time amongst the earth, as it ought not to adhere together in lumps, which would not allow the young plants space enough to form their roots. There will be found but few double flowers amongst the seedlings, nor can it hardly ever be expected there should, if the seed be entirely saved from single ones; of course, the greater number of broad petals the flower of the seed-bearer possesses, so much greater is the probability of procuring large double flowers from the seed of it." By dividing the Root. When the division is properly made, every piece will blow the first year, and is therefore to be treated in the same way as such as are full grown. Choice of full-grown Roots. Select fresh plump roots of moderate size; large overgrown roots, which are hollow in the centre, and often decayed; these are to be avoided as they never blow strong. Soil and Situation, and Preparation of the Bed. The same as for the ranunculus. Planting and future Culture. The distance between the roots may be the same as for the ranunculus. Attend to place that side of the roots next the soil in which the decayed rudiments of small thread-like fibres will be observed, and cover about two inches deep. "Anemones are hardier than ranunculuses, and, consequently, may be always planted in the autumn with safety; the most advisable time is about the middle of October, by which means they will blow a week or two earlier than the tulips: if they are planted ten days or a fortnight after the tulips, they will all bloom together; but a few days earlier or later in the planting will scarcely be perceptible at the time of flowering it is, however, proper to observe, that such roots as are planted in October, will blow stronger, and, when taken up, will be found of a larger size than those that are planted towards the end of November, especially if the winter proves mild; but if the winter sets in early, and proves severe, late-planted roots will not have time to vegetate before frosty weather takes place; in which case there will be great danger of their perishing, unless they are covered with straw, just sufficiently to keep frost from the roots, as they are then in a state of inactivity, but replete with moisture, which renders them more susceptible of injury from frost, and, at the same time, in much greater danger of mouldiness than after vegetation has commenced. covering must therefore be taken off and put on, as often, and in such proportion, as the exigency or circumstance of the case requires." Water and protect from high winds and heavy rains, as directed for ranunculuses. The Taking up the Roots. "Anemones continue longer after bloom in a state of vegetation than ranunculuses, probably because of their greater degree of succulency; and even at the proper time to take them up, it will sometimes happen, that part of their foliage will not be entirely divested of greenness and moisture; this will often be the case when frequent showers of rain intervene, and are admitted between the times of blowing and the maturity of the roots: when it thus happens much skill is required to ascertain the critical period to take up the roots; for if they are suffered to remain in the damp or wet ground a few days too long, they will shoot afresh, and be thereby materially weakened and injured; it is, indeed, better to take them up rather too early, than suffer them to re-vegetate in this manner; but the roots will not be so firm and solid as if done at the exact time. The safest and most effectual method to preserve them from these disagreeable consequences, is to keep off all rains after the bloom is quite over, by means of mats on hoops; the roots will then regularly and gradually mature, and the foliage will, in like manner, become brown and dry, which will point out the true time to take up the roots; and this will usually happen to be about a month after full bloom. "The whole subsequent treatment of the roots, till the time for planting, is the same as for ranunculuses, with only the following caution, viz. that as the roots are exceedingly brittle, it is necessary to handle them very gently upon dressing or cleaning away their fibres, and the soil that adheres to them; however, should only small pieces break off, such should not be thrown away, as each will, in the course of a few years, become a blooming root, if it has an eye, without which it is of no value; but that seldom happens to be the case." Maddock. Anemones may be forced, like the ranunculus, but, as it generally destroys the roots, the finest sorts should not be devoted to this purpose. SUBSECT. 5. The Crocus. Crocus, L.; Trian. Monog. L.; and Iridea, B. P. 1631. The bulb is round, solid and compressed with a netted skin, from the centre of which arise four or five grass-like leaves, and one or two flowers. Out of the centre of the tube of the flower arises a slender style, crowned by a broad flat stigma of a gold color. After the flower is past, the germ, which hitherto was seated on the bulb at the base of the tube, pushes out of the ground, and ripens its seeds; a singular economy in nature, and which occurs only in the colchicum, and a few other plants. All the known species of this genus may be considered as florists' flowers. Many botanists, indeed, consider that there is only two species, the C. vernus, or spring-blowing crocus; and the C. sativus, the saffron, or autumn crocus. It is sufficient for our purpose to observe, that all the sorts have been time out of mind, and still are, great ornaments to the garden; the spring sorts coming into flower in February and March, and the autumn sorts in September and October. The color of the spring crocus