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CHAP. XXXVI.

JOURNEY TOWARDS MEXICO- continued.

Departure from Jalapa. - Fir-Trees. - Cultivation.— Maguey.- Aloes. —Pulque.—Character of the Pulque.- Process of making the Pulque. -The Organas Plant.- · Arrival at Perote.— Height of the Town.— Fertile and cultivated Country. - Breakfast at Nopolvica.-Puebla. — The Plaza.-Cathedral.-Industry of the Inhabitants. - Churches.— Reported Miracle. Leave Puebla. - Farm of Rio Frio. - Escape from Robbers. - Caravan guarded. — A tricksy Animal. - Mineral Baths. First View of the City of Mexico. — Arrival.

AFTER breakfast the next morning we took our departure from Jalapa.

On our journey as far as Miguel de Soldaso we passed over a country extremely picturesque, where we had often a fine view of the mountains, especially of Arizabo; while immediately around us, we observed more cultivated land than we had before seen.

We were informed that the maize will grow here at all seasons, and that many of the farmers take three the same year, and some even four, while it is not uncommon for them to take two off the same fields.

crops off different parts of the land durin

At twelve o'clock this day, as we were still on the ascent, we observed the first fir-trees, and after passing Vigus we crossed over a volcanic tract of country where the lava was lying just in the same manner as in many

of the islands in the Pacific Ocean, broken into cakes of from ten to fifteen feet square, and thrown into vast heaps where very little vegetation appears.

The country after this was well cultivated with fields of wheat, and maguey or aloes. I do not indeed remember anywhere seeing aloes growing so luxuriantly.

This plant is very serviceable to the inhabitants and is one of the most valuable productions of the country. It grows to an immense size; and we were shown fields of great extent where each plant was valued at four dollars. From the filaments of the broad leaves are made cords of various sizes; and from the stem or part that may be termed the heart of the plant as it supplies the flowers, is drawn a quantity of juice from which is produced a favourite liquor called pulque which we often tasted, and which deserves to be particularly mentioned.

This pulque is considered a very delicate beverage; but we were told that it could not be transported quite sound even to Vera Cruz. All the foreigners of our party, except myself, disliked it extremely. The taste is rather sharp, and the colour is such as milk would take with a small quantity of anything green put into it. It is drunk by the people in such quantities that although it appears weaker than our table-beer, one man informed us that he frequently contrived to drink enough to inebriate himself. Those, however, who do experience this advantage from the beverage must certainly drink a great deal or have very weak stomachs or brains; for, upon one occasion when very thirsty, I

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drank four tumblers of it within a short space of time without feeling the smallest inebriating effects.

In order to obtain the juice of the plant, the stem is blown into the form of a gourd, after which the juice is extracted, from which not only the pulque is composed but also a spirit called mescal which is made as strong as brandy.

The plant appears to have been much used by the ancient Mexicans by whom it was called octhli. It is sown in long rows in the fields, requires but little manure and very little care, yet attains great perfection on poor soils. When the juice is nicely drawn, it tastes very much like the sap of the maple, and is rather sweet though insipid, but has no smell.

The process of making the pulque is very simple. The juice of the plant is fermented by mixing it with a small portion of some already in a state of fermentation; and, we were told that the beverage is in perfection as early even as twenty-four hours after the juice is drawn from the plant.

The consumption of the pulque is very great in this region, and from the fibres of the plant from which it is drawn is made a very useful sort of brown thread; and it is said that cloth might be manufactured from the same fibres.

Besides the maguey there are several other species of luxuriant vegetation which attract the eye of the traveller very frequently in these regions, and are novel to the European. That which appeared to us the most abundant was, the organas, which receives its name from the resemblance of its stalks to the pipes of the

organo or organ. It is a species of cactus, and being covered with prickles is usually cultivated for fences where these are required.

About sunset we arrived at Perote; and finding we were to set off again at two o'clock the next morning, went as soon as possible to bed.

When we were called at half-past one on the morning of the 27th we found the thermometer near the freezing point; but as the height given to the town by Humboldt is 10,000 feet, this did not surprise us. At about two o'clock we re-entered our vehicle and resumed our journey.

We now came upon a plain of fifty miles in breadth; and as the day broke we observed the country to be fertile, generally cultivated, and producing maize, corn and maguey; while the distant scenery around was extremely picturesque.

Had it not been for the peaks of the mountains being everywhere visible, the country through which we now passed might have been said to resemble many parts of Europe. There was no appearance of divisions between the fields save such as was caused by their varying aspect when covered with different crops, and the trees were planted as sparely as in most parts of Spain.

We breakfasted at Nopolvica, and after travelling ten leagues, the country being of the same description, reached the city of Puebla, where we remained until the next day.

Puebla is a handsome well built city and contains about 75,000 inhabitants, the greater portion of whom

are of the mixed and coloured races. We were much struck by the appearance of the streets as we entered; and, as soon as we had taken some refreshment, all set off together to visit the places most worthy of a stranger's inspection.

We first came upon the grand square, on one side of which stands the cathedral which is of mixed architecture. It is a fine edifice within and without, and perhaps unequalled by any in old Spain save that at Seville. The other sides are formed by fairly built houses which appear to be exclusively inhabited by families of the commercial classes.

All the town appeared to be well paved except some few streets where the houses were generally in a state of decay; and we observed more appearance of cleanliness in the town than is commonly seen in European towns of equal size, while the streets at night were tolerably lighted.

Those who are well acquainted with Puebla give the inhabitants the very best character for their mechanical industry which is much favoured by the extraordinary fertility of the surrounding country, for the produce of which the town is the best market. The cotton manufactories, are said to be the most valuable, their produce being sent to all parts of the country.

This city is the seat of a bishopric and is said to have some of the most wealthy of the clergy of Mexico resident within its walls. Among its numerous churches those of San Domingo, San Francisco and the Jesuits, are the most remarkable. The paintings within