vered, Suet. Jul. 82. Liv. viii. 9. Hence Fabius, the Roman ambassador, when he denounced war in the senate of Carthage, is said to have poured out, (sinum effudisse), Liv. xxi. 18. or shaken out the lap of his toga, (excussisse toga gremium), Flor. ii. 6. Dionysius says the form of the toga was semicircular, iii. 61.

The toga in latter times had several folds, but anciently few or none, (veteribus nulli sinus), Quinctilian. xi. 3. These folds when collected in a knot or centre, Virg. Æn. i. 324.were called UMBO, which is put for the toga itself, Pers. v. 33.

When a person did any work, he tucked up (succingebat) his toga, and girded it (astringebat) round him: Hence Accingere se operi vel ad opus, or oftener, in the passive accingi, to prepare, to make ready. See p. 72..

The toga of the rich and noble, was finer and larger (laxior) than of the less wealthy, Horat. Eped. iv. 8. Epist. i. 18. 30. A new toga was called PEXA, when old and thread-bare, trita, Id. Ep. i. 95. Martial. ii. 44. 58.

The Romans were at great pains to adjust (componere) the toga, that it might sit properly, (ne impar dissideret), and not draggle (nec deflueret), Horat. Sat. ii. 3. 77. i. 3. 31. Epist. i. 1. 95. Quinctil. xi. 3. Macrob. Sat. ii. 9.

The form of the toga was different at different times. The Romans at first had no other dress, Gell. vii. 12. It was then strait (arcta) and close; it covered the arms and came down to the feet, Quinctil. Ibid.

The toga was at first worn by women as well as men. But afterwards matrons wore a different robe called STOLA, with a broad border or fringe (limbus) caled INSTITA, Ho. rat. Sat. i. 2. 29. reaching to the feet, Ovid. Art. Am. i. 32. Tibull. i. 7.74. (whence instita is put for matrona, Ovid. Art. Am. ii. 600.) and also, as some say, when they went abroad, a loose outer robe thrown over the stola like a surtout, a mantle, or cloak, called PALLA or Peplus, Hor. ib. 99. But the old scholiast on Horace makes palla here the same with instita, and calls it Peripodium and Tunica pallium. Some think, that this fringe constituted the only distinction between the stola and toga. It is certain, however, that the outer robe of a woman was called PALLA, Virg. Æn. i. 648. xi. 576. (quod palam et foris gerebatur, Varr. de Lat. ling. iv. 30.)

Courtezans, and women condemned for adultery, were not permitted to wear the stola; hence called TOGATE, Horat. Sat. i. 2. 82. Juven. ii. 70. Martial. ii. 39. vi. 64. x. 52. Cic.

Phil. ii. 18. and the modesty of matrons is called Stolatus pudor, Mart. i. 36. 8.

There was a fine robe of a circular form worn by women, called CYCLAS, -ădis, Juvenal. vi. 258. Suet. Cal. 52.

None but Roman citizens were permitted to wear the toga; and punished persons were prohibited the use of it, Plin. Epist. iv. 11. Hence toga is put for the dignity of a Roman, Horat. Od. iii. 5. 10.

The colour of the toga was white, and on festivals they usually had one newly cleaned, Ovid. Trist. v. 5. 7. hence they were said Festos ALBATI celebrare, Horat. Sat. ii. 2. 61.

Candidates for offices wore a toga whitened by the fuller, TOGA CANDIDA. See p. 85.

The toga in mourning was of a black or dark colour, TOGA PULLA vel atra; hence those in mourning were called PULLATI, Suet. Aug. 44. Juvenal. iii. 213. or ATRATI, Cic. Vat. But those were also called Pullati, who wore a greatcoat (lacerna) instead of the toga, Suet. Aug. 40. or a mean ragged dress, Plin. Epist. vii. 17. as the vulgar or poor people, (pullatus circulus, vel turba pullata), Quinctil, ii. 12. vi. 4.

12.

The mourning robe of women was called RICINIUM, vel -NUS, vel RICA, (quod post tergum rejiceretur), which covered the head and shoulders, Cie. legg. ii. 23. or MAVORTES, -IS, vel -TA, Serv. in Virg. Æn. i. 268. Isid. xix. 25. They seem to have had several of these above one another, that they might throw them into the funeral piles of their husbands and friends. The Twelve Tables restricted the number to three, Cic. ibid.

The Romans seldom or never appeared at a feast in mourning, Cic. Vat. 12. nor at the public spectacles, Mart. iv. 2. nor at festivals and sacrifices, Ovid. Fast. i. 79.Horat. ii. 2. 60. Pers. ii. 40.