in its wild state in Switzerland, is white with a purple base; it is considered as naturalized in England, but when found wild, is almost always of a yellow color. The autumn crocus, or saffron, is also found wild in some places, and considered as naturalized; but it appears to be an African plant, and introduced originally in Edward the Third's time, which its Arabic name, sahafaran, seems to justify. Its colour is generally purple or blue, as is that of most of the autumn varieties in cultivation at present. Varieties. None of these are double. Of the spring crocus, Parkinson has enumerated twenty-seven varieties; the fundamental colours of which are blue, purple, yellow, and white. Miller recites twelve as leading sorts. Mason's catalogue for 1820 men. tions "twenty named sorts," besides the light, dark, and striped purple, cloth of gold; the Scotch crocus beautifully striped, the white, the large and small yellow, and several striped sorts. The Dutch are continually producing new varieties, as are some florists in this country, of which Haworth (Hort. Trans. i. 122.) may be cited as an instance. Of the autumn crocus, Parkinson has enumerated four; and Ray, six varieties. Miller has only four: the sweet-smelling, of a deep blue; the mountain, of a paler blue; the many-flowering, bluish; and the small flowering. Most of these varieties are now lost. Criterion of a good Crocus. Clear or brilliant colors, and each color distinctly marked and finely pencilled in the striped and variegated sorts. Propagation. By seed, for new varieties; and by off-set bulbs, for common purposes. The latter generally flower the first spring after planting, and are treated in all respects as full-grown roots. By Seed. The following directions are by Haworth. "The seeds of crocuses are best sown immediately after being gathered, in light, dry earth, in large pots, or pans, or small shallow boxes, with a sufficiency of holes and potsherds at the bottom, for the purpose of draining off with certainty, all superfluous moisture, thinly; for almost every seed will vegetate, and cover not more than half an inch with the mould. The most eligible aspect, or situation, for the seminal boxes, until the autumnal rains set in, is a moderately shady yet unsheltered one; permitting them to receive all the influence of the weather, except such heavy showers as would wash bare the seeds. As soon, however, as the autumnal rains commence, remove the boxes to a warm aspect; and protect them from all excessive rains, frosts, and snows, by the occasional shelter of a garden frame: allowing them, nevertheless, the benefit of the full air at other times, but more especially after the seminal leaf (for they have but one, being monocotyledonous plants), eager to commence the career of life, urges its fine setaceous point above the surface of the earth. This occurs sometimes about the end of the year; but oftener in earliest spring. After this, it is quite essential that they should have complete exposure to the air, even in frosty weather; screening them, however, occasionally, like early radishes, with loose straw, from other injurious effects of frost; so as to prevent their being raised out of their infantile beds by its bancful effects. "In this manner may the young crocuses be treated until the sun acquires sufficient power to dry the earth in their boxes, so as to require daily waterings. It will be then found advantageous to remove them to a cooler, but not sheltered situation, and here they may remain until their leaves die down; giving them, as just hinted, at all times, and in every situation, while their leaves are growing, such discretional rose-waterings, when the sun is not shining, as they may reasonably appear to require: but never until the earth they grow in becomes dry: nor any whatever, after their leaves begin to look yellow. After this period, it is necessary to defend them from all humidity, except dews and gentle rains, until the end of August, or beginning of September. "From weeds and from worms, from slugs and snails, it is almost needless to observe, they should constantly be kept as clear as possible. And if the surface of the earth in their boxes is occasionally stirred with the point of a knife, or fine piece of stick, it will never fail to be attended with beneficial effects, and invigorate the bulbs: operating, no doubt, as a sort of hoeing, and like that important practice, (as the writer of this paper conceives,) proving salubrious to vegetables of every denomination, not only by lightening the soil, but by admitting new accesses of atmospheric air towards their roots; and thereby facilitating, and stimulating their absorbent inspiration of its oxygen: without a due supply of which all vegetables, as well as animals, eventually become feeble and sick. If, notwithstanding the precaution of thinly sowing the seeds, the plants in any of your seminal boxes should have grown so thickly together, as to have incommoded each other, it will be desirable to have such taken up; and replanted immediately further asunder in fresh earth, and about three quarters of an inch deep. But if they are not too crowded, they will require no shifting this, their first autumn; but merely about a quarter of an inch of fresh mould sifting over them, previously stirring and cleaning the surface of the old from moss and weeds; and observing not to bury the young bulbs, not yet so large as lentils, deeper than three quarters of an inch, or an inch at the most. "The second season requires exactly the same management as the first. But as soon as their second year's foliage has passed away, the roots should all be taken