have been proftrations,) and laying my prefents before him, I was conducted to a cushion prepared for me in the middle of the apartment. Several copper platters filled with rice, butter, treacle, tea, walnuts, cashmerean dates, apricots, cucumbers, and other fruits, were fet before me, together with a little wooden ftool. All this paffed in filence. Then a man entered with a filver kettle full of buttered tea, and having poured a little into his palm, he drank it off, filled a dish to the Rajah, and went round to all his officers. Every Boutean carries for thefe occafions, a little black wooden cup, glazed in the infide, wrapped in a bit of cloth, and lodged within the tunick oppofite to his heart, and next the skin: but not being fo well provided, I got a china cup. After all the dishes were filled, the Debe Rajah faid a grace, in which he was joined by all the company, and then opened his mouth and fpoke to me. we had finished our tea, and every man had licked his cup, and returned it into his bofom, a flowered fattin gown, with wellplaited skirts, was brought. I was dreffed in it, as in a Khellaut*, a red pillon handkerchief was tied round me for a girdle, and I was carried to the Rajah, who bound my head with another, and fqueezing my temples, put fomething on my head, which I afterwards found to be the image of the god Sandia, and muttered fome prayers over me. He then tied two filk handerchiefs together, and threw them over my fhoulders. I was re conducted to my cushion; we had two or three more dishes of tea, as many graces, a cup or two of whisky, and beetle-nut. I then retired.

When

"The walls of the prefence chamber are hung round with Chinese landscapes, mixed with deities painted on fattin. The ceiling and pillars are covered with the fame furniture, and at the lower end of the room, are three or four images placed in niches. Before them are cenfors burning with incenfe, lamps fed by butter, little filver pagodas and urns, elephants teeth, flowers, &c. the whole ornamented with filks, ribbons, and other gew-gaws.

"The palace is a very large building, and contains near 3000 men, but not one woman. Of thefe, above 1000 may be gylongs; others are adherents of the former Rajahs, who are kept in a kind of imprisonment; and the rest are Officers of the Rajah and Lama, with all their train of fervants. A tower of about five or fix ftories high rifes in the middle, and is appropriated to the Lama Rambokay; he dwells near the top, and his apartments are furnished in the fame ftile with the Rajah's, but better. In the former chief's time, nobody could fee him; but times are altered. We were received by him as by the Rajah, excepting the ceremony of the Khellaut, and the whisky. After the first vifits, he used to receive

A Knellaut is a dress of honour prefented in Hindoftan, by men of rank, to vifitors of diftinction, but it is generally in pieces, and not made up. The number of pieces, and their quality, are in proportion to the rank of the perfons to whom they are prefented.'

This is, I prefume, the chief priest of Boutan.'

us without ceremony, and appears to have more curiofity than any man I have feen in this country.

"This palace is in the highest degree monkish. The Rajah, his priests, his officers and fervants, are all immured like itate prifoners in an immenfely large building, and there are not above a dozen other houfes in the town.

The palace gates are fhut when it grows dark, and no one is allowed to go in or out till morning. The inhabitants of it feldom ftir abroad more than once in ten or twelve days, when they go in a ftring of 500 or 600 to bathe in the Tfchinlehoo. They feem to lead a joyless, and I think, idle life; for fo much authority is given to the provincial governors, that not much bufinefs is done here. The court has little connexion with foreign powers, unless it be with the Tefhoo Lama, and ftill lefs intercourfe with strangers. All thofe who live in the palace, are dressed in a dark red woollen cloth."

Many other curious particulars refpecting the Lamas, and the religion of the country, will be found in this fketch. The additions made to this work are fo valuable, that it was very defirable that they fhould have been printed feparately, for the accommodation of the purchafers of the first edition. The author, (who, as we learn from the advertisement, is Mr. Quintin Craufurd,) expreffes his regret that this was rendered. impoffible, by the neceflity of intermixing much of the new matter with what was before published.

E.

ART. IV. Travelling Memorandums, made in a Tour upon the Continent of Europe, in the Years 1786, 1787, and 1788; by the Honourable Lord Gardenstone. Small 8vo. pp. 266. 3s. fewed. Nicol. 1791.

