mercury, wherein is much quicksilver, which is of so subtle and malignant a nature, as it will fall from the head to the lungs, and cause consumptions, and is the cause of swelling about the neck and throat. The next is, that it is so far from adorning, that it disfigures for it will rot the teeth, dim the eyes, and take away both the life and youth of a face, which is the greatest beauty. Thirdly, and lastly the sluttishness of it, and especially in the preparatives, as masks of sear-clothes, which are not only horrid to look upon, in that they seem as dead bodies embowelled or embalmed, but the stink is offensive. Then the pomatum and pultis, which are very uneasy to lie in, wet and greasy, and very unsavoury; for all the while they have it on it presents to the nose a chandler's shop, or a greasy dripping-pan, so as all the time they fry, as it were, in grease; neither will their perfumes mend it, or their oils: and though I cannot say they live in purgatory, because they shun all hot places, for they cannot have the comfortable heat of the fire, and shun the natural heat of the sun, as they must live always as if they were at the North Pole, for fear the heat should melt away their oil, and oily drops can be no grace to their face. Dry painting shrivels up the skin so, as it imprints age in their face, in filling it full of wrinkles; wherefore paintings are both dangerous, ill-favoured, and sluttish, besides the troublesome pains. But for other adornments in women, they are to be commended, as curling, powdering, pouncing, clothing, and all the varieties of accoutrement." One of the most interesting works of the duchess's composition is a large folio volume of Sociable Letters, for so they are styled, 211 in number. The odd eleven are for individuals with names, the 200 to some madam, evidently an admirer of the duchess and her writings. There is no such thing as a date throughout the work, and names are distinguished by initials, which, provokingly enough, are of frequent occurrence. The letters, however, seem to have been written wholly abroad, and the collection was printed at London in 1664. There is, of course, a complimentary copy of verses by the duke, and a letter of gratitude and extravagant adulation from the duchess, with a preface to all professors of learning and art, and another to the Many. "It may be said to me," she writes to her lord, as one said to a lady, Work, ་་ lady, work,-let writing books alone, for surely wiser women ne'er writ one;' but your lordship here bid me to work, nor leave writing, except when you would persuade me to spare so much time from my study as to take the air for my health; the truth is, my lord, I cannot work, I mean such work as ladies use to pass their time withal: but I am not a dunce in all employments, for I understand the keeping of sheep, and ordering of a grange, indifferently well, although I do not busy myself much with it, by reason my scrib. bling takes away most part of my time." "As for the present book of letters," she writes, "I know not, as yet, what aspersion they will lay upon it, but I fear they'll say, they are not written in a mode style, that is, in a complimenting and romantical way, with high words and mystical expressions, as most of our modern letter-writers use to do." The twenty-first letter contains a sad character of her sex. "I observe," she says, "that cards is one of the chief pastimes of our sex, and their greatest delight; for few or none of our sex loves or delights in poetry, unless a copy of verses made in their praise, wherein, for the most part, is more flattery than wit." . . . "Neither doth our sex take much pleasure in harmonious music, only in violins to tread a measure; the truth is, the chief study of our sex is romances, wherein reading, they fall in love with the feigned heroes and carpet-knights, with whom their thoughts secretly commit adultery, and in their conversation and manner, or forms or phrases of speech, they imitate the romancy-ladies." The forty-seventh letter is a long account of the pains that ladies take, and the cost they go to, in getting, making, and buying fine and costly child- bed linen, swaddling-clothes, mantles, and the like, their banquets of sweetmeats, cakes, wafers, biscuits, jellies, and such strong drinks as hip pocras and burnt wine, with hot spices, mulled sack, strong and highcoloured ale, well spiced and stuffed with toasts of cakes. This should be read with Letter CIII., where there is an account of a gossip-meeting. Some of her descriptions are very fady to whom black patches had he graphic, such as that of the sanctified pendants and necklaces, the tempta come abominable, and fans, ribands, tions of Satan, and laced shoes and galoshoes, as so many steps to pride. (Lett. LI.) "You were pleased, in your last letter," she writes (No. CXLVI.), "to request me to send you my opinion of Virgil and Ovid, as which I thought was the better poet. Truly, madam, my reason, skill, or understanding in poetry and poets is not sufficient to give a judgment of two such famous poets, for though I am a poetess, yet I am but a poetastress, or a petty poetess; but, howsoever, I am a legitimate poetical child of Nature, and though my poems, which are the body of the poetical soul, are not so beautiful and pleasing as the rest of her poetical childrens' bodies are, yet I am, nevertheless, her child, although but a brownet." Here is a very beautiful picture of the qualities required of a balladsinger : "The vulgar and plainer a voice is, the better it is for an old ballad; for a sweet voice with quavers, and trilloes, and the like, would be as improper for an old ballad, as golden laces on a thrown suit of cloth, diamond buckles on clouted or cobbled shoes, or a feather on a monk's hood; neither should old ballads be sung so much in a tune as in a tone, which tone is betwixt speaking and singing, for the sound is more than plain speaking and less than clear singing, and the rumming or humming of a wheel should be the music to that tone, for the humming is the noise the wheel makes in the turning round, which is not like the music of the spheres; and ballads are only proper to be sung by spinsters, and that only in cold winter nights, when a company of good housewives are drawing a thread of flax."