up, and replanted again the same or following day, into fresh earth, of the same kind as before, about an inch deep, and as much apart, and treated as above. "Nor does the third season demand any alteration in their management, sifting over them in autumn half an inch of fresh earth. "The spring following, if they have been duly attended to, most of them will show flowers (a few, perhaps, having done so the season before) in the midst of their fourth crop of leaves; fully rewarding with the cheering colors of their new faces all the preceding assiduity and care." Hort. Trans. i. 125. Choice of Bulbs. Observe that the base is not mouldy, nor the bud or summit of the bulb decayed. Soil, Situation, and Culture. They will grow in any common soil, but prefer a loamy sand. October is the best season for planting; the more select varieties are grown in beds like the hyacinth, and the colors mingled in the same manner; the distance from bulb to bulb about three inches. The more ordinary sorts are grown as borderflowers, and form an important part of the early flowers of the front row (fig. 402. a). They are very hardy, and require no care till the leaves begin to fade, when they should be taken up, and kept in a state of rest for two or three months. Some do not take 1 them up oftener than once in three years, which answers very well for the border sorts. Even these, however, should not be left longer, because, as the young bulbs are formed on the tops of the others, they come nearer to the surface every year, till at last, if neglected, they are thrown out and lost. SUBSECT. 6. The Narcissus. Narcissus, L.; Hex. Monog. L.; and Amaryllidea, B. P. Narcisse, Fr. and Ger. ; and Narcisso, Ital. .; 1632. The bulb is pear-shaped and tunicated, the leaves succulent and linear, and the flower-stems, which are from six to eighteen inches in height, bear either solitary or fasciculated flowers; the color of the flower is either white or yellow, and generally highly odoriferous. Most of the species are natives of the south of Europe, but one, the N. Pseudo-Narcissus, is a native of England, and common in woods in clayey soils. They come into flower in February, March, and April. Species and Varieties. The popular division of this genus is into daffodils, white narcissi, jonquils, and polyanthus narcissi. The Daffodils are, N. pseudo Narcissus (Eng. Bot. 17.), of which the varieties are the common double, the double with white petals and a yellow cup; the single with yellow petals and a golden cup; three or four concentric cups; Tradescant's daffodil and above a dozen other nameless varieties; the peerless, or two-flowered daffodil, N. biflorus, (Eng. Bot. 276), and a variety N. b. a. tenuior with one flower only on the scape; the two-colored daffodil, N. bicolor, (Bot. Mag. 1187.), a native of Spain, and a variety of the The Jonquils are, the commen, N. Je quilla, Bot. Mag. 15.), so named from its rush or jone-like leaves; the doubleflowered jonquil; the sweet-scented jonquil, A, lorus, (Bot. Mag. 934. the great jonquil, N. calatkimus, (Bd. Mag. 78.), and some minor varieties. The Polyan hus Narcissi are the comon N. tazzetta, (Bol. Mag. 925.); the sulphur-colored, single and double, the white and yellow, single and double; and above a hundred other sorts, with arbitrary names given by the Dutch, who have highly improved this division of the genus. Some of these sorts are considered species by botanists. Criterion of a good Narcissus. Strong erect stems; regularity of form and disposition in the petals and nectars; distinctness and clearness of color; and in the many-flowered sorts, the peduncles all of the same length, and coming into flower at once. Propagation. By seed for new varieties, but generally by offsets, which, as they seldom flower the first year after separation, should not be planted with the full-grown roots, but in a bed of light loamy soil by themselves in the reserve-garden. They should not be planted later than the beginning of September. By Seed. Miller directs to sow in flat pans, filled with fresh, light, sandy earth, about the beginning of August, soon after the seed is ripe; to place the pans where they will receive only the morning sun till October. Then expose them to the full sun, and protect them from heavy rains and frosts till April, when they will have come up, and must be removed to their first situation. In June, the leaves will have decayed, when some fresh earth is to be shifted over the surface of the pans. Treat them in other respects during the second winter as during the first. The end of the second summer after sowing, the roots are to be taken up and planted at about three inches' distance every way, in beds raised and rounded to throw off the water. These beds are to be protected in winter by old tan ashes or haulm. After remaining two years in this situation, they are to be taken up and planted in others, dug deep, and with a little rotten cow-dung buried in the bottom for the fibres to strike into. Here the roots are to be planted at six inches' distance, having earth sifted over them when the leaves decay, and tan or ashes in winter. The second season of their growth in this bed, that is, the fifth from sowing, most of the bulbs will come into flower. Such as are esteemed good flowers may be taken up and treated as full-grown bulbs; but those which have not flowered, or of which the flowers are of doubtful excellence, may remain another Miller says, none should be rejected till they have flowered two or three times: as it often happens, that their first blowing is not near so beautiful as their second and third. year. Choice of full-grown Bulbs. Select such