CHAP. III.

Land to obtain Coal.- Find the Waygat Channel blocked.— Bergs very numerous. Sight Sanderson's Hope.— Arrival at Uppernavik. Encounter a Gale. Termination of the Gale.-Leave Uppernavik. — Sight of the Sugar-Loaf. — Dense Fogs.-Amusement on the Ice.- Sad Fate of two Dogs. Sustain a heavy Nip.-The Rudder crushed by Ice.

Cut into Dock.- The Wreck of the "Regalia."— The Pleasures of Wrecking.-Speak the "St. Andrew" of Aberdeen. Join a Fleet of Whalers.- A few Words on Dockcutting-Benefit derived by using Powder.

-

THURSDAY, 10th.-Wind fresh from easterly, with gloomy weather. At 7 A.M. the signal was made to weigh;" at 8 tripped our anchor and ran out of harbour, and hove-to outside for "Assistance." About 10" Assistance" and "North Star" joined company, and we commenced working along the coast to the eastward under all plain sail, Sir Edward's intention being to go through the Waygat Channel, a route with which we were all pleased.

LAND TO OBTAIN COAL.

39

Friday, 11th. The wind, which had been moderate all night, became light during the day, and eventually calm.

Whilst at Lievely we were informed that coal was to be obtained on the beach, about twenty miles to the eastward of the settlement; about 8 P. M. being abreast of the place indicated, boats were despatched from each ship, well provided with bags intended to be filled with coal, but either we were at fault, or the informant had named the wrong locality, for not a single lump did we obtain. The "Pioneer" was however more fortunate, for though she did not succeed in discovering coal, she filled her boat with drift-wood, a good substitute. The sportsmen taking their guns, and passage in the boats, succeeded in bagging a brace of ptarmigan, a few tern, a brace of snipe, and a little redpole.

Saturday, 12th.-Wind fresh from N. W., working to windward through the Waygat Channel; numerous strangely shaped bergs in sight; at noon entered brash ice, which became more compact the further we advanced to the northward. At 1 P.M. we observed the "Assistance "-then several miles to windward of our position-bear up and make the general recall. Awaiting her closing we bore up

40

FIND WAYGAT CHANNEL BLOCKED.

in company, and at four found ourselves once more becalmed.

Probably in no part of the world does nature display more grandeur in her works than on the coast of Greenland. True, no towering pines crown the hill, nor are the valleys filled with verdure, but here, amidst a desolation, grand in the extreme, nature may be truly said to reign triumphant.

Precipitous cliffs, themselves mountains, rise out of an unfathomable sea, and are surmounted by the snow of ages, never yet trodden by the foot of Deep chasms filled with accumulated snow, form the building-yards from whence are launched into the deep, those floating crystal towers, which are at once the fear and admiration of those who brave the dangers of the Arctic Ocean. Truly those who "go down into the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters, these men see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep."

Light winds, and unpleasant weather prevented our making much progress for several days. At length, on

Wednesday, 16th, we found ourselves abreast of Hare Island (situated about midway between Disco and the main), in the northern entrance of the Waygat Channel.

BERGS VERY NUMEROUS.

41

Here, according to the testimony of our ice quartermasters, coal is to be obtained, but in what quantities I could not ascertain.

From Hare Island extended numerous streams of loose ice to the westward; whilst inshore, and across the entrance of the channel, we observed what appeared to be closely packed ice.

At this time bergs of every size and shape lay strewn around us in all directions, and on attempting to count them, they proved to be innumerable.

Early in the afternoon we passed through a perfect labyrinth of those huge floating islands, and all the ships of the squadron took a barrier of stream ice, that lay in our course, in gallant style. Passing through several streams of loose packed ice, we found ourselves at 8 P.M. once more in open

water.

Thursday, 17th.- Sighted Black Hook, and with a gentle southerly wind, ran to the northward close along Storoe Island, and Dark Head. About 11 P.M. it fell a perfect calm, but we still passed rapidly along the land to the northward, the result of tide,

or current.

Friday, 18th. Wind light from N.E. with thick fog; about 2 P. M. sighted the land near Sanderson's Hope, towards which we stood in company with the squadron.

42

ARRIVAL AT UPPERNAVIK.

Saturday, 19th. - Found ourselves off Uppernavik. It struck me as being providential that none of the vessels grounded on any of the offlying rocks, (many of them just awash,) which abound in such numbers in the immediate vicinity of this settlement.

The

By far the best way in is to keep the high land about Sanderson's Hope close aboard, and pass between it and the first, or southern island. only dangers to be avoided are two flat off-lying rocks a few feet above the water, to the southward of, but near the fairway of the channel recommended. After passing these rocks, the passage to abreast of the town is clear of dangers, although I should recommend, as a matter of precaution, a good look-out to be kept from the mast-head; lead, of course, constantly going.

The rocks, which are sprinkled plentifully enough between the islands, can easily be avoided in fine weather, for nature has buoyed them with bergpieces, which, being aground, serve to show the position of the danger; they cannot therefore be too narrowly watched, and should not be approached too close.

About 7 A. M. made fast to a berg off the town, and half a cable's length from some rocks awash.