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Mr. Speechly says it is a plentiful bearer, and may be justly esteemed a valuable sort.
61. WHITE SWEETWATER. Langley, p. 113. t. 50. Speechly, No. 16.
Parel Druyf, of the Dutch Gardens.
Berries large, round, of a white colour, and when highly ripened, especially when exposed to the sun, they are shaded with a light russet. They grow close on the bunches, which are of a middle size. Juice very saccharine and luscious. Wood short-jointed.
On a south wall, it ripens well in dry warm seasons; but if the weather prove unfavourable when the vine is in blossom, the bunches become imperfectly formed, and contain numerous very small berries.
The White Sweetwater ripened at Twickenham, in 1727, on a south wall, Aug. 10. O.S., or Aug. 21. N. S. (Langley.)
The Dutch gardeners call it Parel Druyf, and force it in large quantities for market.
There are several names of White Sweetwater to be found in different nurserymen's catalogues, but most of them have arisen from the whim or caprice of their cul tivators.
SECT. IV. - Striped-Fruited.
Speechly, No. 4.
Berries middle-sized, of a roundish figure. Skin thin, of various colours: some are black, some white; but mostly they are striped with black and white in distinct lines: occasionally, one bunch will be black, one white, and another half black and half white. Flesh juicy, and of an exquisite flavour. The leaves in the autumn are
curiously striped with red, green, and yellow, somewhat similar to the Aleppo Cos Lettuce.
A plentiful bearer, requiring a vinery or a hot-house.
A Selection of Grapes for a small Garden in the Southern and Midland Counties of England.
Cambridge Botanic Garden 23
FOR THE OPEN WALL.
Muscat of Alexandria
FOR A VINERY.
Muscat of Alexandria
Red Muscat of Alexandria
Northern Counties of England, and Southern of Scotland.
6 Red Hamburgh
4 White Frontignan
12 White Muscadine
18 White Sweetwater
FOR THE STOVE.
- 59 White Frontignan
8 Red Muscat of Alexandria
Vines are propagated by laying them down in pots; by cuttings; and by buds, or single eyes. The first method is the most expeditious, and the one most generally adopted in the nurseries: and where the shoots can be planted out against a south wall, in order to the better ripening of the wood, especially of those sorts which are tender, it is preferable to the others because it furnishes fine strong plants at the end of the first year. There are several ways of laying down the vine: the one I have practised, and which has always produced as good plants as I could desire, is to commence the operation as soon as the leaves have fallen off the vines. For the strong growing sorts, pots of Cast sixteen may be used; and for the weaker growers those of twenty-four. Having prepared some good mould, cover the hole at the bottom with a large piece of potsherd, and fill it three parts full sink it about two inches below the surface of the soil, at two or three feet distance from the stole,
according to the strength and length of the layer. Previously to its being laid down, take the shoot firmly in one or both hands, near the bottom; and give it a twist, half or three-quarters round, till you find it give way by splitting longitudinally along the pith. This will not pass further upwards than the lower hand, and it is not intended it should extend more than a foot or eighteen inches from the stole; the purpose of which is, to cause the layer to bend nearly flat at the neck next the plant, and to check the too great influx of sap from the stole to the layer when it begins to grow. The shoot must now be bent carefully, and placed in the pot, so that two or three joints remain within it, keeping the top as nearly perpendicular as you can; cover it up with the prepared mould, and press it firmly, to keep the layer from springing out of the pot. It must now be shortened, leaving two eyes only above the surface, and covered up with the mould round the stole to the depth of the two inches mentioned before: in like manner proceed till all the layers are put down.
In the spring, when they have grown nine or twelve inches, they should be staked, tying the two shoots of each layer to the stake, cutting off all the other shoots which are produced upon the bender between the stole and the pot. When the shoots have attained the height of two or three feet, the uppermost shoot must be cut off, leaving the lower one only, training it up from time to time till it reaches the top of the stake, which need not be more than six feet at the most, when it must be stopped all the tendrils, as they are produced, should be cut off close; and when lateral shoots are produced, they must be shortened, leaving only one eye to each. When the main shoot has been shortened some time, it will cause two or three of the uppermost eyes to push out into shoots: these must be shortened to two eyes each, which, from the vigour of the plant, will, probably,
push these lateral eyes into shoots like the former; but this will be the means of preserving all the lower eyes, which would otherwise have been converted into branches. When the plants have nearly finished their summer's growth, the middle or towards the end of September, all the laterals which had before been shortened only, should be cut off close to the stem, which will not only give strength to the buds, but admit the sun so as to ripen the wood the more perfectly. When the growth is complete, those eyes which had been converted into branches at the extremity, being useless, may now be dispensed with, and the stem may be headed down to the first sound bud, and the plant will be complete.
In raising vines from cuttings, those which are furnished with two eyes each will be sufficiently long for the purpose; the lower part should be transversely cut close to the bud. They should be planted singly in small pots, filled with good mould, leaving the upper eye rather below the surface than above it. The pots should be placed either in the stove or in a hotbed, early in February, allowing the plants room as they advance in height, and shifting them into larger-sized pots when they have filled the first with roots. As the spring advances they may be removed into the stove, and from thence to the greenhouse, keeping them neatly tied up to stakes, and allowing them plenty of air to prevent their being drawn up weak. Vines raised from single eyes require the same management as those from cuttings, beginning only with a smaller-sized pot, and removing them into others as they acquire strength and require room. Those raised from cuttings, as well as these, should be kept under glass throughout the summer. A judicious application of liquid manure, during the summer months, would considerably promote the growth of both.