At entertainments the more wealthy Romans laid aside the toga, and put on a particular robe called SYNTHESIS, Martial. v. 8o. ii. 46. iv. 66. which they wore all the time of the Saturnalia, because then they were continually feasting, Martial, xiv. 1. 141. Senec. Epist. 18. Nero wore it (synthesina, sc. vestis) in common, Suet. 51.

Magistrates and certain priests wore a toga bordered with purple, (limbo purpureo circumdata), hence called TOGA PRÆTEXTA; as the superior magistrates. Cic. Red, in Sen. 5. Liv. xxxiv. 7. Juvenal. x. 99. the Pontifices, the Augurs, Cic. Sext. 69. the DECEMVIRI sacris faciundus, Liv. xxvii. 39.

&c.

&c. and even private persons when they exhibited games, Cic. Pis. 4.

Generals when they triumphed wore an embroidered toga, called PICTA vel PALMATA, Martial. vii. 2. 7.

7.

Young men, till they were seventeen years young women, till they were married, also wore a gown borof age, and dered with purple, TOGA PRÆTEXTA, Liv. xxxiv. Cic. Verr. i. 44. Cat. ii. 2. Propert. iv. 12. 33. whence they were called PRÆTEXTATI, Liv. xxii. 57. Cic. Muren. 5. Suet. Aug. 44. 94. Hence amicitia prætexta, i. e. a teneris annis, formed in youth, Martial. x. 20. But verba prætextata is put for obscoena, Suet. Vesp. 22. (quòd nubentibus, depositis prætextis, a multitudine puerorum obscana clamarentur, FESTUS), Gell. ix. 10. Macrob. Sat. ii. 1. and mores prætextati, for impudic vel corrupti, Juvenal. ii. 170.

Under the emperors the toga was in a great measure disused, unless by clients when they waited (officium faciebant) on their patrons, Suet. Aug. 60. Martial. i. 109. ii. 95. x. 74. 3. Scoliast. in Juvenal. x. 45. and orators; hence called Togati, enrobed, Senec. de constant. 9. Tacit. Annal. xi. 7.

Boys likewise wore an hollow golden ball or boss (AUREA BULLA), which hung from the neck on the breast; as some think in the shape of a heart, to prompt them to wisdom; according to others, round, with the figure of a heart engraved on it, Cic. Verr. i. 58, et Ascon. in loc. Liv. xxvi. 6. Plaut. Rud. iv. 4. 127. Macrob. Sat. i. 6. The sons of freed men and poorer citizens used only a leathern boss, (bulla scortea, vel signum de paupere loro), Juvenal. v. 165. Plin. xxxiii. 1. Bosses were also used as an ornament for belts or girdles, Virg. Æn. xii. 942.

Young men usually when they had completed the seventeenth year of their age, laid aside (ponebant vel deponebant) the toga pratexta, and put on (sumebant vel induebant) the manly gown, (TOGA VIRILIS), called Toga PURA, Cic. Att. v. 20. ix. 19. because it was purely white; and LIBERA, Ovid. Trist, iv. 10. 28. Fast. iii. 777. because they were then freed from the restraint of masters, and allowed greater liberty, Pers. v. 30.

The ceremony of changing the toga was performed (toga mutabatur, Hor. Od. i. 36. 9.)with great solemnity before the images of the Lares, Propert. iv. 132. to whom the bulla was consecrated, (laribus donata pependit) Pers. ibid. sometimes in the Capitol, Val. Max. v. 4. 4. or they immediately

went

went thither, or to some temple to pay their devotions to the gods, Suet. Claud. 2.

The usual time of the year for assuming the toga virilis was at the feasts of Bacchus in March, (Liberalibus, xii. Kal. Apr. Cic. Att. vi. 1.) Ovid. Fast. iii. 771.

Then the young man was conducted by his father or princi pal relation to the Forum, accompanied by his friends, Cic. Att. ix. 22. Aug. 26. Suet. Ner. 7. Tib. 54. (whose attendance was called OFFICIUM SOLENNE TOGE VIRILIS, Suet. Claud. 2. Plin. Epist. i. 9.) and there recommended to some eminent orator, whom he should study to imitate, Cic. Am. 1. Tacit. Orat. 34. whence he was said Forum attingere vel in forum venire, when he began to attend to public business, forensia stipendia auspicabatur), Senec. Controv. v. 6. Cic. Fam. v. 8. xiii. 10. xv. 16. This was called Dies togæ virilis, Suet. Aug. 66. Cal. 15. Claud. 2. or Dies tirocinii, Suet. Tib. 54. and the conducting of one to the forum, TYRCOCINIUM, Id. Aug. 26. Cal. 13. the young men were called TIRONES, young or raw soldiers, because then they first began to serve in the army, Cic. Phil. xi. 15. Fam. vii. 3. Suet. Ner. 7. Liv. xl. 35. Hence TIRO is put for a learner or novice, Cic. Orat. i. 50. Ponere tirocinium, to lay aside the character of a learner, and give a proof of one's parts, to be past his noviciate, Liv. xlv. 37.