-Lett. CCII. Her admiration of Davenant's Gondibert is made the subject of a letter, (No. CXXVII.), where she speaks with great discrimination when finding fault with the over-precision of his language and the compact closeness of his expressions, " for the language like so curious and finely engraven a seal as one cannot readily see the figure engraven thereon without a magnifying glass." they were made up only with clowns, Iler love for the writings of Shakspeare breaks out in two or three places, nor has it been hitherto noticed that the duchess was among the first who dared to publish their admi ration: "I wonder," she writes, "how that person you mention in your letter could either have the conscience or confidence to dispraise Shakspeare's plays, as to say All this is excellent, but when the duchess tells us, some hundred pages on (p. 338), that her husband is as far beyond Shakspeare for comical humour, as Shakspeare is beyond an ordinary poet in that way, we love and respect the wife, but laugh outright at the silly weakness of the woman. Here we stop, and in the belief, be it known, that our readers are as much in love with Margaret Lucas as Oliver Yorke is, or was old William Cavendish himself. "Is this a lady's closet? 't cannot be, * On the Duchess of Newcastle's Closet.-FLECKNOE's Epigrams. MILLINERS' APPRENTICES. "Etsi nullum memorabile nomen THE warmest advocate for the advan- public mind, and the feelings of society have been harrowed by the piteous description of the trials they are exposed to in their round of daily toil, there has been discovered to exist a class of persons whose sufferings far exceed those of the poor mechanic or the factory-girl. I allude to the young women employed by the milliners and dress-makers to assist in their business, either as apprentices or day-workers, in large towns, more particularly in the metropolis. The object of the present article is, first, to enumerate some of those evils, physical and moral, which arise from the tyranny and severe tasking so generally practised in this department of trade; and, 2dly, to examine briefly if any remedies, legislative or otherwise, can be applied to a system of over-working so manifestly requiring alteration and improvement. If we enter the work-room of some dress-maker in tolerable business, we shall see a number of girls, many of them pale and emaciated, crowded together, and under the superintendence of a forewoman, whose office it is to keep order and urge on the appointed task. Of these some are "day"apprentices," others are workers," the remainder are what are termed "improvers." The apprentices are placed with the proprietress of the establishment for a certain period, generally for about two or three years, sometimes five. They are apprenticed usually about the age of fourteen, and reside entirely on the premises. The premium, of course, varies according to the situation and notoriety of the house. It is sometimes as high as sixty guineas. The day-workers either live at home or in their own lodg ings; they come to the dress-maker's from nine in the morning till nine at night, and receive from 1s. to 18. 6d. per day. If required to work extra hours, they are paid accordingly. They bring their own dinners with them, but are found in tea and sugar. The "improvers" are girls from seventeen to twenty years of age, who come up from the country, and remain usually six months with their employer, during which period they make themselves generally useful; their time is entirely at the disposal of the dress-maker; they reside with her, but receive no wages and pay no premium. During the London season, the fatigue they undergo is excessive. At a period of life when adequate rest, and even some relaxation, are absolutely necessary to the bodily health, they are confined, with scarcely any intermission for their meals, which they are frequently obliged to leave halffinished to return to their work, often till three or four o'clock in the morning, in a heated and unwholesome atmosphere. The whole frame exhausted, and the nervous system frequently too much unstrung for the enjoyment of the little sleep allowed them, they are expected to be early again at the work-table, and return with spatched in haste to her native home, Purpureus veluti cum flos succisus aratro Languescit moriens, lassove papavera Demisere caput, pluvià cum forte gra- This is not a highly coloured picture, sketched by fancy, but the history of many a poor girl, the words of truth and soberness. And if it be possible to prevent such tales from being so common, if we can devise any scheme for rescuing one victim from being immolated on the shrine of Vanity and Fashion, will not every Englishman and every Englishwoman-for much is in her power-join with us in the sacred work? It appears that the diseases to which the young dress-maker is most subject are complaints of the liver and stomach. The constant waste which, to constitute vigorous health, must be carried on by means of the secretions, being interrupted by want of air and exercise, the circulation becomes languid and sluggish, the blood is loaded with impure humours, and congestion of the abdominal viscera necessarily ensues. apparent cheerfulness to the toil which is silently sapping the secret springs of life. No wonder that many fall victims to untimely discase, or, escaping the immediate bad consequences, in after life become the mothers of an unhealthy and miserable offspring. It is lamentable to see the change that sometimes comes over the country girl shortly after her admission as an apprentice. Arriving, perhaps, from her happy village home, where she has been the