F the reader fhould take up this volume with the moderate expectation of being agreeably amused, rather than of receiving any very important information, he will fuffer no difappointment. It is pleafing to accompany a good-humoured* and intelligent traveller through the feveral stages of his journey, and to liften to a detail of particulars, which become interesting as part of the general narrative. This noble traveller relates, with the ease of a gentleman, fuch occurrences as, in the courfe of his tour, he thought worthy of a place in his memorandum-book. He perhaps details the ordinary incidents of travelling more minutely than fome readers might wish: but these particulars may be found very ufeful to the traveller; and

We meet with nothing in thefe Memorandums to prevent our applying this epithet to the author, except a peevith, and, as far as we know, unprovoked cenfure of profeffional critics, as for the moft part neither wife nor impartial judges.' they

they are mixed with facts and remarks of a more general nature, fufficient to make the book, on the whole, very entertaining. From thefe mifcellaneous obfervations, we fhall felect a few paffages.

The tour commenced in September 1786. Lord Gardenftone firft vifited Paris, where the narrative furnishes nothing worthy of felection. At Lyons, he met with an agreeable acquaintance, M. Clair, of whom he relates the following particulars :

M. Clair is a French gentleman advanced in years, but, in fpirit, perfectly youthful, and in character, he appears a true philofopher. I have occafion to obferve and to know, that he delights in offices of kindness and humanity, without any object of intereft. -Though his incomes, from a fmall eftate in the neighbourhood, are very moderate, his habits of life are correfponding, frugal, fimple, and genteel;-and he often fays, I believe fincerely, "Give me a ducal fortune, I will not, I cannot, alter my mode of living in any one article,-fo I have no motive of difcontent, or defire for more than I poffefs."-His opinions are fenfible and liberal, untainted by any fort of prejudice, and improved by ftudies of literature. He prognofticates great changes in France.

With generous fervour, he often faid nearly these words, which I fhall not forget:-" The lights of human reafon derived from God himself, are now generally propagated in this country, and we defpife the fuperftition of Papal power;-fo that in ten years time, we may have Catholics;-but we fhall not have one difinterested Papift in France."

It should be recollected, that this converfation paffed before the commencement of the French revolution.

Lord G. is frequently very particular in relating circumftances concerning his regimen, and the means which he uses for the preservation of his health, which was his principal motive for undertaking this tour. At Aix in Provence, after mentioning that there were only three cows to fupply the whole town with milk, and that he paid one fhilling fterling for an English quart, he adds:

I have for many years been in the practice, almost every morning, in bed, of drinking about an English pint of warm milk from the cow, mixed with a little fugar, and a table fpoonful of good rum, the strength and fpirit of which is extinguished, and you tafte only its cordial flavour.-In place of the fugar I have long ufed a table-fpoonful of honey;-it is a moft delicious, nourishing, and falutary dofe. I have often been thanked for this prefcription, which I had at fecond hand from the great Dr. Mead, who found in many cafes that it was fuccefsful, when the milk of affes, or mares, and even of women, had failed: I now therefore fet it down for the benefit of others, to ufe the words, without the infincerity of quacks.'

In the country of Provence, he found a long-established ufage, fimilar to the customs and manners of the Highlands of Scotland:

During the feafon of harvest, and their vintages, the inhabitants of the mountainous parts of this country, and of their adjoining villages, affemble in bodies or hordes, and paffing through the low countries, and fertile diftricts, they perform vintage and harveft work for very moderate wages.-Many of them continue to be employed, in the induftrious towns and villages, during winter, and return home when the fpring advances.-If we form our opinion of thefe vagrant focieties from their innocence and jollity, they fay, and I believe justly, that we muft rank them among the happielt of mankind, for this is the life of nature. They laugh and fing, and dance, without vice, excefs of any kind, or irregular gratifications. Though they lye promifcuously for most part in barns and outhoufes, the chastity of their wives and young girls is Jefs fufpected than in the ranks of affluent and indolent life, with all the restraints of pious or polite education.'

