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With the curiosity respecting such subjects natural to all travellers, but peculiarly appropriate in an ecclesiastic, our author visits attentively the places of worship wherein he goes, and informs himself respecting the state of his clerical brethren which is certainly far from brilliant, and their estimation among the people, which is, we are sorry to observe, somewhat in proportion to their worldly condition. In the following account of a Sunday, and the most awful solemnity of the Romish church, perhaps we are not at liberty to remark the difference between a Protestant and a Catholic observer-between Mr Eustace and the pastor of Gateacre: For a Sunday at Paris in 1802, and high mass in Buonaparte's principal church, will probably not be allowed to present the real picture of a Catholic Sabbath and Sacrament. Nevertheless, we suspect, that had Mr Eustace been at Paris, his emotions would have clothed the scene with somewhat more imposing colours; and of this we are pretty sure, that the reader will easily recognize, not merely the Protestant, but the sturdy Presbyterian, in some parts of our author's remarks. With these, it is unnecessary to observe, we are prepared to sympathize in an especial manner, in this land of the Solemn League and Covenant.

On Sunday morning the 27th, we went to hear high mass in the church at Notre Dame. On our way to this venerable Gothic edifice, we observed one half of the shops open, and the other half shut. If our observation was correct, it would of course ascertain the opinion of the bourgeois of Paris on the reverence due to the Sabbath. I was amused with a sort of compromise which some shopkeepers seemed to make between religion and avarice, by shutting their windows, and exposing their goods at their doors. On the whole, there was little of the outward and visible signs of Sunday. One distinguishing symptom was wanting,-the ringing of beils. I presume these noisy annunciations of prayers and curses, joy and sorrow, wedding and death,-were all melted into coin during the Revolution. When we arrived at the church, the procession of the host was moving up one of the side aisles. Penetrating the crowd which was assembled in the nave, we proceeded to the choir, and ascended into a gallery, where we had a full view of the whole extent of the church. Our attention was attracted by the procession, preceded by a number of boys, dressed in white vestments, and bearing tapers. These were followed by eight or ten priests, who moved on in slow and solemn state, singing as they walked ;then appeared the distributers of incense, who dispensed it from silver urns, suspended from their waists by a silver chain. The elegance and grace with which they managed these sacred vases, well entitle them to the appellation of clerical Vestrises. In the centre, was the canopy which covered the host. This canopy was surround

ed by ecclesiastics, and followed by pious votaries, who chanted the service as they went along. The chorus which they formed was rendered more deep by the sound of an instrument like a bassoon ;—the voices of the priests were in tune with this instrument ;and the harmony which they produced, had a very fine effect. The procession was flanked by a party of soldiers; who, I presume, attended for the purpose of protecting the ceremony from the insults of those who were dissatisfied with the Catholic religion. At the elevation of the host, the military commanding officer gave the word in a tone of voice, which echoed through the vaulted roof of the church. At this signal, the drums beat; and the swell of the organ mingled with the war-note. The soldiers, on one knee, fixed the but end of their muskets on the pavement; and continued in that attitude till, on the cessation of the sound of drum and organ, the word of command was given; and they rose. After the procession had made the circuit of the inside of the church, the chief priests advanced to the high altar, and performed the mass,-their voices being occasionally assisted by the organ. At various intervals, voluntaries were played upon this instrument, some of which were absolutely jigs. On the whole, our visit to Notre-Dame presented to us a strange mixture of religious solemnity, military state, and levity. In the course of the service, two collections of money occurred; the first for the benefit of the church, the second for the relief of the poor. Of the multitudes assembled to-day in this vast edifice, I do not believe that more than 200 repaired thither for religious purposes;-the rest were composed only of persons, who were attracted by motives of curiosity. p. 5861.

There is nothing more striking in the observations suggested by Mr Shepherd's first visit to Paris, than the disrepute into which republicanism and every thing connected with it had fallen, although it was long before Buonaparte's power was fully established, and he could have exerted his influence in putting down the democracy, upon the ruins of which he built his despotism. At the theatres, every where a good exponent of popular feelings, but in Paris by far the best, he found unlimited applause bestowed on all passages disparaging to popular institutions. There he saw, at the Comedie Française the Cinna of Corneille, which abounds in sentiments of political tendency, and applicable to the circumstances of the day. One solitary plebeian made a few attempts to excite applause of the democratic sentiments; but he was indignantly silenced by the rest of ، the audience. On the contrary, the following lines were received with a thunder of approbation.

Mais quand le peuple est maître on n'agit qu'en tumulte.
La voix de la raison jamais ne se consulte;

Les honneurs sont vendus aux plus ambitieux,

L'autorité livrée aux plus seditieux;

Ces petits souverains qu'il fait pour une année,
Voyant d'un temps si court leur puissance bornée,
Des plus heureux desseins font avorter le fruit
De peur de les laisser à celui qui les suit.

Comme ils ont peu de part au bien dont ils ordonnent,
Dans le champ du public largement ils moissonnent';
Assurés que chacun leur pardonne aisement,

Esperant à son tour un pareil traitement.

Le pire des états c'est l'état populaire.' p. 81-82.

We are sorry to find that a similar experiment on popular feeling, which our author made in the same place this year, was very far from giving a result equally favourable to the existing government. The minority was far from insignificant-notwithstanding Buonaparte's recent downfal-the eclat of a new dynasty, or still more seductive restoration- the return of wished for peace, and the presence of powerful armies. The two parties, on the contrary, seemed to be pretty nearly balanced :-but of this in its proper place. We anticipate it here, in order to show that the theatre does not reflect merely the sentiments favoured by the ruling powers; and that, of consequence, the observation which our author there took in 1802 of the new government's popularity, and the discredit of republicanism, was the more to be relied on. His inference from it, as drawn and committed to paper at the time, may fairly be reckoned a just one, after the events that have confirmed it. The Parisians, he observes, seemed to be ripe for the elevation of an Augustus to the imperial throne. This was written about two years before Buonaparte declared himself Emperor.

