to be protected against the water-gnats, troublesome little insects with a long sting, the wound of which is very painful, I sleep at night, lulled by the howling jackals, in the open air on the platform of the house. Bathing in the Indus is not refreshing, the warmth of the water being 70°, and it is besides dangerous to Europeans on account of the alligators. Colonel

Booth, who is passionately fond of swimming, plunges, notwithstanding, every morning into the waves, surrounded by a crowd of his servants, who, by their cries and shouts, keep these animals at bay. At the hour of noon when all is quiet on the river, the alligators come to the surface to bask in the sun, and we take advantage of this moment to fire upon them. Sometimes we amuse ourselves with the Pula fisheries of the Meannees.

The fisherman first of all lays a large, oval, iron vessel in the river, commends himself to the protection of Allah, and places himself on it in such a manner that his body covers the opening at the top; he then by the aid of his hands and feet works his

way on the stream. He carries in his girdle a small spear, and in his right hand a fork nearly fifteen feet long, to which a wide net with a running knot is fastened, and which closes as soon as the fish is caught: the fish is then killed with the spear and thrown into the vessel. We likewise saw some fishermen with a large net thrown over their left shoulder. Before the Meannee goes into the river, he will wander for miles along the banks, and then let himself be driven by the current, because the Pula swims against it.

Excursions on the Indus in the cool of the evening are very delightful, for in no country are the mornings and evenings so pleasant, or the sunsets so beautiful and sublime, as here. Captain Nott sends me his boat daily, and I need not say that I diligently avail myself of his kindness. One evening when the sun was setting behind dark thunder-clouds, and flashes of lightning illumined the landscape on every side, we visited the Island of Tombs. These monuments, which are supposed to be 800 years old, are under the charge of fakirs. When they saw us approach they lighted the lamps in the dirty sanctuary, but were very much displeased that we contented ourselves with looking at them from the entrance, and did not make them any present. "You will split upon the rocks," cried they menacingly. We smiled at their prophecy, and proceeded to the seven sepulchral towers, built of coloured porcelain tiles. Here, under the shade of poplar-fig and tamarind trees, are said to repose seven daughters of one of the ancient princes, who are regarded as saints, on account of their beauty and virtues; indeed they are so venerated that the Indians affirm that even the fish, as they swim past the spot, invariably turn their heads, and never their tail towards

them. Next to these tombs, the lofty vaulted sepulchre, situated at the entrance of the old town, in which the sister of the saint at Sehwan is buried, is the most remarkable. Small bells, feathers, and ribbons, deck the gaily-painted sarcophagus or tombstone. Several persons were praying before it as I entered, and in the piazzas of the court-yard, children, under the direction of a priest, were singing religious songs. An uncommonly large tiger is maintained here by the people in honour of the saint.

Three days before my departure, Sir Charles Napier arrived, not indeed recovered from the effects of his accident, but with the prospect of being so very shortly. He gave me no hopes of witnessing here any military events; and likewise doubted whether any thing decisive would take place on the Sutlej, though he thought it more probable, and advised me to proceed thither. The people in the country are persuaded that the assembling of the army of reserve, is intended for the occupation of the Punjab, and whatever a man wishes, that he hopes to see realised. Thus, encouraged by a letter from the Governor-General Lord Ellenborough, and by the advice of my friends, I have resolved to join the officers, who are ordered to the army in that quarter. Three of my companions proceed to Bhawulpoor by water. Lord Altamont, Captains West and Bennett, and myself, prefer going by land.

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LETTER IV.

TO ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT.

Preparations for the journey to Ferozpoor.- Departure for Roree. Ruins of Allore.- Wedding fête near Sangeram.March through the desert.— Celebration of the 15th October in the village of Retee.- Passing the boundary of Bhawulpoor. - Ahmedpoor. — Hospitality of the inhabitants. Khaunpoor. Welcome of the Khan by an Entry into Ahmedpoor.- Audience of Bhawulkhan at his country-seat in the desert.- Bhawulpoor.- Journey to Memdot.-The Khan of Memdot.-Dangerous illness of one of our party. — Arrival at Ferozpoor.

escort.

Ferozpoor, November 13. 1842. I ARRIVED here safely yesterday at sunrise; and make use of this day to describe to you my fatiguing, but most interesting journey of 440 miles.

Our little caravan consisted of twenty-four camels, five horses, twenty-eight servants, one camel-leader, four camel-drivers, and an escort of one subaltern officer and twelve sepoys. Each of my companions had a large tent; I had only two small ones, such as are used by the servants. We had to pay forty rupees for the hire of each camel, by which we are relieved from all care, because it too often happens that the drivers neglect the animals, or that they are stolen. The British authorities at Sukkur had given us an open Perwannah *, bearing the official seal, and

* Notice is hereby given to the chiefs of the towns and the guards along the river, from Sukkur to Ferozpoor, that four

two Belooches to the frontiers of Bhawulpoor. On the morning of the 9th of October, our camels, horses, and effects were sent across the river Roree, and in the afternoon we went thither ourselves in a gondola. Our arrangement is always to send on two tents, with the culinary department, and an escort, under Werner's superintendence, to the new station, on the preceding evening, so that, on our arrival, we may have protection against the sun, and find breakfast ready. We encamped here for the night, by the side of a brick wall, under tamarinds and acacias: the owner of the camels took leave of us, cordially shaking hands, commending us and his camels to the protection of Rama.

The manner in which the European is obliged to travel in India very much resembles a nomadic life. As the climate does not allow him to expose himself to the sun by day, or to the open air by night, and as he cannot find in the villages either a lodging or the necessaries of life to which he has been accustomed, he must carry every thing with him. Even our caravan, though we were but a small party, looked like a little wandering village. The time of our setting out, was regulated according to the distance we had to go. As soon as the signal was given every thing was made ready for the journey; the tents packedup; the confused talking of the people, and the moaning of the camels, announced the moment

English gentlemen of rank are going by the high road from this place to Ferozpoor. It is expected that no one will molest them, but, on the contrary, to the utmost of their power, to provide for their progress, convenience, and security, and will most strictly conform to this order. Dated Sukkur, October 7. In the our Lord Jesus Christ 1842.

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