.

The North Americans were the most particular in their inquiries concerning the road to Panama, and some of them appeared much disappointed at the best accounts it was in our power to give them. They were generally well equipped, and provided with necessaries