as are rounded towards the base rather than compressed, with full sound tops, and bottoms free from mouldiness or decayed fibres. Soil, Situation, and Planting. An eastern aspect is to be preferred; and, according to Miller, the best soil is fresh light, hazel loam, mixed with a little very rotten cowdung. The bed in which they are to be planted must be excavated three feet deep, and filled with this compost, and then the roots planted on it about eight inches' distance every way, and covered from six to eight inches, in the manner directed for tulips. The best time for planting is August, or the beginning of September. Culture. Stirring the soil, weeding and watering are all that is in general required: but such as wish to produce a very perfect show of flowers, shelter with an awning in the manner recommended for hyacinths. In winter, the beds require the protection of tan or litter, which should be put on in October or November, and removed, and the soil stirred in February or March. Where the narcissi are cultivated for commercial purposes, the strength of the bulb is greatly increased by cutting off the flower-stem when the flowers begin to expand. The flower is still valuable, being expanded till in a marketable state by inserting the stalk in water. "Some years ago I gained admit tance into the grounds of Daniel Carter, at Fulham, who has long cultivated large quantities of polyanthus narcissuses for sale, and was surprised to find all the crop nearly gathered, though very early in the season. His son, however, explained the mystery, by taking me into a large barn, which was filled with the gathered flowers, blowing in pans of water; and he told me that by doing this, the bulbs continued to produce as abundant crops every year, as new ones imported from Holland. The practice was suggested to him by remarking, that in a bed left for seed one year, very few roots sent up a complete bunch of flowers the following season, and many roots none at all. He therefore now cuts off the stalk close to the ground, as soon as two or three of the flowers are expanded, but is very careful not to injure the leaves." Hort. Trans. i. 362. Taking up the Bulbs. The bulbs should not be taken up oftener than every third year, if they are expected to flower strong and make a great increase. If they remain longer than three years, the offsets will become so numerous as to weaken the bulbs, which will at first flower weakly, and in time cease almost entirely to show flowers. The Dutch take up these roots every year, because their object is to furnish a round, plump root, and the way to accomplish this is to take off the offsets annually, to prevent their pressing against and flattening the parent bulb. The bulbs being dried in the shade, may be laid in an airy situation in the seed-loft till wanted for planting. Forcing. These bulbs force well, and either in deep pots of sandy loam, or in waterglasses; their previous treatment is the same as we have prescribed for the hyacinth; and they are highly odoriferous and ornamental in apartments. SUBSECT. 7. The Iris. - Iris, L.; Trian. Monog. L. and Iridea, B. P. L'Iris, Fr.; Schwertlilie, Ger.; and Iride, Ital. (Figs. 444. and 445.) 1633. There are several species of this genus, which are considered florists' flowers. The Persian Iris, 1. Persica, (Bot. Mag., and our fig.444. a), a very low bulbous rooted plant, with delicate blue and violet-colored flowers, greatly esteemed for their beauty and sweet smell, which is so powerful that one plant will scent a whole room. It is a native of Persia, and was cultivated by Parkinson in 1629. The bulbs are ge nerally imported from Holland, and blown in water-glasses, or pots of sand with very little earth intermixed, in February and March. The Snake's-head Iris, I. tuberosa, (Bot. Mag. 531. and fig. 444. b), has long narrow four-cornered leaves, and a dark purple flower, which appears in April. It is a native of the Levant, and was cultivated in 1597. The tubers are The bulbous-rooted, or Spanish Iris, I. wild plant are blue, with emarginate petals, and appear in June; but cultivation has produced a great number of varieties with yellow, white, violet, and variegated flowers. It is a native of the south of Europe, and was cultivated by Gerarde in 1596. The Great bulbous-rooted Iris, the English Iris of the Dutch, I. ziphioides (Bot. Mag. 687, and fig. 56. b), is much larger than the other in all its parts, the flower-stalk is near twice the height, and the flowers are more than double the size. It is equally prolific in varieties as Iriphium, of which it is by some botanists considered only a variety. The tubers of both sorts are annually imported from Holland. Culture of the first three Species. These seldom ripen their seeds in this country, nor are they often propagated here from offsets, annual supplies of bulbs being obtained from Holland, and generally forced iike the hyacinth. Justice says (Brit. Gard. Direct. 222.), the Dutch florists told him, that they never could obtain any varieties from sowing the seeds of the Persian iris; nor could this author himself, who cultivated the plant, and raised seedlings at Crichton, near Edinburgh, with great care and considerable success. The three sorts are best cultivated under the protection of a frame, where their flowers will be less liable to injury than in the open air, and where their leaves will be stronger and more able to nourish the bulbs and offsets. The Chalcedonian iris, Curtis observes, thrives best in a loamy soil and sunny exposure, with a pure air, but guarded from moisture, and from frosts during winter. The Persian iris thrives best in a light |