We have already spoken of what are commonly termed the Galleries; or the collection of old pictures, marbles, books and medals, so well known to every one, that we should only have dwelt on any thing new and singular in our author's remarks upon them. But there is one institution connected with this subject, of a very pleasing nature, and not at all known in this country, the Musée Nationale des Monumens Français. It owes its origin to the barbarous ravages committed upon the works of art and remains of antiquity in different parts of France during the Revolution. M. Lenoir obtained permission from the Convention to collect their fragments, and restore them as nearly as possible to their primitive state, depositing them in a large convent which was set apart for their reception. By his industry and ingenuity, upwards of five hundred French monuments are there arranged in excellent order and preservation. They are classed according to their respective ages, and thus afford the best history of the progress of sculpture in different stages of

the art. The more ancient stones are properly placed in the gloomy parts of the building; while the splendour of the modern workmanship is advantageously exhibited in the light halls; and the garden contains many tombstones, among others those of Abelard and Eloisa. The windows are enriched with the superb painted glass assembled from a thousand churches, and which could only thus be saved from the destroying fanaticism of the day.

The scientific reader will naturally desire to know the particulars of a sitting of the National Institute; and our author has detailed them with great spirit,-underrating, however, we must remark, the effects even of the mummery which he describes, inasmuch as it depends altogether on its adaptation to the persons concerned, whether it may not afford just as powerful a stimulant to exertion as a graver or more sober method of proceeding.

The hall in which this society assembles, is a noble apartment, the sides of which are ornamented with two beautiful pillars of the Corinthian order: between the columns are marble statues of the celebrated French statesmen and warriors. In the middle of the hall an area is railed off for the accommodation of the members. Between this rail and the wall, are several rows of benches, which, on our entrance, we found so much crowded with spectators, that we experienced no small difficulty in procuring seats. While waiting, I had leisure to take a survey of the company; among whom, my at tention was particularly directed to the famous Abdallah Menou, who sat near the president's chair. In the fat stupidity of this warrior's countenance, I thought I could discern a sufficient cause for the expulsion of the French from Egypt. Whilst meditating on the wonderful scenes which the army of Egypt had witnessed, the members of the Institute entered the hall. Their costume was very odd. It consisted of a dark green coat, richly embroidered with light green lace, a yellow waistcoat and green breeches. This attire gave them the appearance of a company of old English butlers. The president having opened the sitting by a short speech, the celebrated Lalande mounted the tribune, and read a memoir of astronomical observations, which, though I am morally certain not one of his auditors understood, was received with thundering plaudits. He was succeeded by other Savans, who read papers like so many schoolboys. So rapid and indistinct was their pronunciation, that I found myself incapable of following the thread of their discourses, and their enunciation so monotonous, that it lulled me into a gentle slumber, which was only interrupted by the applauses that followed the termination of each memoir. In short, I found the proceedings of the National Institute as tedious as those of the Royal Society of London; and I was heartily glad to escape from an assembly which, in my opinion, was chargeable with a profuse waste of time. For

what benefit can be derived from the hearing of mathematical calculations, the detail of chemical experiments, and a long series of profound argumentation, the comprehension of which can only be the result of patient study in the retirement of the closet? The wight who can satisfactorily decide, whether it is more irksome to listen to an incomprehensible oration, or to harangue a listless and inattentive multitude, may solve the question, whether the orators or the auditors of the abovementioned learned bodies, are doomed to the most disagreeable task? p. 100-102.

No other passage in the first tour needs detain us, except the description of the exquisite English garden at the Petit Trianon, the favourite retreat of the late unfortunate Queen. The sketch is very short; and we transcribe it willingly.

The Jardin Anglois is laid out with exquisite taste. Here we passed through shady walks, which wind about gentle declivities, till we reached a grotto, from which a subterraneous passage conducted us to the top of an artificial mount. Descending from this, we pursued the course of a narrow streamlet, till we arrived at the Hameau, which consists of a farm-house, a mill and a church, all constructed in the true style of elegant rusticity, enveloped in trees, and almost covered with ivy, vines, woodbines, and other species of parasitic plants. Before the Hameau is a pool of water, fringed with reeds and bulrushes. Beyond is a gentle sloping lawn; and the view is terminated by trees, which conceal the winding walks. What must have been the sensations of the late owner of this retreat, when she contrasted the voluptuous days which she had spent in its seductive seclusion, with the terrifying altitude of the temple, and the fetid dungeon of the Bicêtre? Evils are certainly heightened by contrast! and though a King is but a man, and a Queen a woman, yet the woes of Royalty must be attended with an anguish peculiar to themselves. The pleasure which I experienced in contemplating the delicious scenery of the Petit Trianon, was intermixed with serious reflections. I left its shade, however, with reluctance.' p. 112, 113.

Mr Shepherd's second visit to Paris was principally undertaken with the same views as the former; but one very prominent feature of interest, of course, consists in the change that had recently taken place; and accordingly, the parts of the narrative which excite the greatest interest, are those which record the traveller's remarks upon the dispositions of the people towards their new government, and their feelings with respect to the master whom they had so recently gotten rid of. The candour and impartiality of the author's observations, upon this delicate topic, are extremely satisfactory. The general result is certainly what might have been predicted ;-that the majority of the people are decidedly against Bonaparte, and friendly, though not very zealously so, to the government which has put an end to his tyranny ;-that the majority of the army have a leaning

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