pride of honest and industrious parents, her cheeks redolent of rosy health, her step elastic, her spirits light and buoyant, at first the novelty and excitement, and constant variety of the busy town amuse her; she delights in the companionship of girls of her own age, and strives to the utmost of her power to win the approbation and confidence of her employer. By degrees her pallid cheek and attenuated form shew that the loss of fresh air, and the absence into the bud of youth. Her appetite of accustomed exercise, are eating leaves her: she sighs occasionally during winter, when the windows over her work, but utters no complaint. Then comes the short hacking cough, the supernaturally brilliant eye, the hectic spot. She is de Not only are the sedentary habits of young dress-makers, so long continued, prejudicial to the full developement of the body, but the stooping position which they are obliged to adopt, with the head and neck bent forwards, are productive of serious mischief. Accordingly, spinal diseases, and the contortion commonly called the wry-neck, which arises from the sterno-mastoid muscle growing out of its natural place, are often the consequences of this position. It is not uncommon also to see disorders of the eyes, arising from painful and difficult work done by candle-light, sometimes by gas-light. It is at this time of the day that the young prisoners suffer most from confinement. After the atmosphere of the work-room has been cor rupted by the numbers employed in it during the morning, perhaps have not been opened, the lighting of it up at night generates a quantity of carbonic acid, which it is extremely pernicious to breathe. If we suppose, what is not, perhaps, often the case, that gas is employed in the work-room, the noxious effects are still greater. To shew the importance of proper ventilation, we will quote a passage on the subject from an article by Mr. Squire, in a late number of the Pharmaceutical Journal: "The usual argand gas-burner consumes about five cubic feet of gas per hour, producing rather more than five cubic feet of carbonic acid, and nearly half a pint of water. Shops using thirty of these lights, therefore, in an evening of four hours, produce upwards of nine gallons of water, holding in solution the noxious products of the gas. An argand lamp, burning in a room twelve feet high and twelve feet square, containing 1728 cubic inches of air, with closed doors and windows, produces sufficient carbonic acid in rather more than three hours to exceed more than one per cent, which is considered unfit for respiration, and when it amounts to ten per cent it is fatal to life. A man makes on an average twenty respirations in a minute, and at each respiration inhales sixteen cubic inches of air. Of these 320 cubic inches inhaled, thirty-two cubic inches of oxygen are consumed, and twenty-five cubic inches of carbonic acid produced." With regard to exercise, the apprentices and day-workers are better off than the improvers. The apprentices are often sent out on what is termed to "match," that is, to fetch from large houses of business the different articles which ladies have made choice of to be made up. Sometimes they are out on these errands the whole morning; but, with the exception of what they get on Sundays, this is the only exercise they are allowed to take. The day-workers coming early in the morning, and returning home at night, have some time of the day at least to themselves; but there is this serious disadvantage to which they are exposed, namely, that they are turned loose upon the town at a time of the day when the public streets are least respectable, and living as they often do alone, or one or two together, in lodgings, they are liable to form improper connexions, and become lax in their moral habits. The poor improvers seldom get out at all, and they are usually the greatest sufferers. The time they remain with the milliner is indeed short, but it is often quite sufficient to undermine their constitutions, and sow the seeds of disorders which last for life. Sunday, that day of rest so grateful to the whole creation, cannot be said to be one to the young dressmaker. Much moral evil necessarily ensues from the way she is treated on a Sunday. Having worked perhaps on the evening before till long past midnight, she is expected not to remain at home on the Sabbath. Her employer is quite regardless whether she frequents a place of divine worship or not, her presence is disagree. able, and the work-room shut up. Perhaps a stranger in the metropolis, she has no relations or friends with whom to spend her hours of recreation, and no wonder that she often spends her time at such places of amusement as are open on the Sabbath, or in the parks, with some acquaintance or admirer she accidentally picks up. This is an evil which should be remedied. The mistress should make their home comfortable and agreeable to the girls on the Sabbath; her table should be as open to them on that as on any other day in the week; she should place in their way suitable books, and they should not be driven, fatigued in body and mind as they must be, to seek amusement and relaxation abroad. In case of temporary illness and indisposition, the young dress-maker's position is very forlorn and distressing. She cannot absent herself from the work-room without incurring the displeasure of the lady of the house, and if she fancies any little delicacy, such as broth or gruel, she can only obtain it by purchasing it at her own expense, and giving a perquisite to the cook to prepare it for her. If her indisposition continues, she must either go to her friends or to the hospital. With this alternative before her, she often struggles on against sickness, rather than put her friends to the additional burthen of keeping her, after the payment of a premium for her instruction, the amount of which perhaps they have raised with great difficulty and self-denial. To the expenses of her washing and her |