The inhabitants of Marfeilles our traveller describes as a people enjoying an extraordinary and enviable measure of public profperity and private happiness:

They reckon above two hundred thousand inhabitants;-yet the progrefs of building and population goes on rapidly.-Though the Old Town is ill built, and indeed very nafty, it is moftly inhabited by a numerous, ufeful, and uncorrupted body of people ;fishermen, and their families.-They still preferve the fimple manners, industry, and frugality of their remote ancestors.- Strangers may eafily diftinguish them from the rest of the people by their drefs; the ruddy freshness of their complexions, and by the appearance of their perfons, which are visibly more hardy and robust. -They have been for ages paft all memory an incorporated body, and have enjoyed certain privileges, which are regularly confirmed by letters patent from every king after his acceffion.-In particular, they chufe their own judges, who are four in number, and are called Les prudes hommes.

The charge of a law-fait before them, by regulation ftrictly obferved, cannot exceed two-pence halfpenny fterling to each party, and this fum is configned when they enter the court.-Thofe ruftic natural judges, felected by the people fubject to their jurifdiction, have maintained an uniform reputation for the good fenfe and integrity of their determinations.

On the Sabbath-day, after divine fervice is over, they, it is thought very properly, hold their courts of juftice here. This day, with my ufual companion, I attended two of them; first, in the town hall, where I faw the Echevins, or magiftrates, and their affeffors, fitting in judgment. They tried and determined, both with proper deliberation and dispatch, feveral caufes relative to the peace, good order, and police. I was next conducted to the falle, or chamber, where thofe remarkable judges, called les prudes hommes, hold their courts.-All the four judges were prefent.-I was really

charmed

charmed with the artlefs manner, the fimple dignity, and the unaffected folemnity of their appearance. I verily thought I faw in all their faces a great degree of natural fagacity and integrity ;and I doubted not that their community had felected their fittest men. They have no drefs or robe of diftinction.-Shakespear fays, -"Robes and furr'd gowns hide all defects."-Thefe artificial ornaments of power and office are unneceffary, when natural merit and probity in public fervice command refpe&t.-They obferve no forms; they admit no pleaders ;-but they hear and interrogate the parties, and, if neceffary, examine witneffes; like the Roman judices pedanei, they determine in the most fummary manner, and parties are generally fatisfied. Thefe judges had antiently a jurifdiction to try criminal cafes, and even to inflict capital punishment; but their power has for a long time been limited to the preservation of the peace among fishers, and to all civil questions concerning fisheries within a certain territory-In all competent cafes, their determinations are final, and without any appeal.-My conductor told them that I was a judge in a far diftant country;-upon which they all paid refpects to me, in a very obliging manner.➡ One of them attended me, to show and defcribe fome ornaments and pictures in their hall, which I did not admire. He was the fenior judge, and an excellent looking man; but he spoke a fort of Patois language, which I did not understand without my interpreter.'

The traveller purfued his route from Marfeilles to Toulon, and interrupts his narrative, to introduce fundry critical remarks on works which he read during his tour, particularly those of Crebillon, Moliere, and Voltaire: but as we do not think his Lordship particularly fuccefsful in the character of a critic, we pafs over thefe ftrictures, to leave room for another extract, more deferving of attention; namely, an account of the great public granary at Geneva:

This granary is a very large old building of fix ftories.-Every ftory forms one apartment for grain ungrinded only,-becaufe meal or grinded grain can by no means be long preferved.-The di menfions of each apartment are the fame-in length about thirtyfix of my paces by twenty-four in breadth-and about nine feet in height. To fupport the great extent of floor, and fuch a weight of grain, there are very large and folid wooden pillars, through every apartment from top to bottom.-There are fix rows of thefe pillars, and nine pillars in every row; the distance of one pillar from another is fix of my paces.-The grain is mostly wheat purchased sometimes from different parts of France, very much from Franch County, a fertile territory not very far diftant. They alfo import, occafionally, large quantities from Barbary, and from Sardinia. The lowest flat of this granary is ftored with as much grain as can be packed or heaped in it, and the quantity is gradually diminished as they rife to the upper ftories, for the obvious purpose of faving labour and expence.-Every apartment has many windows which are opened in dry weather, for the benefit of ventilation.-before they lodge the grain, it is mo

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derately