When all the formalities of this day were finished, the friends and dependants of the family were invited to a feast, and small presents distributed among them, called SPORTULÆ, Plin. Ep. x. 117, 118. The emperors on that occasion used to give a largess to the people, (CONGIARIUM, so caled from congius, a measure of liquids), Suet. Tib. 54. Tacit. Annal. iii. 29.

Servius appointed, that those who assumed the toga virilis should send a certain coin to the temple of Youth, Dionys.iv. 15. Parents and guardians permitted young men to assume (dabant) the toga virilis, sooner or later than the age of seventeen, as they judged proper, Cic. Att. vi. 1. Suet. Aug. 8. Cal. 10. Cl. 43. Ner. 7. under the emperors, when they had completed the fourteenth year, Tacit. Ann.xii. 41. xiii. 15. Before this they were considered as part of the family, (pars domus), afterwards of the state, (reipublica), Tacit. de Mor. Germ. 13.

Young men of rank, after putting on the toga virilis, commonly lived in a separate house from their parents, Suet. Tib. 15. Domit. 2. It was, however, customary for them, as a mark of modesty, during the first whole year, to keep (cohibere) their

right arm within the toga, Cic. Cal. 5. and in their exercises in the Campus Martius never to expose themselves quite naked, as men come to maturity sometimes did, Ibid.

The ancient Romans had no other clothing but the toga, Gell. vii. 12. In imitation of whom, Cato used often to go dressed in this manner, and sometimes even to sit on the tribunal, when prætor, (campestri sub toga cinctus), Ascon. in. Cic. Val. Max. iii. 6. 7. Hence Exigua toga Catonis, Hor. Ep. i. 19. 13. hirta, Lucan. ii. 386. because it was strait (arcta) and coarse, (crassa vel pinguis), Horat. Sat. i. 3. 15. Juvenal. ix. 28. Martial. iv. 19. Nor did candidates for offices wear any thing but the toga. See p. 85.

The Romans afterwards wore below the toga a white woollen vest called TUNICA, which came down a little below the knees before, and to the middle of the legs behind, Quinctil. xi. 3. at first without sleeves. Tunics with sleeves, (CHIRODOTÆ vel tunica manicata), or reaching to the ancles, (talares) were reckoned effeminate, Cic. Cat. ii. 10. Virg. Æn. ix. 616. Gell. vii. 12. But under the emperors these came to be used with fringes at the hands, (ad manus fimbriata), from the example of Cæsar, Suet. Jul. 45. longer or shorter according to fancy, Horat. Sat. i. 2. 25. Prop. iv. 2. 28. Those who wore them were said to be MANULEATI, Suet. Cal. 52.

The tunie was fastened by a girdle or belt (CINGULUM, cinctus, -ûs, ZONA vel Balteus) about the waist to keep it tight, which also served as a purse (pro marsupio vel crumentâ), in which they kept their money, Gell. xv. 2. Plaut. Merc. v. 2. 84. Suet. Vit. 16. Horat. Ep. ii. 2. 40. hence incinctus tunicam mercator, Ovid. Fast. v. 675. The purse commonly hung from the neck, Plaut. Truc. iii. 2. 7. and was said decollâsse, when it was taken off; hence decollare, to deceive, Id. Cap. iii. 1. 37.

It was also thought effeminate to appear abroad with the tunic slackly or carelessly girded: Hence the saying of Sylla concerning Cæsar to the Optimates, who interceded for his life, UT MALE PRÆCINCTUM PUERUM CAVERENT, Suet. Jul. 46. Dio, 43. 43. For this also Mæcenas was blamed, Senec. Ep. 14. Hence cinctus,præcinctus and succinctus, are put for industrius, expeditus vel gnavus, diligent, active, clever, Horat. Sat. i. 5. 6. ii. 6. 107. because they usedt gird the tunic when at work, Id. Sat. ii. 8. 10. Ovid. Met. vi. 59. and Discinctus for iners, mollis, ignavus; thus, Discinctus nepos, a dissolute spendthrift, Hor. Epod. i. 34. So Pers. iii. 31. Discincti Afri, Virg. Æn. viii. 724. effeminate, or simply ungirt; for the Africans did not use a girdle, Sil. iii. 236. Plaut. Pan. v. 2. 48.

The