1 Resolute. Pioneer. Assistance. Intrepid. ARCTIC SQUADRON, 1852. North Star. CHAPTER I. Leave the Nore.- Proceed through North Sea.- Cross the Letter of Sir E. Belcher.-Complete Arrangements for Towing.-Pass Cape Wrath.-Fishing Boats off the Butt of Lewis.- Last Letters written.- Commencement of Gale.Gale in the North Atlantic.-A few Remarks thereon.-"Basilisk" and "Desperate" part Company.-The sunken Land of Bus.- Remarks on the Current.- Off Cape Farewell.Danger of "Washing or Straggling Pieces."- Loss of the "Shannon," of Hull.-Loss of the " Shannon," continued. WEDNESDAY, April 21st, 1852, at 5 A.M. the and proceeded down the River; the three first in tow of the "Monkey," "African," and "Lightning;" the tenders were under steam. A bright morning, an unclouded sky, a keen frost, and an easterly wind reminded many of us of those glorious daysprings which are only to be met with in Melville Bay. The Thames, as usual, was studded with vessels of every size and nation. On passing, their crews mechanically ceased their ordinary occupations, to gaze on us with an interest, expressive of the feelings which the peculiar nature of the service, on which we were about to be employed, would naturally suggest to the reflective mind. As some of the vessels were in want of a few articles from the Dockyard to complete their equipment, we anchored at the Nore, where we found the "Basilisk" and "Desperate (steamers) awaiting our arrival for the purpose of towing the squadron through the North Sea. At 3.20 P.M. the squadron weighed and proceeded in the same order as before, with the "Basilisk" and "Desperate" in company,-and anchored at 10 P.M. in the East Swin to await the change of tide. Thursday, 22nd, at 5 A. M., wind moderate from S.E., weighed and proceeded in tow of the "Light PROCEED THROUGH NORTH SEA. 5 ning,"-squadron in company. During the forenoon made all plain sail, which caused the old vessel to heel over considerably in consequence of having a heavy deck load. At noon the "Lightning" cast off, and was succeeded by "Desperate," whose great power gave an increase to our former speed. In the course of the afternoon the wind freshened considerably, and at 5 P.M. we followed the motions of the "Assistance," and cast off from "Desperate." Shortening to moderate sail, we continued on our course to the northward. Friday, 23rd. During the night the wind increased to a strong breeze from S. E. with a cross sea, which rendered the vessel very uncomfortable the whole day. Sunday, 25th. On going on deck this morning I found we were becalmed and about to be taken in tow by the "Desperate," by whose aid we were soon ploughing our way through the mirror-like sea, at the rate of eight miles an hour. The morning was beautifully fine, with a perfectly cloudless sky. Noss Head with its picturesque lighthouse was distinctly visible, as well as the bold promontory near which stands John o' Groat's house, whilst blue in the distance we 6 CROSS THE PENTLAND FIRTH. could just distinguish the outline of the high land of Hoy. Such a day was enjoyed by all on board, but I doubt if gazing on the pretty cottages, snugly ensconced in the recesses of deep bays, tended to reconcile us to the thoughts of leaving England, dear England! for a period which we all knew must be for years, and might be for ever! Rounding Duncansby Head, the N.E. extremity of Great Britain, we encountered the tide of the Pentland Firth, which, during the springs runs at the rate of ten miles an hour. By the aid of steam we crossed the Firth in gallant style, and wended our way through circuitous, but noble channels, catching an occasional glimpse of deep bays and fiords, as well as a distant view of Kirkwall with its ancient cathedral, which was scanned with considerable interest by those amongst us who had perused Scott's Pirate. At 1.30 P.M. we anchored off the town of Stromness, but as the sabbath is strictly observed, only a few people came on board. In the course of the evening all the vessels of the squadron arrived, filling the harbour, and imparting an air of gaiety to the town, which by the aid of telescopes appeared crowded with people of both sexes. Tuesday, 27th.-Calm and fine. During the forenoon we were honoured by the presence of several ladies, the clear red and white of whose complexions, combined with the brilliancy of their eyes, created quite a sensation on board. In the evening I accompanied a messmate to the house of Dr. Hamilton, whose wife is a sister of Dr. Rae, the celebrated Arctic traveller. Here we were entertained with the hospitality of a second Magnus Troil, and passed a delightful evening, the reminiscences of which will ever be of the most pleasing description. Stromness is built on the side of a hill facing to the eastward, and contains, according to the last census in 1851, about 2000 inhabitants. Kirkwall, the capital of the Orkneys, has a population of 3300 souls. The harbour of Stromness is capable of affording shelter to a large fleet, and its natural formation renders it a place of perfect safety in the heaviest gale. A patent slip, on which were three vessels during our visit, affords great facilities to ships in want of repair. Wednesday, 28th. The wind during the night had increased to a strong breeze, with thick misty weather; this with the sickly appearance of the moon around, which we observed a well defined |